ann i patti – jedno prijateljstvo

http://modagid.ru/files/photos/imgs/48/48939/large_ann-demeulemeester-patti-smith1.jpg?1347362602

prijateljice, saradnice, srodne duse… njihovi rođendani su udaljeni samo jedan dan (patti smith ima rođendan 30. deecmbra, a ann 29.) ann je sa 16 godina prvi puta slušala “horses“… na brojnim njenim revijama patti je prisutna ili kao inspiracija ili samo sa svojom muzikom kao zvučnom kulisom.

http://www.anndemeulemeester.be/assets/chronology/1999-woolgathering.jpg

 

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demeulemeester’s spring summer 2000 collection ‘woolgathering’ takes its name from a short autobiographical book published by smith in 1992

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http://guestofaguest.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/230876-patti-smith-et-ann-demeulemeester-lors-637x0-4.jpg

“patti has always been part of my universe,” demeulemeester has said, “but i don’t want to vulgarise our contact, which is really magical and beautiful. it’s almost sacred to me, which is why i never talk about it in the press. please don’t reduce our friendship to a trouser or a skirt.” (oyster magazine)

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ann demeulemeester spring/summer 2007

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“happy rimbaud’s birthday,” patti smith said to a scrum of journalists, as she walked into her exhibition at the Wadsworth Atheneum, in hartford, connecticut, yesterday. the french poet arthur rimbaud would have been 157. ms. smith has been celebrating the day for 47 years.

she was wearing black glasses, black shoes and a long black jacket, which was designed by a friend, the belgian fashion designer ann demeulemeester, she said, pointing to her in two of the tiny black-and-white photographs that lined the galleries.

nearby was a long replica of the wooden litter that once carried rimbaud, stricken with gangrene in one of his legs, down a mountain in ethiopia and hundreds of miles to a boat bound for marseilles, france, where he sought a doctor.

ann’s such an angel,” the singer said, “and it’s nice for arthur to have a guardian angel.” (by andrew russeth, 

http://cdn.cover.dk/wp-content/uploads/sites/4/2013/12/patti-in-ann-by-annie.jpg

photo by annie leibowitz

http://wildsidefashion.files.wordpress.com/2014/04/42cae-patti-demeulemeester.jpg?w=500

http://www.wmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/blog-patti-smith-book-reading.jpg

 

http://www.culturesinbetween.net/uploads/ann-demeu.jpg

ann  photo by willy vanderperre

 “good fashion is like rock music: all anarchy and revolt.”, ann 1997.

 

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rodjen u julu

tatsuro horikawa

photography: louis lau

http://www.julius-garden.jp

ključne reči:

- zen budizam

- crno, najdublje crno

- punk i hard core muzika

- tibet (boravio jedno vreme u budističkom manastiru na tibetu)

- afrika

- tattoo

- minimalizam

- androgino

Julius FW2013 presentation invitation <br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />
Stealth” /></p>
<blockquote><p><em><a href=tatsuro took the ‘illegal’ trip of crossing the border between china and tibet in order to spend two weeks in a buddhist monastery, where amongst spiritual teachings, he learned over 200 ways to fold robes. not only did this introduce the “blood red” colour way into collections, it gave a new dimension and deeper sentiment to a brand which sees itself as “contributing to a person’s total life-style” – giving valid reason for the rugged way in which it views the world. 2008 saw the brand make its debut in paris, the ideal setting for the avant-garde style which tatsuro describes as “the tailoring of a vampiric dandy and the draping and simplicity of a monk”

(odavde)

tatsuro horikawa

iz intervjua za hypebeast (31. januar 2011. interview: edward chiu, text: eugene kan, photography: louis lau)

from the start of your career, you’ve always been working and experimenting with the different depths of black. why are you so fascinated with this particular tone?

to be honest, apart from black, i’ve never worn any other colors in my adulthood. black has a lot of meaning in life. for example in the city, black can be worn in a lot of scenarios. you can see it as a pure color as one can wear it in any situation.

is the concept of zen a crucial element to your work?

definitely. the idea of zen and its sculptural and architectural influences have made a huge impact in my work and lifestyle. yin and yang is also of huge importance to me. on one hand, zen represents an important part of my life and on the other hand punk and hardcore music also have their place. both are extreme opposites but yet they come together in harmony in my work. this shop was also created to reflect the idea of zen, but together there are punk elements within the space.

how do you see designers such as yohji yamamoto, who is also inspired by zen?

i very much admire yohji san and also rei kawakubo of COMME des GARCONS. both have had huge impacts to the fashion industry and also changed the way we see fashion today.

what is the perfect tone of black?

the perfect black is the deepest black. a black that has depth and nuances.

 

 

ma_julius unisex concept. spring / summer 2013, blackparadox.us

 

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lumen et umbra

“lumen et umbra” je naziv koji me je odmah zaintrigirao. na latinskom znači “svetlost i senka” i već to  da je neko svoj brand tako nazvao zvuči dovoljno primamljivo i govori  o njemu (nomen est omen)… a tek činjenica da je čovek koji stoji iza tako dobro odabranog imena japanac koji stvara u italiji (selo u okolini rima) okružen majstorima svog zanata…zvuči  kao susret zena i strasti. i to  da  taj japanac issei fujita koji odiše jednostavnošću je ranije radio u  fenomenalnom “carpe diem”… i da na sajtu “lumen et umbra” stoji ovo:

“where the light brightest, the shadows are deepest.”

 johann wolfgang von goethe

 light and shadow, life and destruction, knowledge and ignorance, silence and sound. the universe changes, following the continuous alternation of opposites, in a perpetual mutation going from one state to another, acquiring at every time more complex features.

but it’s in the coincidence of opposites of the ineffable infinity that the secret essence of things is reveiled.

 

i ja sam kupljena!!! a kako issei fujita stvara? dobro poznavanje zanatskog dela posla plus zadivljujuća kreativnost, senzualnost i touch vizuelne umetnosti koja je ravnopravan deo svake njegove kolekcije. rad sa prirodnim materijalima, sa posebnim naglaskom na one materijale i tehnologije koje su u 21. veku gotovo zaboravljeni. i svetlo! i senke. kao da su izašli iz filma “the vertical ray of the sun”  koji je režirao trần anh hùng.

“lumen et umbra” osnovan je 2006. rad issei fujite usmeren je na igru svetlosti i senke i u video radovima, i na fotografijama koje pravi, ali i na samim materijalima… eksperimentiše sa materijalima, hemikalijama i tehnologijama ne bi li dobio to reflektovanje svetlosti, ples svetla i senke… čudesno! konoplja, materijali od kojih se prave užad, ribarske mreže, pamuk, vuna,  kašmir pomešani sa česticama metala, ugljenika… stare zanatske tajne i nove tehnologije. snažno i krhko.  yin i yang. svetlo i senka…

 

 issei fujita u šangaju u poseti eth0s-u

2. aprila 2012. na univerzitetu u bolonji (zona moda, rimini),  održan je seminar posvećen ovoj dvojici verovatno najinventivnijih mladih dizajnera, borisu bidjan saberiju i issei fujiti “THE SAMURAI AND THE WARRIOR”. fujita je predstavljen kao samuraj, a bidjan kao ratnik. organizator je bio profesor fabriano fabbri.

totally uncommon for the contents and for the importance of the contributors, the event qualifies
itself as a moment of reflection deeply zoomed on nowadays subjects, with protagonists two of the
most innovative fashion designers in the international scene: the japanese issei fujita, brilliant
creative mind of lumen et umbra, and boris bidjan saberi, edgy revelation of parisian runways.
on the wake of the best japanese tradition, fujita evokes the strength of matter, working on live,
organic fabrics, ready to express the energies of zen cultures through the mastering of “lights and
shadows”, as the name of the brand goes. saberi combines the tones of the post-apocalyptic
fashion with a mood balancing between the west and the middle-east, enriched though with
suggestions of media products, such as movies, music, videogames, manifested in an incredible
modulation of volumes.

program, sequence and titles
speeches (part I)
h 9,30
paolo ferrarini (future concept lab) _ postatomic post
h 9.50
eva grippa (la repubblica) _ j-pop and industrial imagination
h 10.10
lumen et umbra _ the samurai
10.50 coffee break
speeches (part II)
h 11,10
gianluca vitiello (radio deejay) _ music, street e view: fashion between urban languages and
metropolitan trends
h 11.30
fabriano fabbri (university of bologna) _ from wabi-sabi to wabi-cyber
h 11.50
boris bidjan saberi _ the warrior

http://www.lumenetumbra.biz

since years we have been hearing talking about “concept”, they all have a “concept”, we do not work on a concept but about on and about ourselves. our life is our concept. (issei fujita za le paradox)

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tim walker story teller

cess-tilda-swinton-tim-walker-las-pozas-02-rick-owens

tim walker, tilda swinton & rick owens, w magazine

vogue uk, december 2011, tim walker, mongolia

lady gray, tim walker, vogue italia, march, 2010

lady grey

vogue italia march 2011 , dreaming of another world

like a warrior, vohie italia, march 2014

dress lamp tree, vogue l’uomo, 2012 /haljine koje rastu na drvecu… zenski san

the lost explorer, 2010, rediteljski debi tim walkera

i think that the lost explorer is all about film – moving film. as a photographer i think that the two meaningful books are pictures and story teller. but then, as a filmmaker, there’s a totally different process because you’re working with a complete story. when you work as a photographer you’re working more with a mood and with a suggestion of something that enables the viewer to be able to put themselves in to the picture and imagine themselves in that situation: that’s what i think the human element in still photography is. with film you have to be a storyteller and not stray from the story; you have to be very, very specific – that’s what that film was about. (tim walker)

njegova knjiga storyteller

tim walker (1970) ključne reči:

- magično

- bajkovito

- nadrealno

- duhovito

- razigrano

- autentično

- neobično

- bizarno

- čudesno

- strastveno

- pomaknuto

- drugačije

 

vogue italia, october 2011, mechanical dolls

tim walker – floating drive in, florida, 2005

i find the word ‘art’ a little bit self-congratulatory and i find it uncomfortable: i’m a photographer. art isn’t decided at the moment it’s made – a lot of people would disagree with me, but i think time decides what art is. the most unlikely things become art. for me to say, ‘this is art photography,’ i’m just not that sort of person; this is photography, this is me playing with a camera. call it what you will but i would call it photography.

everyone’s talking about things as art and i think time decides. so I can’t answer that – i think time answers that, or we’ll answer that in the passage of time. i think some photographers have become art, someone like dianne arbus, because time has passed and there’s an emotion she’s captured as a photographer. you can call her a photographer but you can also call her an artist. but she would never have called herself an artist. avedon would never have called himself an artist. (tim walker)

cecil beaton, njegov uzor

marilyn monroe, photo by cecil beaton

tim walker, portrait by alison tanner

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issey miyake čovek koji je preživeo atomsku bombu

issey miyake ( 22. april 1938. hiroshima)

- atomska bomba (izgubio gotovo celu porodicu). o tome nerado priča

- godfather japanske mode

- minimalizam

- origamiji

- nabori koji plešu oko tela

- balet

- inovacije

- eksperimentisanje sa materijalima…

“i’m fascinated by all fields of design, design as an approach to society, people, life. even if it looks like what i have done has become fashionable, fashion to me is like the wind, i like to stay constant. i put my mind to making a product that people enjoy.”

i’m not sure whether this concept is in fact “oriental. what i mean is that from ancient times, in greece or in africa, every culture has started [making clothes] from a single piece of cloth, or skin,and even now, in india,a single piece of cloth is simply wound round the body.one of these “pieces of cloth” is the kimono,which has been highly refined. one aspect of the kimono is that, in a way, it’s extremely sensible. then there’s cloth, the human body,and the motion of the two. from having been developed for so long,the kimono has come to be identified withthe phrase “a piece of cloth.”but in relation to the concept of “a piece of cloth,”design is what i want to focus on long term,and something i want to develop overas long a period as possible.when i grow weary with where i’m going,or when i stumble, i’ll return to the theme of “a piece of cloth.”i feel happy about that because it gives meanother direction to go in. i think there’s a differencebetween an individual point of viewand what can be achievedwhen we talk to designers or others. in the 20th century we became used to the idea of scientificand commercial developments shrinking our worldand giving us conveniences like the internetand car, which we take entirely for granted. but i have the feeling thatthey could do us a tremendous amount of harm, too. so, design work should certainlynot be a matter of designing something,turning it into a product,then simply introducing changes and modifications. a new approach will be the basis of design in the future, i think. we must think more aboutsociety, living, and enjoyment or happiness. otherwise, our work will become extremely difficult. another thing is that the 20th centurywas an era where everybody was very fond of categorizing things.we’ve been gradually breaking down those categories,and in my opinion it’s essential for different kinds of people get together to work, and for people sharing the same world to think and talk to one another about a variety of things. (messages from issey miyake, the laureate of 2006 kyoto prize , arts and philosophy)

hiroshima mon amour, 1959,  alain resnais & marguerite duras

issey miyake permanent, 1986 , model ellen van schylenburch (contemporary dancer)
phptograph by snowden, camera press london 

photo by irving penn, vogue, october 1988.

“i don’t make gorgeous clothes, i don’t believe in them.”  (miyake)

“i  have never called myself a fashion designer” (issey miyake)

artemide

 

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dream baby dream or brutal romance of human nature

svoju kolekciju za jesen 2014 yang li je nazvao dreamer. kaže da želi da ljudi veruju da je sve moguće. kao muzičku podlogu koristi springsteenovu stvar dram baby dream… dizajnira za samopouzdane, a emotivne žene. i muškarce koji se ne plaše da rame uz rame koračaju sa takvim ženama. za ljude koji imaju san. za individualce.

rođen u pekingu,, odrastao u australiji, školovao se i živi u engleskoj,  lansiran u modnu orbitu iz pariza, radi po celom svetu… bivši skater i košarkaš, emotivni panker… sve to se oseća u njegovim modelima. i azijski i zapadni uticaj. i estetizovani istočnjački minimalizam i snažni urbani touch zapada.

 “yes: i am a dreamer. for a dreamer is one who can only find his way by moonlight, and his punishment is that he sees the dawn before the rest of the world.” – oscar wilde

DSC_6214

sa  journal antonioli

yang li spring 2014

u ekskluzivnom intervjuu za journal.antonioli rekao je:

what was your first fashion memory, and how fashion entered your life?

brutal romance of human nature.

where do you catch your inspiration from? and in particular what’s the main inspiration behind this spring/summer 2014 collection?

an intimate dedication for the women surrounding yang li’s world. all of whom are responsible for inspiring his work and life. in a seductive expression of modernity, attitudes of street and skate culture break couture atmospheres. the precious is questioned, then exalted.

 do you have any muse, a kind of woman/man you take inspiration from and whom you design for?

somebody with a story and a dream.

 

the dreamers, bernardo bertolucci

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all we see and seem is but a dream within a dream

zephyrance lou, zephy lou stoji iza timeless carstva “old lyric” , vintage oaze tamo negde u šangaju, na adresi: west building, 368 shaanxi nan lu. 2. sprat! ova shanghai baby (rođena 1989. u šangaju) studirala je fotografiju u londonu. poznata je po autoportretima. i po dobrom ukusu. kolekcionar je bruka lepih stvari. zamišljam kako ću jednom ući tamo i polako razgledati stvar po stvar, od yamamota do rei kawakubo… i rastopiti se od sreće, pa će me morati lečiti lekari šangajski. a kada otvorim oči ja ću tražiti da me odvedu opet tamo, u shaanxi nan lu 368.

Zephyrance Lou portrait

zephy lou, night at the museum

Zephyrance Lou portrait

zephy lou, gulliver’s travels

Zephyrance Lou portrait

extra scenes -7

serija fotografija “extra scenes” je deo njenog projekta “inspiracija u snovima”. o njima kaže:the whole project is about building a dreamy, surreal scene by compounding entities. dreaming is my muse all the time, as it contains memories, fantasies and all kinds of poetic elements.”

njena mantra je rečenica edgara allana poea: “ all we see and seem is but a dream within a dream.”

a ovo je njeno šangajsko carstvo “old lyric”:

“old lyric” ima sve te prelepe stvari iz zadnjih decenija 20. veka: ann demeulemeester, comme des garcons, helmut lang, hussein chalayan, issey miyake, jean paul gaultier, junya watanabe, kenzo, horisaki šeširi, raf simons, romeo gigli, yohji yamamoto… neki komadi stoje iza stakla, kao vredni eksponati u nekom muzeju mode. sa respektom i ljubavlju.

http://www.oldlyric.com

naći ćeš tamo i ovo npr.:

yohji yamamoto red dress from fall/winter 95

horisaki šeširi

 

old lyric je mesto za posvećene i zaljubljene u modu, definitivno.

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