photo: haider ackermann in new york, november 2010
po meni, haider ackermann je dizajner koji je sebe najbolje stilizovao. romantičarski, avangardno, stylish, nonšalantno, perfekcionistički, nomadski, mistično, poetski, divlje, smireno, dekadentno,dečački, muževno, aristokratski i klošarski… da sam muškarac volela bih tako da izgledam. zapravo i ja kao žena volela bih da nosim stvari koje on lično nosi. udobno, nabrano, sofisticirano, nemarno… sa utiskom spremnosti i za gradsku vrevu i za oluju u pustinji. za ostanak i za beg. sa osećajem slobode… razigrano…
“i wanted to give women the luxury of just letting things go, of just being free.” (haider)
rođen je 1971. u kolumbiji i već kao devetomesečna beba usvojen je od strane francuske porodice kartografa i humanitaraca koji su pre njega već usvojili jednu devojčicu iz vijetnama i dečaka iz koreje. živeli su na raznim mestima, u etiopiji, čadu, alžiru, francuskoj, holandiji… zamišljam koliko to mora da je bio šaren i uzbudljiv život… nije ni čudo što je takav kakav je… nadasve egzotičan! svoj!
u antverpenu je upisao modni dizajn na prestižnoj kraljevskoj akademiji lepih umetnosti… nije završio studije, ali se 2001. uspešno predstavio na pfw.
“my private life is not that interesting. i just want to communicate with my défilé. i like reading though i barely have time for it. let me have a cosy dinner with my friends, leave me alone. let me dream. the day when i can’t dream anymore, that’ll be the day when everything falls apart.”(haider za joyce.com)
i spent my childhood in africa and i didn’t know that you could make a living out of fashion until i was about 12. in algeria where i lived the islamic women wear a black shawl called a chador which was very mysterious to me and ultimately gave me inspiration. i would watch the women go by trying to imagine what they looked like beneath the shawl. the desire to understand what is beneath the clothing is the origin for my fashions and the reason why i became part of this world. unfortunately, no matter how much time goes by i still don’t come closer to understanding. (laugh). (haider ackermann)
haider ackermann photo mauro gonzalez
“you can only design what you know.” (haider)
i’m looking for a luxury that’s a bit négligé, that can be rich but doesn’t look rich. i would love for my clothes to be timeless, for people to build a sense of intimacy with them over time. i’ve tried over the years to tell a story, with each collection a different chapter. and you hope the reader will follow you and see where the novel’s going.(4 w magazine)
for me at the moment, a woman’s manly side is what’s sexy. and i’m not talking about androgyny. i think that a woman standing strongly, fighting to be desired, is very sexual.(w magazine)
photo giovanni giannoni
when men are being admired, when all those men are immaculate and perfectly dressed, it makes me want to be one of them. i would like to be proper dressed and i would like to be exact and sharp in my appearance. but i am not one of those men. when i dress, i want to put the garment on and everything is here with me. it’s basically a part of who i am. i’m not an anxious person. i have to feel at ease to feel comfortable. (—) when you see the violence that is going on in the world, especially nowadays when you see what is happening in tunisia and elsewhere, i think there is also a big urge for certain beauty. it puts our lives in balance. because otherwise, where would we be? it’s a gift nowadays, to escape with beauty.(haider, interview with eugene rabkin, style zeitgeist)
photo by roberto frankenberg
what’s had the greatest influence on your career?
h.a. the erect posture of an ethiopian woman whose legs were so long she reached the sun. (no rules)
photo by jerome bonnet
obrati pažnju i na soundtrack!
and sometimes when the night is slow,
the wretched and the meek,
we gather up our hearts and go,
a thousand kisses deep.
naslovna časopisa a magazin koji je haider ackermann uredio, koji je otkrio njegovu melanholičnu stranu