motion, the master, tao, dance…

“it’s about motion and action,” rekao je yohji yamamoto o svojoj kolekciji y-3 s/s16 za adidas. i: -this is life’s only constant, and i was enchanted by the beauty and simplicity of the body in motion. this was my only inspiration.

 tao te ching lao ceoov kaže:

tao te ching: chapter 29
translated by stephen mitchell (1988)

do you want to improve the world?
i don’t think it can be done. [*]

the world is sacred. [**]
it can’t be improved.
if you tamper with it, you’ll ruin it.
if you treat it like an object, you’ll lose it.

there is a time for being ahead,
a time for being behind;
a time for being in motion,
a time for being at rest;
a time for being vigorous,
a time for being exhausted;
a time for being safe,
a time for being in danger.

the master sees things as they are,
without trying to control them.
she lets them go their own way,
and resides at the center of the circle.

tao dance theater

tao dance theater i yohji yamamoto

tao ye, yohji yamamoto i duan ni (tao dance theater)

tao ye and duan ni. 2012 photo by peggy jarrell kaplan

nastup kineske trupe modernog baleta osnovane 2008. godine tao dance theater koju sačinjava na sceni obično 4,5, 6 ili 7 plesača the guardian je nazvao monohromatskim minimalizmom. ples oslonjen na tradiciju, usmeren na avangardno, novo, očišćen od suvišnog, sveden na esencijalno. očaravajuća ogoljenost koja nije laka. minimalizam svojstven i yamamotu. kostimi jednostavni, crni i beli. i hipnotišuća muzika…

a yohji… sa svoje 72 godine mlađi duhom od svih. opet. i onom prethodnom kolekcijom za muškarce na pfw, pre nekoliko dana i sa ovom sportskom kolekcijom. nisam ni očekivala da će ući u kolotečinu. nikako.

koreograf trupe je tao ye kaže o sebi.

“i move therefore i live”

duan ni and tao ye. photo: andrea mohin

Y-3 Men’s RTW Spring 2016

Y-3-mens-ss16-DOM-12

Y-3 Men’s RTW Spring 2016

Y-3 Men’s RTW Spring 2016

Y-3 Men’s RTW Spring 2016

Embedded image permalink

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Li Lam or Everything will be alright

ne znam puno o vijetnamu. ali, želim da znam. da vidim. osetim. zamišljam tu daleku zemlju baš onako kako je slika tran anh hun u svojim briljantnim, dirljivo poetičnim filmovima: the vertical ray of the sun, the scent of green papaya, cyclo…

LAM Boutique

…i onako kako ga je opisivala marguerite duras, koja je i rođena u vijetnamu (tadašnjoj francuskoj indokini)… detinjstvo je provela u sajgonu… vijetnam mora da je lep, prozračan i čist kao njene rečenice… za mene su njene knjige najmuzikalnije koje sam čitala ikada… i čujem sasvim jasno dve reči: delta mekonga. nema još puno reči koje deluju tako povodljivo na mene…

a o vijetnamskoj modi, na žalost, ne znam baš ništa. i zato me je beskrajno obradovalo kada sam po ovom toplom, jednoličnom danu kada ništa nisi u stanju da radiš otkrila ovu harizmatičnu, prelepu, vijetnamsku dizajnerku: vo thi li lam! i njen lam boutique (zapravo ih ima 2) u gradu ho chi minh … saigonu marguirite duras…

vo thi li lam

the scent of green papaya, tran anh hun, 1993.

the vertical ray of the sun, tran anh hun, 2000.

marguerite duras, the lover

“skela prelazi mekong. slika traje koliko i prelaz preko reke. imam petnaest i po godina, u tom kraju nema godišnjih doba, nalazimo se u jedinstvenom godišnjem dobu, toplom, jednoličnom, nalazimo se u dugoj toploj zoni zemlje, nema proleća, nema obnavljanja…” (ljubavnik, početak)

LAM Boutique

lam fahion show, everything will be alright – vietnam international fashion week 2014

lam = forest

photo-3-c223d.JPG

li lam

LAM Boutique

li lam 

li lam, koja mi ovde izgleda kao mlada rei kawakubo…

“so after work, can not wait for her man at home, i must always make themselves beautiful, fresh and bright to offset loneliness “. (li lam)

li lam

LAM Boutique

a sada akcentujem njene kreacije. jednostavne i lepe kao zen. kao tren… ona ne juri trendove, ona prati svoj duh. prefinjeno, suptilno, jednostavno, zanosno, polako i radosno. i sofisticirano! kaže da kada žena kupi haljinu, ne kupuje samo tekstil i dizajn, nego i radost, samopouzdanje…:

LAM Boutique

NTK Li Lam: "Đừng đánh giá sự đoan chính vì thả rông"

o li lam u parizu pročitaj ovde. i ovde. i ovde!

Lam Launches D7 Boutique

lam launches d7 boutique

li lam

li lam, fotografije mahom sa njenog fb profila

LAM Boutique

http://lamboutiquevn.com/

kavita ramdas

good night…

“majka mi ponekad kaže da nikada, dok živim, neću videti reke lepe kao što su ove, tako velike, tako divlje, mekong i njegovi rukavci što se spuštaju prema okeanima, vodene površine koje će nestati u šupljinama okeana. u ravnici, dokle oko seže, slivaju vodu kao da je zemlja nagnuta…” (marguerite duras, ljubavnik)

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jemaa / a moroccan passion

jemaa

ساحة جماع الفناء

jemaa el-fnaa

djema el-fna

marrakesh

morocco

simone

o simone manojlović sam pisala prvi put bezmalo pre godinu dana. u julu. onda je simon otišla u maroko. i donela nam  (još) jednu marokansku strast…  znaš već, veliki ysl je bio bez daha od pogleda na maroko…

pierre berge: “yves saint laurent: a moroccan passion

to je jemaa. to je taj trg!

njena najnovija kolekcija, koja će u ponedeljak (8.6.2015.) biti predstavljena na kaufland fashion week zagreb a/w 2015/2016, zove se baš kao taj trg: jemaa!

kada sam je pitala zašto, simone mi je rekla:

– jer je jemma el-fna senzacionalan! krotitelji zmija…vračare…začini…obilje boja…nebo iznad marrakesha… jasne,snažne emocije… opet boje! humanost! stvarnost!

zapitkujem je dalje: – koje boje unutar tebe, a koje spolja ti je doneo morocco?

simone:-unutrašnjost obojena crvenom,sve ostalo je morei more!!! dramatično plava i tirkizna! drugačija sam posle maroka. veliki utjecaj ljepote jedne kulture…

kako su nastajale kracije iz ove kolekcije:

– nastajale su postupno, kao preslika proživljenih doživljaja ,emocija, trenutaka…spoj tradicije i modernog.protkana elementima siromaštva, bogatstva, snage, slobode… najosobnija kolekcija do sada. kolekciju je grijala i ljubav.

šta si čitala dok si stvarala ovu kolekciju? paul bowles po čijem delu je bertolucci snimio film “čaj u sahari” je proveo deo života u maroku… william s. burroughs ga je takođe voleo i pohodio…

–  čitam svoje misli. potpuno sam posvećena radu, kreaciji i ideji. no zadnje što sam pročitala je “život nije sansalvatore quasimodo

 “plavo drveće

gdje seli najteži zvuk

i rađa se želja za novim kišama. “

kako bi jednom rečju, jednom bojom i jednim umetničkim delom morala da opišeš svoju kreaciju jemaa, šta bi odabrala?

menta!

  modra!

blue solid, anish kapoor!

anish kapoor, blue solid

simone7

simone kao sopstveni model…

photo: simone manojlović

peter orlovsky, jack kerouac & william s. burroughs (obučen) na plaži u gradu tangier, morocco,1957. photograph: allen ginsberg

the majorelle garden

jemaa

go girl!!!

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deux hommes

deux hommes je njujorški  digitalni magazin koji promoviše mlade dizajnere u usponu, one koji su u senci mainstream modnih brendova. osnivači su jared austin i carlos basora. među njihovim klijentima su i: skingraft designs, general idea, parsons mfa, barbara i gongini, strateas.carlucci, pyer moss, alexandre plohkov,  chapter, fingers crossed, dirty hands jewelry…

mene je oduševio njihov nedavni editorijal size matters. fenomenalne fotografije potpisao je bruklinski fotograf ace amir poreklom iz kolumbije. model je camilla gamallo, a stilista: jahulie elizalde. sveže, alternativno, snažno, a poetično!

Front Row at Kye

jared austin & carlos basor

 

ace amir

dakle, ovo su fotografije iz tog editorijala, a oborio me je s nogu svaki komad u njemu, počev od ove ogrlice, do onih crnih papuča/sandala collina strada:

DSC04034

DSC03979

leather trousers -collina strada, dress- de la rave, neck piece – sterling king, gloves – stylist own, shoes – schutz

DSC04222

turtle dress- big park, coat – big park, ball gown skirt – nha khanh, sandals- campet

DSC04523

top- homic, sheer top- nha khanh, pants – koonhor, shoes – collina strada, glove -carolina amatt

DSC04616

top -de la rave, skirt- sterling king, gloves – carolina amato, sandals – campet

DSC04793

dress- sterling king, fur cape – titania inglis, pants koonhor, gloves – carolina amato, sandals – camped

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chen man, east and west

all reality is a phantom, all phantoms are real.” (chen man  陳漫 , beijing, china)

chen man je fotograf, grafički dizajner i slikar. iz kine, iz pekinga. rođena 1980. u mongoliji. lepa (radi i kao model), obrazovana, uspešna, autentična i ima šta da kaže. pogledaj prvo video dole. dobro ga pogledaj:

 chen man: east-west” at l.a. louver, 2014

kada kažemo kina danas , većina nas pomisli na zemlju koja se vrtoglavo brzo i snažno otvorila prema svetu. prema materijalnom, zapadnom svetu, pre svega. i pomislimo kako više ne nose ama baš svi kinezi ista odela, ne voze bicikl, ne jedu pirinač i ne drže samo restorane i prodavnice nepotrebnih, jeftinih stvari, ako uspeju da odu iz kine. chen man je jedna od onih iz ove velike i magične zemlje koja će nas podučiti da je kina mnogo, mnogo više od ovih stereotipa. chen man o ovim našim stereotipima govori i sa ironijom i sa razumevanjem. živi između kine i usa. između istoka i zapada. između tradicije i novog. i zna, vrlo dobro zna da smo svi različiti. i da smo svi isti. i da novac ne rešava sva. nigde. pa, ni u kini. ističe da je presedan uticaj na nju imaju drevne kineske filozofije, mnogo više nego zapadna kultura i materijalizam, čiji uticaj, međutim, ne poriče. njen stil je eklektički, odražava mnoštvo uticaja pod kojima stvara i živi…

chen man je odrasla u skromnom delu pekinga, u jednoj o donih uskih, pretrpanih, sporednih ulica. već sa dve godine crtala je miševe koji su carevali po kući, a kako su roditelji zapazili da su ti crteži prilično dobri odveli su je kod jednog starog majstora tradicionalnog slikarstva da je podučava. majka je bila lekarka, a otac grafički dizajner koji je pravio revolucionarne postere ogromnih dimenzija. “new york times” je za chen rekao da je pionir vizuelne revolucije u kini. izlaže širom sveta. sarađuje sa najvećim časopisima i brendovima. i govori! ona nije nemi fotograf.

Chen Man<br><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />
12 Chinese Colors: Eosin 1, 2011<br><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />
c-print<br><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />
76 3/4 x 51 1/4 in. (195 x 130 cm)<br><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />
Edition of 7, 3 A.P.

chen man, 12 chinese colors: eosin 1, 2011

 

as nothing more than a simple person, i have no power to change the future of mankind or myself. i sincerely hope that communication between people on a spiritual level will see great developments, and not just in numbers or statistics, but something we can all see with the naked eye. not just in form either, but a true balance of idealism and materialism, and worldly recognition of the true beauty of traditional chinese life. only if the majority of people live life in this manner will the world be a beautiful and peaceful place to live, people will have clean air to breath and fresh water to drink, and mankind will be able to attain an ideal and harmonious future.  (chen man, interview)

 

Чен Ман Лонг Ливе Домовина

chen man, long live the motherland, shanghai no. 1, 2010

IMG 0165

“after all, nobody knew how to appreciate picasso’s paintings until after his death. sometimes an artist’s job is to stir up controversy. i’d rather my work be criticised than neglected.” (chen man)

Avant-garde magazine covers photographed by Chen Man for i-D magazine.

Avant-garde magazine covers photographed by Chen Man for i-D magazine.

whatever the weather issue, i-d magazine celebrates 2012 – the year of the dragon with these portraits, photographed by chen man

sites:

http://www.chenmaner.com

http://chenman.vincentshi.com/

 the new generation should stop imitating western, japanese and korean culture, heritage from “old china,” political pop, the played-out symbols of the cultural revolution, and so forth. it’s about time for the new generation to build their own aesthetic and moral language.

(chen man for jing daily“)

here are two kinds of beauty – natural beauty and inner beauty. i believe the combination of natural beauty and inner beauty is what human should strive for, otherwise we may as well go back to being tribal. what people perceive and believe to be “environmentally friendly” determines the fate of our world. our world has become driven by materialism, and therefore it’s ever more important to promote the ideological conception of “harmony” – using minimal resources and maximum intelligence to create a better world. this is what our world needs. my goal is to present this ideological concept of “harmony” with visuals in my work to make it more understandable for people.

(ibidem)

self china magazine, may 2015, sophie marceau by chen man

Outside Inside the Dream, 2012 Copyright Chen Man. Courtesy of L.A. Louver

outside inside the dream, 201o, chen man

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anna heylen

“life isn’t about finding yourself, it’s about creating yourself.” (george bernard shaw)

shaw-a citira anna heylen na svom sajtu i već blic šetnja po toj cyber-space škrinji objašnjava i zašto.

volim kreatore koji imaju svoju priču, filozofiju, poetiku… koji imaju ono nešto više od prolaznog, od dekorativnog… anna kaže da modu ne treba shvatati suviše ozbiljno, kao što ni sam život ne treba uzimati preozbiljno. to je i poruka njene izložbe “dolls” koju je uradila 1993. godine kada je antverpen bio evropska prestonica kultura. kroz 130 identičnih lutaka, bez lica (da se u njih ne mogu naseliti ni zli duhovi), bez pola, kose… prikazala je svoj pogled na modu. odenula ih je i one su oživele. čoveka sve određuje, sve ga čini čovekom, pa i odeća… deo je našeg identiteta, rukopisa…

“liberty is a never-ending love-story” (anna h.)

anna heylen: these dolls are my soul and my great frustration.

ona voli prirodne materijale. bezvremeno. da dekonstruiše. spaja nespojivo. voli vunu i ovce. voli kinu!!!

završila je modni dizajn na kraljevskoj akademiji lepih umetnosti  u antverpenu (antwerp) i iako nije deo “antverpenske šestorke”, deo je te belgijske modne posebnosti i magije…

pisac tine hens je ove stihove napisala specijalno za anne:

“what do you see when you close your eyes?
an orgiastic explosion of contrasting colours?
or a sail ship that floats on a sleeping ocean?

what are your hopes made of?
orange bricks to built walls with?
or the intangible fibre of cotton candy?

which side of the border do you prefer?
the inside or the outside?
or don’t you like to pick sides?

can fashion fulfil dreams?
or is fashion an everlasting compensation,
for our failure to fly?

and is it possible to design clothes
that are as light, as full, as abundant
and have as much relief
as a bird’s plumage?

or is every collection just another try?”

i citira baš ove stihove iz “yellow submarine“:

so we sailed on to the sun,
till we found the sea green,
and we lived beneath the waves,
in our yellow submarine,

as we live a life of ease
every one of us has all we need,
sky of blue, and sea green, sea of green
in our yellow submarine. ( haha! )

ta vuna koja je njena strast… vuna stigla iz dalekih predela mongolije! i iz škotske! bela, meka, stvorena da štiti i miluje naša tela baš onako kako oklop, čuvar naše duše i zaslužuje…

aw 1998/1999

dolls

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deep deepmoss

liu xiaolu (dido liu) stoji iza branda deepmoss. dolazi iz kine. i ona je studirala na central saint martins.(pre toga studirala modni dizajn u beijingu). i ona je, poput nekih njenih sunarodnika donela novu dozu svežeg kiseonika. ono nešto staro novo. drugačije. tema njene debi kolekcije iz 2013. bila je “youthful old soul“. na njenom instagram prfofilu piše: “for young people, for old soul“. zatajena. nepretenciozna, a snažnog rukopisa. svoja. i kada za temu uzima modu sa kraja 19. veka. evropskog. kao da je našu evropsku prekomplikovanost pustila kroz filter svoje istočnjačke jednostavnosti. i strpljivosti. i prefinjenosti. i tako dobro idu i tom waits i laurie anderson uz nju. njene kolekcije nisu ograničene starosnim granicama onih koji će te kreacije imati čast da nose. a ne mari ni za druga ograničenja ova neobična devojka.

moja fasciniranost dizajnerima koji dolaze iz kine je, pre svega, u tome što donose nov pogled na lepotu, što to nije samo kozmetička lepota, što je jasno da iza te novine stoji duga, bogata, moćna tradicija. i želja. velika želja da se stvori delo ugodno i duši i telu. zažmurim i čujem šuštanje teške, kvalitetne svile…

kolekcija a/w 2015

hats by kreuzzz

kolekcija s/s 2015

“i think that the body, especially those of women, should be soft, and that qualities of strength and power should be on the inside.” (dido liu)

deepmoss F/W 2015 lookbookdesign by Dido Liu/hats by Kreuzzz/photo by Zephy Lou

photos by zephy lou a/w 2015

didi lou

kolekcija s/s 2014:

deep_moss_013

deep_moss_014

photos kian znang

pogledati: http://www.icshanghai.com/en/videoen/2015-04-23/33555.html

all the world is green – tom waits

I fell into the ocean
When you became my wife
I risked it all against the sea
To have a better life
Marie you’re the wild blue sky
And men do foolish things
You turn kings into beggars
And beggars into kings

Pretend that you owe me nothing
And all the world is green
We can bring back the old
days again
And all the world is green

The face forgives the mirror
The worm forgives the plow
The questions begs the answer
Can you forgive me somehow
Maybe when our story’s over
We’ll go where it’s always spring
The band is playing our song again
And all the world is green

Pretend that you owe me nothing
And all the world is green
We can bring back the old
days again
And all the world is green

The moon is yellow silver
Oh the things that summer brings
It’s a love you’d kill for
And all the world is green
He is balancing a diamond
On a blade of grass
The dew will settle on our grave
When all the world is green

deepmoss

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irene silvagni

odavno imam želju da pišem o njoj. nekako mi se činilo (i čini) da je prevelik zalogaj. ti pritajeni tigrovi,  skriveni zmajevi nisu jednostavni za opisati… irene silvagni, ta nezavisna i slobodna žena, rođena je u kanu 1941. poreklom je ruska jevrejka, kći emigranata… između ostalog bila je i kreativni direktor yohji yamamoto-a… kaže da su bili kao brat i sestra. ali, i da nije njegov saradnik, bila bi mi zanimljiva.  pre deset dana na instagramu sam počela da pratim profil byronesquevintage, tačno od dana kada im je gost postala ona. kačila je svoje privatno-poslovne fotografije iz dve decenije duge saradnje sa yy i setih se svoje stare namere da pišem o njoj. o njenom bajkovitom letnjikovcu u okolini avignona možete da čitate ovde: mezoargues.free.fr

kao i njen prijatelj/saradnik, duhovni harizmatični brat – yohji yamamoto, ni ona ne voli savršene, dovršene stvari. godine su za nju tek broj, ali ona nema potrebe da se podmlađuje medicinskim tretmanima, niti da farba svoju kosu… ona zna da je to stvar stanja duha. i slobode tog istog duha. posebno danas kada svet tako oksidira. naravno, uvek je u crnom… uređvala je modne biblije od elle do vogue i napustila sve to kada je osetila okove. i počela da sarađuje sa onim ko je doneo svež vazduh, miris slobode u pariz. sa yamamotom. ona je neko ko otvoreno govori o dominaciji centara finansijske moći u modnoj industriji, o nedostatku etike u tom poslu, a estetika bez etike je ništa. pa, i u modi.

tog 27. aprila na instagramu @bayronesquevintage stavila je  i ovaj tekst:

bonjour, i’m irene silvagni. this week i’ll be taking over byronesque’s instagram with my personal photographs taken over two decades with my dear friend yohji yamamoto. this picture was taken during my first trip to japan with him. when yohji invited me for the first time in japan, i went to an onsen in kyoto with nathalie ours, (note from byronesque: onsens are bathing facilities and inns around the hot springs). we only wore kimonos the whole time we were there. it was my first experience in an onsen and i fell in love with japan.

the film is directed and edited by then french vogue editor and little squares founder debra scherer. interview justin westovert.

***

for a long time how i had a wish to write about her. somehow it seemed (and seems) that is too big piece. those crouching tigers, hidden dragons  are not easy to describe…irene silvagni, this independent and free woman, was born in 1941, in cannes, the russian jewish origin, the daughter of immigrants… among other things, she was the creative director of yohji yamamoto… she said that they were like brother and sister. but, even she was not his associate, she would be an interesting one to me. ten days ago i started to follow the profile of byronesquevintage on instagram, exactly the same day when she become their guest there. she attached her private-business photos from two decades long cooperation with yy and i suddenly remembered my old intention to write about her. all about her fairy summer house in the vicinity of avignon you can read here: mezoargues.free.fr

as well as her friend / co-worker, spiritual & charismatic brother – yohji yamamoto, she does not like perfect, finished things. years are for her only the numbers, but she does not need to rejuvenate the medical treatments, or to colour  her hair… she knows that this thing is state of mind. and the freedom of that same spirit. especially today when the world is so oxidized. of course, she is always in black … she was editor of  fashion bible vogue and elle she left it all when she felt the chains. and she began to cooperate with that one, who brought the fresh air, the smell of freedom in paris. with yamamoto. she is someone who openly talks about the dominance of the centers of financial power in the fashion industry, about the lack of ethics in this profession, and aesthetics without ethics is nothing. and in the fashion,as well. on 27 th april she put this text to instagram:

bonjour, i’m irene silvagni. this week i’ll be taking over byronesque’s instagram with my personal photographs taken over two decades with my dear friend yohji yamamoto. this picture was taken during my first trip to japan with him. when yohji invited me for the first time in japan, i went to an onsen in kyoto with nathalie ours, (note from byronesque: onsens are bathing facilities and inns around the hot springs). we only wore kimonos the whole time we were there. it was my first experience in an onsen and i fell in love with japan.

irene silvagni

photo by alexia s, irene u svom vrtu

a ovo je insert iz razgovora koji je fotograf monika bielskyte (snimila fotografiju gore u vrtu irene silvagni)  vodila sa njom za someslashthings.com:

mb / why do you think people need to get close to death in order to start appreciating their life, all the simple things, to stop being afraid of giving of oneself? since i lost my friend, it made me realise i should not wait before showing people i really care about them, because maybe if people really knew that others cared about them, it could save them.

 is / yes but the problem is that you cannot help some people because their destiny is sort of traced. even if you don’t want to die, sometimes it is too late to stop the process of having hurt yourself. anyway, we all are going to die, that’s for sure. salvador dali made a record. he says that sometimes he invites death to come sit with him, have a drink, so he’ll know her better, so when she comes he’ll be less afraid. i have it here & i will make you listen to it in spanish because it’s really very surrealist & very true at the same time. if you got closer to the idea of death you would be less afraid to die at that certain moment of your life. life & death, i experienced both of them. when my children were born it was life & when my husband died in my arms it was death. those are the two most important moments of our lives. because those two things go beyond our will. the child is born & you cannot do anything about it & when we die, we cannot do anything about it. i believe there are no stronger moments than that in life— birth & death. the rest is just filling up your life & preparing your death. we are on this earth for a reason, so we have to try to fill it up with days that are full of things that are sometimes painful, sometimes joyful but always fulfilling because we have to try to live life the best we can. but we are all different & our concept of life is different. i am not perfect at all, i am the only one to know my own secrets & to know my defects & weaknesses, but i would like to look at myself in the mirror every night & say i did my best.”

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photo: ingmari lamy 

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vega – the dream catcher

vega wang sa blogu diane pernet

http://www.vegawang.com

vega zaishi wang je još jedan dragulj iz kine brušen na prestižnoj londonskoj central saint martins školi. njene kreacije su lepe i jednostavne. mislim na njene modele. odeću. mada je njena kreacija i ta čudesna kuća u kojoj radi u skrovitom delu beijinga. i onaj drugi njen butik u tom gradu. lepo pristaje ime “vega” toj devojci-dečaku, sićušnoj, kratke kose, sa tetovažama inspirisanim ruskim zatvorima… α lyrae. alfa lira. čak se i jedna njena kolekcija zove tako. prikladno. jedna od najsjajnijih zvezda na nebu iako udaljena od nas 25,2 svetlosne godine. i jedna od najsjajnijih zvezda na kineskoj modnoj sceni. (mada ih je zaista puno, ruku na srce. i to ne samo iz razloga odnosa kvantitet vs kvalitet.)

vega – alfa lira

rođena je 1985. godine u provinciji liaoning.  već sa 16 godina odlazi u london na školovanje. bila je jedno vreme asistent alexanderu mcqueenu. nakon okončanja studija vratila se u kinu. i zanosno i zaneseno spaja kinesku kulturnu baštinu i urbanost londona u svojoj minimalističkoj estetici. kao uzore u svom stvaralaštvu navodi dva imena: yohji yamamoto i ann demeulemeester. zašto me to ne iznenađuje?

btw, za sebe ovaj dream catcher kaže da je dressmaker.

VZW-4.jpgVZW-5.jpg

vega zaishi wang, “alpha lyrea” special collection 2012 u kojoj je uvela svetlost. kao sa te sjajne udaljene zvezde. i poeziju. blisko i daleko… i the creators project, intel, vice, elektro muziku zhang shou wang-a…  i igru. i sasašnjost i budućnost. i prošlost. jer ono što mi vidimo kao sjaj zvezda na vedrom noćnom nebu je tek njihov davni ugašen sjaj…

“…i kao zvezde ugašene, koje
čoveku ipak šalju svetlost svoju
te čovek vidi sjaj, oblik i boju
dalekih zvezda što već ne postoje…” (milan rakić, simonida)

vega zaishi wang’s s/s  2014 collection “in love again”, photos by  si ma liang

“ALPHA LYRAE” '12 SPECIAL COLLECTION

sa ovom kolekcijom vega wang poručuje da žena sa njenom odećom stupa kao pod punom ratnom opremom u bitku za svoju nezavisnost. baš kao sto je stupala princeza jieyou. ona od kineske žene želi da načini samosvesna, samopouzdana ljudska bića.

“ALPHA LYRAE” '12 SPECIAL COLLECTION

 

“ALPHA LYRAE” '12 SPECIAL COLLECTION

na fenomenalnom insajderskom sajtu “the secret quide for alternative beijing”   (uređuju ga zoetica ebb, daniel frei i shien lee)  možete videti kako izgleda njeno skrovito, a sjajno kao njeno ime, mesto u beijingu, na adresi: 63 yanyue hutong, dongsi nandajie, dongcheng district.

 

drugo mesto u beijingu gde možete naći njene modele je ovo u lafayette xidan arei. ja ne znam koje mi je zanimljivije. to je vega: staro i novo, istok i zapad:

 

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j.kim or i pray with all of my love for tulips, cherry blossom…

sasvim slučajno sam je otkrila na instagramu. a nekako je previše svega i nije lako uočiti drvo u gustoj šumi. iglu u plastu sena, zapravo. nedostaje mi spori ritam. sporo ili barem sporije kliženje kroz vreme, prostor, bilo koji, pa i cyber… možda je to razlog što me toliko privlači istočnjačka umetnost. kao spori pokreti očiju yayoi kusami koje sam danas videla na tren na nekom tv kanalu. kao “spori let ptica iz kataloga” lune iz ns. tako bih volela da živim u nekom japanskom vrtu.  ili vrtu gdegod na daalekom istoku. i pravim neku svoju “i pray with all of my love for tulips” instalaciju života. kao yayoi kusama.  i posmatram cvetanje trešanja…  a april da traje barem osam vekova. a ona koju sam slučajno našla na instagramu u rusiji se zove  женя ким, na zapadu jenia kim. ili jane kim.  iz porodice je korejskih izbeglica u uzbekistanu. odrasla u taškentu. btw, “taškent” znači kameni grad. a женя deluje tako fragilno. živi i stvara u moskvi. tamo se i školovala. ima samo 23 godine, a sa 6 godina je počela da šije. spojila je koreju, uzbekistan, rusiju, japan, pop-art, zapad, tradiciju i urbano, sport i eleganciju, korejski kostim i ples i modu, lepo i nesavršeno. i “kupila” mi je. urbano zen (da, to je ta (ne)moguća kombinacija) женя. da imam para ne bih ih žalila da pokupujem iz svake njene kolekcije ponešto. a onda bih pobacala sve ovo što imam u ormanu.  i učila korejski ples…

j.kim je njena robna marka.

***

i discovered her quite accidentally on instagram. and it’s kind of too much of everything and it’s not easy to discover a tree in a dense forest. a needle in a haystack, actually, i miss the slow rhythm. slow or at least slow glide through time, through space, any space, even the cyber … perhaps that was the reason why i was so attracted to oriental art. as slow as the eye movements of yayoi kusama that i saw today for a moment on a tv channel. as “slow flight of birds from the catalog” of luna from ns. i would like so to live in a japanese garden, or in the garden wherever in the far east. and to make one of my “i pray with all of my love for tulips” installation of life. as yayoi kusama. and watch cherry blossom… and that april last at least eight centuries. the one i accidentally found on instagram, in russia her name is  женя ким, in the west jenia kim. or jane kim… from the family of korean refugees in uzbekistan. she grew up in tashkent. btw, “tashkent” means stone town. but женя seems so fragile. she lives and works in moscow.  and she went to school there. she is only 23 years old and on the age of 6 she began to sew. merged korea, uzbekistan, russia, japan, pop art, west, tradition and urban, sport and elegance, korean costume and dance with fashion, beautiful and imperfect. and she “bought me”. urban zen (yes, that is the (non) possible combination) женя. if i had money i would not regret to buy up something from each of her collection and then i would throw out everything that i have in my closet and i would learn korean dance …

jenia kim founded her brand j.kim in 2013.

j.kim, f-w 15, vogue

Обзор Buro 24/7: J.Kim, осень-зима 2015

hanbok je tradicionalna korejska haljina, a dole je tradicionalni korejski ples jeju obbang gaksichumbreathless.

hanbok is the traditional korean dress, and below is a traditional korean dance jeju obbang gaksichum. breathless.

💔

A video posted by J.Kim Jenia Kim (@pagejkim) on

Jenia Kim

Десигнер Ј.Ким Еугене Ким омиљени одела.  Слика №6.

latice japanske trešnje i origami sleteli na njene tkanine, haljine i kapute…

женя ким, москва

j.kim

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