chen man, east and west

all reality is a phantom, all phantoms are real.” (chen man  陳漫 , beijing, china)

chen man je fotograf, grafički dizajner i slikar. iz kine, iz pekinga. rođena 1980. u mongoliji. lepa (radi i kao model), obrazovana, uspešna, autentična i ima šta da kaže. pogledaj prvo video dole. dobro ga pogledaj:

 chen man: east-west” at l.a. louver, 2014

kada kažemo kina danas , većina nas pomisli na zemlju koja se vrtoglavo brzo i snažno otvorila prema svetu. prema materijalnom, zapadnom svetu, pre svega. i pomislimo kako više ne nose ama baš svi kinezi ista odela, ne voze bicikl, ne jedu pirinač i ne drže samo restorane i prodavnice nepotrebnih, jeftinih stvari, ako uspeju da odu iz kine. chen man je jedna od onih iz ove velike i magične zemlje koja će nas podučiti da je kina mnogo, mnogo više od ovih stereotipa. chen man o ovim našim stereotipima govori i sa ironijom i sa razumevanjem. živi između kine i usa. između istoka i zapada. između tradicije i novog. i zna, vrlo dobro zna da smo svi različiti. i da smo svi isti. i da novac ne rešava sva. nigde. pa, ni u kini. ističe da je presedan uticaj na nju imaju drevne kineske filozofije, mnogo više nego zapadna kultura i materijalizam, čiji uticaj, međutim, ne poriče. njen stil je eklektički, odražava mnoštvo uticaja pod kojima stvara i živi…

chen man je odrasla u skromnom delu pekinga, u jednoj o donih uskih, pretrpanih, sporednih ulica. već sa dve godine crtala je miševe koji su carevali po kući, a kako su roditelji zapazili da su ti crteži prilično dobri odveli su je kod jednog starog majstora tradicionalnog slikarstva da je podučava. majka je bila lekarka, a otac grafički dizajner koji je pravio revolucionarne postere ogromnih dimenzija. “new york times” je za chen rekao da je pionir vizuelne revolucije u kini. izlaže širom sveta. sarađuje sa najvećim časopisima i brendovima. i govori! ona nije nemi fotograf.

Chen Man<br><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />
12 Chinese Colors: Eosin 1, 2011<br><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />
c-print<br><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />
76 3/4 x 51 1/4 in. (195 x 130 cm)<br><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />
Edition of 7, 3 A.P.

chen man, 12 chinese colors: eosin 1, 2011

 

as nothing more than a simple person, i have no power to change the future of mankind or myself. i sincerely hope that communication between people on a spiritual level will see great developments, and not just in numbers or statistics, but something we can all see with the naked eye. not just in form either, but a true balance of idealism and materialism, and worldly recognition of the true beauty of traditional chinese life. only if the majority of people live life in this manner will the world be a beautiful and peaceful place to live, people will have clean air to breath and fresh water to drink, and mankind will be able to attain an ideal and harmonious future.  (chen man, interview)

 

Чен Ман Лонг Ливе Домовина

chen man, long live the motherland, shanghai no. 1, 2010

IMG 0165

“after all, nobody knew how to appreciate picasso’s paintings until after his death. sometimes an artist’s job is to stir up controversy. i’d rather my work be criticised than neglected.” (chen man)

Avant-garde magazine covers photographed by Chen Man for i-D magazine.

Avant-garde magazine covers photographed by Chen Man for i-D magazine.

whatever the weather issue, i-d magazine celebrates 2012 – the year of the dragon with these portraits, photographed by chen man

sites:

http://www.chenmaner.com

http://chenman.vincentshi.com/

 the new generation should stop imitating western, japanese and korean culture, heritage from “old china,” political pop, the played-out symbols of the cultural revolution, and so forth. it’s about time for the new generation to build their own aesthetic and moral language.

(chen man for jing daily“)

here are two kinds of beauty – natural beauty and inner beauty. i believe the combination of natural beauty and inner beauty is what human should strive for, otherwise we may as well go back to being tribal. what people perceive and believe to be “environmentally friendly” determines the fate of our world. our world has become driven by materialism, and therefore it’s ever more important to promote the ideological conception of “harmony” – using minimal resources and maximum intelligence to create a better world. this is what our world needs. my goal is to present this ideological concept of “harmony” with visuals in my work to make it more understandable for people.

(ibidem)

self china magazine, may 2015, sophie marceau by chen man

Outside Inside the Dream, 2012 Copyright Chen Man. Courtesy of L.A. Louver

outside inside the dream, 201o, chen man

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anna heylen

“life isn’t about finding yourself, it’s about creating yourself.” (george bernard shaw)

shaw-a citira anna heylen na svom sajtu i već blic šetnja po toj cyber-space škrinji objašnjava i zašto.

volim kreatore koji imaju svoju priču, filozofiju, poetiku… koji imaju ono nešto više od prolaznog, od dekorativnog… anna kaže da modu ne treba shvatati suviše ozbiljno, kao što ni sam život ne treba uzimati preozbiljno. to je i poruka njene izložbe “dolls” koju je uradila 1993. godine kada je antverpen bio evropska prestonica kultura. kroz 130 identičnih lutaka, bez lica (da se u njih ne mogu naseliti ni zli duhovi), bez pola, kose… prikazala je svoj pogled na modu. odenula ih je i one su oživele. čoveka sve određuje, sve ga čini čovekom, pa i odeća… deo je našeg identiteta, rukopisa…

“liberty is a never-ending love-story” (anna h.)

anna heylen: these dolls are my soul and my great frustration.

ona voli prirodne materijale. bezvremeno. da dekonstruiše. spaja nespojivo. voli vunu i ovce. voli kinu!!!

završila je modni dizajn na kraljevskoj akademiji lepih umetnosti  u antverpenu (antwerp) i iako nije deo “antverpenske šestorke”, deo je te belgijske modne posebnosti i magije…

pisac tine hens je ove stihove napisala specijalno za anne:

“what do you see when you close your eyes?
an orgiastic explosion of contrasting colours?
or a sail ship that floats on a sleeping ocean?

what are your hopes made of?
orange bricks to built walls with?
or the intangible fibre of cotton candy?

which side of the border do you prefer?
the inside or the outside?
or don’t you like to pick sides?

can fashion fulfil dreams?
or is fashion an everlasting compensation,
for our failure to fly?

and is it possible to design clothes
that are as light, as full, as abundant
and have as much relief
as a bird’s plumage?

or is every collection just another try?”

i citira baš ove stihove iz “yellow submarine“:

so we sailed on to the sun,
till we found the sea green,
and we lived beneath the waves,
in our yellow submarine,

as we live a life of ease
every one of us has all we need,
sky of blue, and sea green, sea of green
in our yellow submarine. ( haha! )

ta vuna koja je njena strast… vuna stigla iz dalekih predela mongolije! i iz škotske! bela, meka, stvorena da štiti i miluje naša tela baš onako kako oklop, čuvar naše duše i zaslužuje…

aw 1998/1999

dolls

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deep deepmoss

liu xiaolu (dido liu) stoji iza branda deepmoss. dolazi iz kine. i ona je studirala na central saint martins.(pre toga studirala modni dizajn u beijingu). i ona je, poput nekih njenih sunarodnika donela novu dozu svežeg kiseonika. ono nešto staro novo. drugačije. tema njene debi kolekcije iz 2013. bila je “youthful old soul“. na njenom instagram prfofilu piše: “for young people, for old soul“. zatajena. nepretenciozna, a snažnog rukopisa. svoja. i kada za temu uzima modu sa kraja 19. veka. evropskog. kao da je našu evropsku prekomplikovanost pustila kroz filter svoje istočnjačke jednostavnosti. i strpljivosti. i prefinjenosti. i tako dobro idu i tom waits i laurie anderson uz nju. njene kolekcije nisu ograničene starosnim granicama onih koji će te kreacije imati čast da nose. a ne mari ni za druga ograničenja ova neobična devojka.

moja fasciniranost dizajnerima koji dolaze iz kine je, pre svega, u tome što donose nov pogled na lepotu, što to nije samo kozmetička lepota, što je jasno da iza te novine stoji duga, bogata, moćna tradicija. i želja. velika želja da se stvori delo ugodno i duši i telu. zažmurim i čujem šuštanje teške, kvalitetne svile…

kolekcija a/w 2015

hats by kreuzzz

kolekcija s/s 2015

“i think that the body, especially those of women, should be soft, and that qualities of strength and power should be on the inside.” (dido liu)

deepmoss F/W 2015 lookbookdesign by Dido Liu/hats by Kreuzzz/photo by Zephy Lou

photos by zephy lou a/w 2015

didi lou

kolekcija s/s 2014:

deep_moss_013

deep_moss_014

photos kian znang

pogledati: http://www.icshanghai.com/en/videoen/2015-04-23/33555.html

all the world is green – tom waits

I fell into the ocean
When you became my wife
I risked it all against the sea
To have a better life
Marie you’re the wild blue sky
And men do foolish things
You turn kings into beggars
And beggars into kings

Pretend that you owe me nothing
And all the world is green
We can bring back the old
days again
And all the world is green

The face forgives the mirror
The worm forgives the plow
The questions begs the answer
Can you forgive me somehow
Maybe when our story’s over
We’ll go where it’s always spring
The band is playing our song again
And all the world is green

Pretend that you owe me nothing
And all the world is green
We can bring back the old
days again
And all the world is green

The moon is yellow silver
Oh the things that summer brings
It’s a love you’d kill for
And all the world is green
He is balancing a diamond
On a blade of grass
The dew will settle on our grave
When all the world is green

deepmoss

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irene silvagni

odavno imam želju da pišem o njoj. nekako mi se činilo (i čini) da je prevelik zalogaj. ti pritajeni tigrovi,  skriveni zmajevi nisu jednostavni za opisati… irene silvagni, ta nezavisna i slobodna žena, rođena je u kanu 1941. poreklom je ruska jevrejka, kći emigranata… između ostalog bila je i kreativni direktor yohji yamamoto-a… kaže da su bili kao brat i sestra. ali, i da nije njegov saradnik, bila bi mi zanimljiva.  pre deset dana na instagramu sam počela da pratim profil byronesquevintage, tačno od dana kada im je gost postala ona. kačila je svoje privatno-poslovne fotografije iz dve decenije duge saradnje sa yy i setih se svoje stare namere da pišem o njoj. o njenom bajkovitom letnjikovcu u okolini avignona možete da čitate ovde: mezoargues.free.fr

kao i njen prijatelj/saradnik, duhovni harizmatični brat – yohji yamamoto, ni ona ne voli savršene, dovršene stvari. godine su za nju tek broj, ali ona nema potrebe da se podmlađuje medicinskim tretmanima, niti da farba svoju kosu… ona zna da je to stvar stanja duha. i slobode tog istog duha. posebno danas kada svet tako oksidira. naravno, uvek je u crnom… uređvala je modne biblije od elle do vogue i napustila sve to kada je osetila okove. i počela da sarađuje sa onim ko je doneo svež vazduh, miris slobode u pariz. sa yamamotom. ona je neko ko otvoreno govori o dominaciji centara finansijske moći u modnoj industriji, o nedostatku etike u tom poslu, a estetika bez etike je ništa. pa, i u modi.

tog 27. aprila na instagramu @bayronesquevintage stavila je  i ovaj tekst:

bonjour, i’m irene silvagni. this week i’ll be taking over byronesque’s instagram with my personal photographs taken over two decades with my dear friend yohji yamamoto. this picture was taken during my first trip to japan with him. when yohji invited me for the first time in japan, i went to an onsen in kyoto with nathalie ours, (note from byronesque: onsens are bathing facilities and inns around the hot springs). we only wore kimonos the whole time we were there. it was my first experience in an onsen and i fell in love with japan.

the film is directed and edited by then french vogue editor and little squares founder debra scherer. interview justin westovert.

***

for a long time how i had a wish to write about her. somehow it seemed (and seems) that is too big piece. those crouching tigers, hidden dragons  are not easy to describe…irene silvagni, this independent and free woman, was born in 1941, in cannes, the russian jewish origin, the daughter of immigrants… among other things, she was the creative director of yohji yamamoto… she said that they were like brother and sister. but, even she was not his associate, she would be an interesting one to me. ten days ago i started to follow the profile of byronesquevintage on instagram, exactly the same day when she become their guest there. she attached her private-business photos from two decades long cooperation with yy and i suddenly remembered my old intention to write about her. all about her fairy summer house in the vicinity of avignon you can read here: mezoargues.free.fr

as well as her friend / co-worker, spiritual & charismatic brother – yohji yamamoto, she does not like perfect, finished things. years are for her only the numbers, but she does not need to rejuvenate the medical treatments, or to colour  her hair… she knows that this thing is state of mind. and the freedom of that same spirit. especially today when the world is so oxidized. of course, she is always in black … she was editor of  fashion bible vogue and elle she left it all when she felt the chains. and she began to cooperate with that one, who brought the fresh air, the smell of freedom in paris. with yamamoto. she is someone who openly talks about the dominance of the centers of financial power in the fashion industry, about the lack of ethics in this profession, and aesthetics without ethics is nothing. and in the fashion,as well. on 27 th april she put this text to instagram:

bonjour, i’m irene silvagni. this week i’ll be taking over byronesque’s instagram with my personal photographs taken over two decades with my dear friend yohji yamamoto. this picture was taken during my first trip to japan with him. when yohji invited me for the first time in japan, i went to an onsen in kyoto with nathalie ours, (note from byronesque: onsens are bathing facilities and inns around the hot springs). we only wore kimonos the whole time we were there. it was my first experience in an onsen and i fell in love with japan.

irene silvagni

photo by alexia s, irene u svom vrtu

a ovo je insert iz razgovora koji je fotograf monika bielskyte (snimila fotografiju gore u vrtu irene silvagni)  vodila sa njom za someslashthings.com:

mb / why do you think people need to get close to death in order to start appreciating their life, all the simple things, to stop being afraid of giving of oneself? since i lost my friend, it made me realise i should not wait before showing people i really care about them, because maybe if people really knew that others cared about them, it could save them.

 is / yes but the problem is that you cannot help some people because their destiny is sort of traced. even if you don’t want to die, sometimes it is too late to stop the process of having hurt yourself. anyway, we all are going to die, that’s for sure. salvador dali made a record. he says that sometimes he invites death to come sit with him, have a drink, so he’ll know her better, so when she comes he’ll be less afraid. i have it here & i will make you listen to it in spanish because it’s really very surrealist & very true at the same time. if you got closer to the idea of death you would be less afraid to die at that certain moment of your life. life & death, i experienced both of them. when my children were born it was life & when my husband died in my arms it was death. those are the two most important moments of our lives. because those two things go beyond our will. the child is born & you cannot do anything about it & when we die, we cannot do anything about it. i believe there are no stronger moments than that in life— birth & death. the rest is just filling up your life & preparing your death. we are on this earth for a reason, so we have to try to fill it up with days that are full of things that are sometimes painful, sometimes joyful but always fulfilling because we have to try to live life the best we can. but we are all different & our concept of life is different. i am not perfect at all, i am the only one to know my own secrets & to know my defects & weaknesses, but i would like to look at myself in the mirror every night & say i did my best.”

_DSC5551

photo: ingmari lamy 

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vega – the dream catcher

vega wang sa blogu diane pernet

http://www.vegawang.com

vega zaishi wang je još jedan dragulj iz kine brušen na prestižnoj londonskoj central saint martins školi. njene kreacije su lepe i jednostavne. mislim na njene modele. odeću. mada je njena kreacija i ta čudesna kuća u kojoj radi u skrovitom delu beijinga. i onaj drugi njen butik u tom gradu. lepo pristaje ime “vega” toj devojci-dečaku, sićušnoj, kratke kose, sa tetovažama inspirisanim ruskim zatvorima… α lyrae. alfa lira. čak se i jedna njena kolekcija zove tako. prikladno. jedna od najsjajnijih zvezda na nebu iako udaljena od nas 25,2 svetlosne godine. i jedna od najsjajnijih zvezda na kineskoj modnoj sceni. (mada ih je zaista puno, ruku na srce. i to ne samo iz razloga odnosa kvantitet vs kvalitet.)

vega – alfa lira

rođena je 1985. godine u provinciji liaoning.  već sa 16 godina odlazi u london na školovanje. bila je jedno vreme asistent alexanderu mcqueenu. nakon okončanja studija vratila se u kinu. i zanosno i zaneseno spaja kinesku kulturnu baštinu i urbanost londona u svojoj minimalističkoj estetici. kao uzore u svom stvaralaštvu navodi dva imena: yohji yamamoto i ann demeulemeester. zašto me to ne iznenađuje?

btw, za sebe ovaj dream catcher kaže da je dressmaker.

VZW-4.jpgVZW-5.jpg

vega zaishi wang, “alpha lyrea” special collection 2012 u kojoj je uvela svetlost. kao sa te sjajne udaljene zvezde. i poeziju. blisko i daleko… i the creators project, intel, vice, elektro muziku zhang shou wang-a…  i igru. i sasašnjost i budućnost. i prošlost. jer ono što mi vidimo kao sjaj zvezda na vedrom noćnom nebu je tek njihov davni ugašen sjaj…

“…i kao zvezde ugašene, koje
čoveku ipak šalju svetlost svoju
te čovek vidi sjaj, oblik i boju
dalekih zvezda što već ne postoje…” (milan rakić, simonida)

vega zaishi wang’s s/s  2014 collection “in love again”, photos by  si ma liang

“ALPHA LYRAE” '12 SPECIAL COLLECTION

sa ovom kolekcijom vega wang poručuje da žena sa njenom odećom stupa kao pod punom ratnom opremom u bitku za svoju nezavisnost. baš kao sto je stupala princeza jieyou. ona od kineske žene želi da načini samosvesna, samopouzdana ljudska bića.

“ALPHA LYRAE” '12 SPECIAL COLLECTION

 

“ALPHA LYRAE” '12 SPECIAL COLLECTION

na fenomenalnom insajderskom sajtu “the secret quide for alternative beijing”   (uređuju ga zoetica ebb, daniel frei i shien lee)  možete videti kako izgleda njeno skrovito, a sjajno kao njeno ime, mesto u beijingu, na adresi: 63 yanyue hutong, dongsi nandajie, dongcheng district.

 

drugo mesto u beijingu gde možete naći njene modele je ovo u lafayette xidan arei. ja ne znam koje mi je zanimljivije. to je vega: staro i novo, istok i zapad:

 

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j.kim or i pray with all of my love for tulips, cherry blossom…

sasvim slučajno sam je otkrila na instagramu. a nekako je previše svega i nije lako uočiti drvo u gustoj šumi. iglu u plastu sena, zapravo. nedostaje mi spori ritam. sporo ili barem sporije kliženje kroz vreme, prostor, bilo koji, pa i cyber… možda je to razlog što me toliko privlači istočnjačka umetnost. kao spori pokreti očiju yayoi kusami koje sam danas videla na tren na nekom tv kanalu. kao “spori let ptica iz kataloga” lune iz ns. tako bih volela da živim u nekom japanskom vrtu.  ili vrtu gdegod na daalekom istoku. i pravim neku svoju “i pray with all of my love for tulips” instalaciju života. kao yayoi kusama.  i posmatram cvetanje trešanja…  a april da traje barem osam vekova. a ona koju sam slučajno našla na instagramu u rusiji se zove  женя ким, na zapadu jenia kim. ili jane kim.  iz porodice je korejskih izbeglica u uzbekistanu. odrasla u taškentu. btw, “taškent” znači kameni grad. a женя deluje tako fragilno. živi i stvara u moskvi. tamo se i školovala. ima samo 23 godine, a sa 6 godina je počela da šije. spojila je koreju, uzbekistan, rusiju, japan, pop-art, zapad, tradiciju i urbano, sport i eleganciju, korejski kostim i ples i modu, lepo i nesavršeno. i “kupila” mi je. urbano zen (da, to je ta (ne)moguća kombinacija) женя. da imam para ne bih ih žalila da pokupujem iz svake njene kolekcije ponešto. a onda bih pobacala sve ovo što imam u ormanu.  i učila korejski ples…

j.kim je njena robna marka.

***

i discovered her quite accidentally on instagram. and it’s kind of too much of everything and it’s not easy to discover a tree in a dense forest. a needle in a haystack, actually, i miss the slow rhythm. slow or at least slow glide through time, through space, any space, even the cyber … perhaps that was the reason why i was so attracted to oriental art. as slow as the eye movements of yayoi kusama that i saw today for a moment on a tv channel. as “slow flight of birds from the catalog” of luna from ns. i would like so to live in a japanese garden, or in the garden wherever in the far east. and to make one of my “i pray with all of my love for tulips” installation of life. as yayoi kusama. and watch cherry blossom… and that april last at least eight centuries. the one i accidentally found on instagram, in russia her name is  женя ким, in the west jenia kim. or jane kim… from the family of korean refugees in uzbekistan. she grew up in tashkent. btw, “tashkent” means stone town. but женя seems so fragile. she lives and works in moscow.  and she went to school there. she is only 23 years old and on the age of 6 she began to sew. merged korea, uzbekistan, russia, japan, pop art, west, tradition and urban, sport and elegance, korean costume and dance with fashion, beautiful and imperfect. and she “bought me”. urban zen (yes, that is the (non) possible combination) женя. if i had money i would not regret to buy up something from each of her collection and then i would throw out everything that i have in my closet and i would learn korean dance …

jenia kim founded her brand j.kim in 2013.

j.kim, f-w 15, vogue

Обзор Buro 24/7: J.Kim, осень-зима 2015

hanbok je tradicionalna korejska haljina, a dole je tradicionalni korejski ples jeju obbang gaksichumbreathless.

hanbok is the traditional korean dress, and below is a traditional korean dance jeju obbang gaksichum. breathless.

💔

A video posted by J.Kim (@pagejkim) on

Jenia Kim

Десигнер Ј.Ким Еугене Ким омиљени одела.  Слика №6.

latice japanske trešnje i origami sleteli na njene tkanine, haljine i kapute…

женя ким, москва

j.kim

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ac milan, yohji yamamoto and hello kitty

hello kitty je odrasla mačka. prešla je četrdesetu. dosadili su joj ružičasti tonovi. zapravo, rešila je da se redizajnira. da ostane devojčica, a bude žena. žena-devojčica. voli i fudbal. ide srcem i bira najbolje. yohji yamamoto bi bio i moj izbor. zavidim joj. ako će je neko naučiti stilu, a da ostane svoja, to će biti on. mačkica očito brzo uči, upoznaje crnu, njenu arogantnost, superiornost i moć  zaštite, ima i crne naočari, čak i crnu mašnu… što bi rekao bajaga “vidi šta smo ti uradili od kćerke mama”(…) “sad više nije tako dosadna…”

***

hello kitty is a grown cat. she crossed the forties. she is bored of her pink tones. In fact, she decided to redesign and to stay a little girl, but to be a woman. woman-little girl. she loves football as well. she follows her heart and chooses the best. my choice would be yohji yamamoto, too. i envy her. If someone will teach her about the style, but to make her stay herself, it would be him. .. kitty is obviously a quick learner, introduces black, her arrogance, superiority and power of protection, she has black glasses, even a black tie … .. what bajaga would  say “look what we’ve done to your daughter, mother”…”now she  is not  bored anymore…” if hello kitty selecting the yy for personal creator decided to get serious, whether it was ac milan that decided just the opposite? to embrace the child inside him… football is a game anyway…i would rather expect that from real madrid, it would be fit for their image, they already cooperate with yamamoto. but, anyway, i do like this. in addition to enjoying the beauty of imperfection with japanese, i like their childish view of the world, so if football fans would even over hello kitty be contracted in italy, as well, i would welcome it. the first shop called kitty’s s’yte has already opened on march 25 in tokyo, and 2 april one will open in osaka. then in good order is france. and then the world! hello kitty is a cat of japanese company sanrio. she walks on two legs,  has a red bow and no mouth, which is nominated for the title of the ideal female creature. or just simply she  does not ask anything from us. she is the one who likes to give. she pleases. she listens. she does not ask. she does not requires. she was designed by yuko shimizu. she brought  fabulous wealth in 1974 to the , so to speak, boss called shintaro tsuji. tsuji has already entered the ninth decade, but has kept the boy in himself and enthusiasm  for work and life. he does not go to bed before four in the morning and at nine he is already awake. with his creations, he most likes that they are usually present to others, to make the others happy, pleased, to have elicited a smile. he likes to say that “no one is an island.” so he acts that way. he’s a businessman of special kind, finished chemistry, worked in government institutions, then dedicated himself to a private business, from ten years ago he writes, fairy tales. “fairy tales of the deep” is about a boy who managed to return his lost love with the help of sea turtle. he was the producer of the film about the vietnam war orphans “who are the debolts?” which in 1978 won an academy award for the best documentary movie.

ac milan

ako je hello kitty odabirom yy za ličnog kreatora rešila da se uozbilji, da li je ac milan rešio upravo suprotno? da prizove dete u sebi… fudbal je ionako igra… mmda, pre bih to očekivala od real madrida, to bi se više uklopilo u njihov image, ionako već sarađuju sa yamamotom. no, kakogod, meni se ovo dopada. ja kod japanaca pored uživanja u lepoti nesavršenosti najviše volim njihov detinji pogled na svet, pa ako će makar i preko hello kitty njime zaraziti i fudbalske navijače u italiji, ja to pozdravljam.

ki♦♦y’s s’yte

Иохји Иамамото к Санрио заједничким брендовима

山本耀司 x Sanrio 合作品牌「ki♦♦y's s'yte」伊势丹新宿店发售

山本耀司 x Sanrio 合作品牌「ki♦♦y's s'yte」伊势丹新宿店发售

山本耀司 x Sanrio 合作品牌「ki♦♦y's s'yte」伊势丹新宿店发售

fotografije sa sajta: http://nowre.com/

hello kitty & yohji yamamoto

prva prodavnica  ki♦♦y’s s’yte već je 25. marta otvorena u tokiju, a 2. aprila biće i ona u osaki. potom je na redu francuska. a onda svet!

hello kitty je mačka japanske firme sanrio. hoda na dve noge, ima crvenu mašnu i nema usta, što je nominuje za titulu idealnog ženskog stvora. ili prosto ona ništa ne traži od nas. ona je ona koja voli da daje. usrećuje. sluša. ne pita. ne zahteva. dizajnirala ju je yuko shimizu 1974. donela je basnoslovno bogatstvo svom da tako kažem gazdi koji se zove shintaro tsuji. tsuji je već zašao u devetu deceniju, ali je sačuvao dečaka u sebi i radni i životni entuzijazam. u postelju ne ide pre četiri ujutro, a u 9 je već budan.  kod svojih kreacija najviše voli to što se one obično daruju drugima, da bi se taj drugi usrećio, obradovao, da bi mu se izmamio osmeh. voli da kaže da “niko nije ostrvo”. tako se i ponaša. on je biznismen posebnog kova, završio je hemiju, radio u vladinim institucijama, potom se posvetio privatnom poslu, od pre desetak godina piše. bajke. “fairy tales of the deep” je o dečaku koji uz pomoć morske kornjače uspeva da povrati svoju izgubljenu ljubav. bio je producent filma o siročadima iz vijetnamskog rata “who are the debolts? and where did they get 19 kids?” koji je 1978. dobio oskara za najbolji dokumentarni film.

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a.f. vandevorst or question the heroic approach

bračni i kreativni par iz belgije (an vandevorst and filip arickx = a.f. vandevorst) išao je čak u peru po inspiraciju. znam da neko ko je iz perua zasigurno voli njihove kreacije – lily gatins. kada su se vratili kući izvukli su boje iz svog tog šarenila anda i nastala je ova kolekcija a/w 15/16.  neki kažu apokaliptična. ok. apokaliptična.  i eklektična. potomci inka, španci, kondori, veliki šeširi, beli prah, crne maske…, sve se to sjatilo u ovoj kolekciji. pitam špil “više od stotinu korisnih dilema” briana enoa i petera schmidta šta je ta kolekcija i dobijam odgovor “zaobilaznih strategija“: “preispitaj herojski pristup“. o, da, njihov pristup je i ovog puta herojski. i art. belgijanci i japanci imaju to herojstvo u pristupu modi. hrabrost da se ide bez kompromisa. umetnost građena na neprikosnovenom zanatu. makers & artists!

pitam se da li jan fabre zaluta u antwerpenu do njih… videla sam ih u istom filmu  koji je snimio dirk braeckman za louisa vuittona 2013.

***

married and creative couple from belgium (an vandevorst and filip arickx = a.f. vandevorst) went even to peru by inspiration. i know that someone who is from peru certainly loves their creations – lily gatins! when they returned home they got the colors from all this colorful andes and created this collection a / w 15/16. some people say apocalyptic. ok. apocalyptic. and eclectic. descendants of the incas, spaniards, condors , big hats, white powder, black masks …  that all flocked to this collection. i am asking deck “more than a hundred useful dilemma” of brian eno and peter schmidt,  what is this collection about and i’ve got a response “strategies oblique“: “you need to reassess heroic approach.”oh, yes. their approach is and this time the heroic. and art. belgians and japanese have that heroism in the approach to fashion. the courage to go without compromise. art built on the inviolable craft. makers & artists! i wonder if jan fabre in antwerp strays to them… i saw them in the same movie which was filmed by dirk braeckman for louis vuitton 2013.

#Aflagship prozorska instalacija u njihovom butiku koja izgleda zanimljivije od nekih izloga naših muzeja…

a.f. vandevorst

njihova revija/performance u belgijskoj amabasadi u parizu na pfw 1/w 15

a-f-vandevorst-008-1366

a-f-vandevorst-009-1366

photo by andrei zozulya davidov

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hands, pina and georgia. and yohji

directed by lee yanor

i dalje ne mogu da zaboravim reči koje je izgovorio yohji yamamoto: “for me, a woman who is absorbed in her work, who does not care about gaining one’s favour, strong yet subtle at the same time, is essentially more seductive. the more she hides and abandons her femininity, the more it emerges from the very heart of her existence.”  kakva oda pravoj ženskoj lepoti… a živimo u svetu koji je muški. nekako se potrude da nas svedu na dekoraciju. ili na nešto još gore. ne i yohji. volim ga i zbog toga. a o vezi između pine bausch i njega i georgie i njega već sam pisala. ovaj post je priča o njima dvema. i njhovim rukama. one su samo jedna tačka bliskosti (pob/ratimstva lica u svemiru, kao što tin ujević reče) između njih dve. sličnost njihovih unutrašnjih lepota…

prvo “portret” ruku georgie O’keeffe(1887-1986) koje je uradio alfred stieglitz. koji je prvo imao mišljenje slično yamamotu, ali je kasnije duh, talenat i uspeh koji je imala georgia postao preteško breme za njega, pa je zaboravio to što je nekad znao.

***

still cannot forget the words spoken by yohji yamamoto: : “for me, a woman who is absorbed in her work, who does not care about gaining one’s favour, strong yet subtle at the same time, is essentially more seductive. the more she hides and abandons her femininity, the more it emerges from the very heart of her existence.” what an ode to the true female beauty… and we live in a world that is a men’s men’s world. somehow they make the effort to reduce us only to decoration or to something worse, but not yohji. i love him  because of that and about the link between pina bausch and him and georgie i have already written. this post is a story about the two of them. and about their hands.. . they are only one point of closeness (brotherhood of persons in the universe, as poet tin ujević said) between the two of them the similarity of their internal beauty …

firstly “portrait”of georgia o’keeffe” hands, which was made by alfred stieglitz, who firstly had a similar opinion like yamamoto, but later the spirit, talent and success that georgia had become a heavy burden for him, and he forgot what he once knew…

alfred stieglitz, hands, 1919

Alfred Stieglitz</p><br />
<p><br /><br />
GEORGIA O’KEEFFE – HANDS AND THIMBLE

alfred stieglitz, hands and thimble, 1919

alfred stieglitz, hands and horse skull, 1931

alfred stieglitz, hand on back tire of ford V8, 1933

 

alfred stieglitz, portrait georgia o’keeffe,1920

O'Keeffe-(hands).jpg

alfred stieglitz, hands, 1918

georgia by alfred

“i wondered at my hand…my left one as i saw it on the last printed page of the last book…and my mind wandered to the prints of my hands… i moved to get up to look for them…no…the other hand reached for the book…. so i sat looking at the hand—then at them both…i’ve looked at them often today—they have looked so white and smooth and wonderfu …i’ve wondered if they were really mine…”

“my hands had always been admired…but I never though much about it.”

(georgia O’keeffe)

a sada pina bausch (1940-2009). primećujete li tolike sličnosti, pa i vizuelne između njih dve, dođe kao retoričko pitanje…

and now pina bausch. (1940-2009) if you have noticed  many similarities between the two of them , even the visual , and that came as a rhetorical question…

opet inserti iz filma “coffee with pina” koji je uradio lee yanor

and again clips from lee yanor’s movie “coffee with pina”…

photo by walter vogel

photograph: thomas lohnes/AFP/getty images

photo donata wenders

&  za kraj opet yohji yamamoto,  hands:

Un modèle de la collection printemps-été 1992, en hommage à Pina Bausch, présenté au Victoria & Albert Museum. (V&A Images)

yohji yamamoto s/s 2009 / doru covrig “hands”

don’t do that jacket • yohji yamamoto pour homme

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post scriptum / georgia and yohji in my mind

post scriptum:

iliti pobratimstvo lica u svemiru (ponekad i na zemlji već)

završila sam današnji post i  shvatila da moram da dodam ovaj p.s. ona koja je slikala cvetove tako moćno, tako snažno, izjavila je da mrzi cveće. on koji stvara modu koja je bezvremena,  božanstvena, izjavio je da mrzi modu. ovo dvoje ljudi koji se verovatno nikada nisu sreli, ona je 1986. umrla, a njena japanska izložba bila je u tokiju (the seibu museum of art)  posthumno 1988. godine… ali, su očito, odvojeno delili toliko toga u svojim životima…

lepota dobrih energija…

***

post scriptum:

or  brotherhood of persons in the universe (and sometimes on the earth also) i have finished today’s post and i realized that I must add this p.s. she, who painted flowers so strong, so powerful, said that she hates flowers. he, who creates fashion that is timeless, divine, said that he hates fashion. the two people who probably never met, she died in 1986. and her japanese exhibition was in tokyo (the seibu museum of art),  posthumously in 1988… but, obviously, they separately shared so much in their  lives… the beauty of good energies…

( grey line with black, blue and yellow, georgia o keeffe)

yellow Calla, 192c

single lily with red, 1928

(iris, georgia o keeffe)

(georgia O’keeffe)

“i hate flowers – i paint them because they’re cheaper than models and they don’t move. ”

“i know i can not paint a flower. i can not paint the sun on the desert on a bright summer morning but maybe in terms of paint color i can convey to you my experience of the flower or the experience that makes the flower of significance to me at that particular time.”

a flower is relatively small. everyone has many associations with a flower – the idea of flowers. you put out your hand to touch the flower — lean forward to smell it — maybe touch it with your lips almost without thinking — or give it to someone to please them. still — in a way — nobody sees a flower — really — it is so small — we haven’t time — and to see takes time, like to have a friend takes time …”

– georgia O’keeffe

a/w 2009

a/w 1988

Yohji Yamamoto 1995

a/w 1995

540x720

s/s 1998

s/2 2011

yohji yamamoto: i hate fashion.

 claudia riedel: from the beginning until today?

yohji yamamotoyes, i may be making fashion in the sense of craftmanship, but i hate the world of fashion.

claudia riedel: why do you hate it?

yohji yamamoto: fashion sighs after trends. i want timeless elegance. fashion has no time. i do. i say.: hello lady, how can i help you? fashion has no time to even ask such a question, because it is constantly concerned with finding out: what will come next? it is more about helping women to suffer less, to attain more freedom and independence.

 yohji yamamoto

pobratimstvo lica u svemiru

-tin ujević –

ne boj se! nisi sam! ima i drugih nego ti
koji nepoznati od tebe žive tvojim životom.
i ono sve što ti bje, ču i što sni
gori u njima istim žarom, ljepotom i čistotom.

ne gordi se! tvoje misli nisu samo tvoje! one u drugima žive.
mi smo svi prešli iste putove u mraku,
mi smo svi jednako lutali u znaku
traženja, i svima jednako se dive.

sa svakim nešto dijeliš, i više vas ste isti.
i pamti da je tako od prastarih vremena.
i svi se ponavljamo, i veliki i čisti,
kao djeca što ne znaju još ni svojih imena.

i snagu nam, i grijehe drugi s nama dijele,
i sni su naši sami iz zajednickog vrela.
i hrana nam je duše iz naše opće zdjele,
i sebični je pečat jedan nasred čela.

***

brotherhood of persons in the universe – tin ujević

“do not be afraid! you are not alone! there are also others like you

 that’s unknown of you,  living their lives. “

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