Monthly Archives: Studeni 2013

style icon – anna karina

kate beckinsale kao anna

a tribute to ‘roller girl’ from 1967’s anna,  french musical comedy film directed by pierre koralnik (written by serge gainsbourg)

jason wu: “i was inspired by the french new wave films, actresses like jean seberg and anna karina, that nonchalant chic, that effortless style, mixed with american sportswear.”

alexa chung model, dj, urednica britanskog izdanja vogue takođe je inspirisana ličnošću i stilom anne karine.

kolekcija jesen/zima 2011 petera jensena takođe je inspirisana annom.  peter jensen je danac, kao i anna…

francuska dizajnerka i veliki obožavalac godarda agnes b. 2007. je stvorila kolekciju gore.

stilista i make up artist stacey nishimoto odaje joj počast ovako…

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Une femme est une femme

ona je imala 20 godinu, a on 30. snimao je film “mali vojnik” (koji je kada se pojavio, zbog svog odnosa prema ratu u alžiru bio zabranjen) u ženevi. annu je prvi put video u nekakvoj palmolive reklami. tako je ona postala glumica kod  jednog od najvećih reditelja ever. (postoji film pre godarda i film posle godarda.”  – truffaut)

anna je imala dečka slikara i povela ga je na snimanje filma. jedno veče otišli su svi zajedno na večeru do lozane. u jednom momentu osetila je  ruku ispod stola. jean luc godard joj je stavio cedulju u ruku. on se vratio u ženevu sam. na cedulji je pisalo: “volim te. dođi u ponoć u café de la prez.”  njen dečko je video poruku. ana je otišla. i postala muza.

njihov odnos je od početka do kraja bio buran. ne znam i kakav bi drugačiji mogao da bude. on je opsesivno bio obuzet svojom umetnošću, ona je patila zbog toga. snimali su zajedno i kada su raskinuli. i opet se svađali. pokušavali i prestajali.

rođena je kao hanne karin bayer. u kopenhagenu. onda je postala anna karina.

ostala je zauvek ikona stila, ikona novog talasa… bila je fotomodel, glumica, režiser, pevačica…

 

ANNA KARINA

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in the mood

wong kar wai

šangaj

hong kong

estetika

estetika

etika

(WKW: i never want to make beautiful pictures. i just want to make sure it’s right.)

post-produkcija

muzika

zvuk

atmosfera

metod ( at the cinema society premiere of blueberry last night, fellow director ang lee recalled visiting wong on set years ago. “nothing happens, for hours. it’s just the way he shoots. nobody knows what’s happening, not even the actors.)

melanholija

svetlo

senke

erotika

jean luc godard

michelangelo antonioni

crveno

čežnja

prigušeno

noć

crne naočari (thr: tell me the story of your sunglasses. you are never seen without them, right?

wong: no [i am not]. it’s just a habit to remind me i am working.)

wong kar wai

u čast njegovog filma “in the mood for love” uređeni su mnogi zanimljivi modni editorijali… ferre mu je posvetio parfem koji jako volim…

gianfranco ferre, in the mood for love

2046

model: kyung-an song

editorial: in the mood for love

magazine: fashion magazine, september 2005

photographer: gabor jurina:

xxx

elle vietnam, an le studio (foto gore)

hilary walsh je za paper planes  u decembru 2010. godine uradila ove fotografije inspirisane filmom “in the mood for love”

Wang Xiao, Lily Zhi, Zhao Lei, Lincoln Pilcher, vogue china, i am not a celebrity, kate mcauley

još jedan editorial inspirisan wong kar waiem filmom “in the mood for love” , china vogue 

Wang Xiao, Lily Zhi, Zhao Lei, Lincoln Pilcher, vogue china, i am not a celebrity, kate mcauley

inspired by  “in the mood for love” and the “2046”, here’s amber valletta by steven meisel for vogue italia october 2001.

 

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art meets fashion

W Magazine Jessica Chastain 01 Jessica Chastain | W Magazine

jessica chastain, w magazine, januar 2013.

januarski broj magazima w imao je editorial  naslovljen:”art meets fashion”. model glumica jessica chastain. bila je muza za četvoricu umetnika. oni su george condo, rineke dijkstra, chantal joffe i mickalene thomas.

W Magazine Jessica Chastain 10 Jessica Chastain | W Magazine

W Magazine Jessica Chastain 05 Jessica Chastain | W Magazine

W Magazine Jessica Chastain 09 Jessica Chastain | W Magazine

a  evo jessice opet u ulozi muze, ovog puta ispred objektiva annie leibovitz za decembarsko izdanje američkog magazina vogue. fotografije su homage nekim velikim slikarima…

homage to the famous 1895 flaming june painting by frederic leighton.

homage to felix vallotton’s 1924 paintinf le retour de la mar


anders zorn’s 1899 portrait of frances folsom cleveland.

homage klimtu

homage i van goghu, la mousme, 1888

rené magritte’s la robe du soir, 1955

 manifesto, yves saint laurent, 2012

jessica je sjajna glumica. za mene je njena najbolja uloga ona u malickovom filmu  “drvo života”. mada je već u paćinovoj “salome” bilo jasno da se radi o kvalitetnoj glumici. odaje utisak prefinjene, stabilne i senzibilne osobe. a sjajno se snašla i u ulozi modela.  evo šta kaže o modi:

“kad se odijevam za svečane prilike, uvijek imam na umu dojam koji želim ostaviti. haljine biram po emocionalnoj reakciji na njih, a kad konačno odaberem jednu, uvijek imam i rezervu! odem na modni tjedan u pariz, sjedim u prvom redu i pokušavam suspregnuti suze. modom otkrivam točno kako se osjećam!”

a ovako je nedavno u nyc jessica chastain intervjuisala karla lagerfelda:

JC : Do you consider yourself a modern day Oscar Wilde?

KL: I hope I will end up a little better.

JC: Did you like going to school?

KL: I was never interested in going to school with the rest of those idiots.

JC: What do you do for fun?

KL: admire people who destroy themselves

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devil or Angel

lou za barney’s fall 2013

lou doillon je prošle godine izdala svoj album prvenac “places” i svojim pesmama, šarmom, glasom, jednostavnošću i toplinom kojom zrači ostavila bez daha. što se mene tiče prevazišla je svoju majku, jane birkin. a tako bi i trebalo da bude, da nove generacije budu bolje.  i evo je i kao model. lep model!nesvakidašnji baš. melanholičan kao njene pesme. žena-dete. njen stil je oda prirodnosti i jednostavnosti. gotovo nenašminkana. bez tzv. frizure.:-) i jasno je da se radi o osobi sa sadržajem i dubinom. njeni su:  naslovna stranica u turskom izdanju vogue magazina za novembar 2013., kampanja all about lou za njujorški barneys i isabel marant za h&m. zaslužila je svu tu pažnju.

barneys nyc all about lou

lou by inez vinoodh

barneys

barneys

barneys

Lou Doillon at Mad. Ave. Windows

lou

http://instagram.com/p/eG_5U-moP-/

Lou Doillon

lou za turski vogue, novembar 2013. photo: serge leblon.

vogue, turska, nov. 2013

spot  by inez & vinoodh,  lou i njen alter-ego marioneta

za novembarski američki elle rekla je:

“my role models are patti smith, nina simone, and fiona apple—the girls who have the balls to say they’re girls. in a modern world where a majority of women say, i don’t need you, i’ve got my money, i’ve got my stuff, ’ i say, i desperately need men. my whole album is a tribute to men. it takes a man in me to tell you that i’m on my knees for men.”

how she’s learned from her famous mother’s flaws and insecurities:
“if your aim is to be the most beautiful one, you’re fucked. the outside shell is not going to stay faithful to us.”

pametnica, zar ne?

devil or Angel

I’ll never quite understand why we love to carry on walls, as we do
I haven’t yet opened the doors that your bullets are already flying through

And I wish you start claiming you surrender,
Lay down the gun if you do
You accuse me of standing guard
But wouldn’t you
Honey you are so quick to skip from praise to slender
Devil or angel I’m not one or the other
And I’m sorry if I, if I disappoint you, so

And I’ll never know where to stand
But now your hail break through
And I haven’t yet said a word that retaliation troups are on their way

And I wish you start claiming you surrender,
Lay down the gun if you do
You accuse me of standing guard
But wouldn’t you
Honey you are so quick to skip from praise to slender
Devil or angel I’m not one or the other
And I’m sorry if I, if I disappoint you, so

Lou Doillon

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godard

„postoji lepota i postoje obespravljeni. kolika god bila težina tog poduhvata, želja mi je ne biti neveran ni lepoti ni obespravljenima.”

albert camus>

“Yes, there is beauty and there are the humiliated. Whatever the difficulties the enterprise may present, I would like never to be unfaithful either to one or the other.”

uz ovu priču o godardu i modi rečenica gore mi je savršeno prikladna.

u svakom slučaju ne podcenjujem one koji cene istinski lepo i imam veliku nadu da im je podjednako stalo do dobrog.

a on, jean luc godard, od tih je.

na sajtu open culture pronašla sam njegovu reklamu za nekakav after-shave iz 1970. mladi par, neglamurozni kao i stan u kome je snimljeno, u pozadini sa tv čuju se vesti iz palestine…

to je ta priča…

to je taj čovek, camusov.

nosilac neglamuroznog, a stylish. svoj. poseban. čoveka sve čini čovekom, pa i odelo…

richard brody kaže da mu je godardov kolega charles bitsch  rekao da se od svih njih iz francuskog novog talasa godard odvajao i svojim  dandyish stilom. crne naočari, odelo, bela košulja, kravata, šešir, rukavice… i da je već njegoav pojava otkrivala da nije bilo ko, da ima ličnost…

takvi su i likovi iz njegovih filmskih priča. ali o njihovom stilu u drugom postu.

beauty is composed of an eternal, invariable element whose quantity is extremely difficult to determine, and a relative element which might be, either by turns or all at once, period, fashion, moral, passion.

jean-luc godard

godard i bardot na snimanju “le mepris”

godard danas

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she’s a model and she’s looking good…

nico (rođena kao christa päffgen)

16.10.1938 – 18.07.1988.

nico

bila je model, glumica, rokerka… bila je neko. neko poseban. u rimu ju je zapazio fellini. i dao joj ulogu u la dolce vita. učila je potom glumu u nyc u lee strassberg školi. govorila  sedam jezika. bila fatalna. misteriozna. umrla nakon pada sa bicikla usled moždanog udara, na ostrvu koje je mnogo volela, na ibizi. vegetarijanac. uživalac droga. nihilista. warholova muza. jedna od velveta. ljubav nekih slavnih muzičara, fotografa i glumaca… devojčica koja je odrasla u vreme 2. svetskog rata u berlinu. ostala bez oca koji je umro u koncentracionom logoru. posvetili su joj mnoge pesme. leonard cohen ‘take this longing”…

Many men have loved the bells
You fastened to the rein,
And everyone who wanted you
They found what they will always want again.
Your beauty lost to you yourself
Just as it was lost to them.

Oh take this longing from my tongue,
Whatever useless things these hands have done.
Let me see your beauty broken down
Like you would do for one you love.

Your body like a searchlight
My poverty revealed,
I would like to try your charity
Until you cry, “Now you must try my greed.”
And everything depends upon
How near you sleep to me

Just take this longing from my tongue
All the lonely things my hands have done.
Let me see your beauty broken down
Like you would do for one your love.

Hungry as an archway
Through which the troops have passed,
I stand in ruins behind you,
With your winter clothes, your broken sandal straps.
I love to see you naked over there
Especially from the back.

Oh take this longing from my tongue,
All the useless things my hands have done,
Untie for me your hired blue gown,
Like you would do for one that you love.

You’re faithful to the better man,
I’m afraid that he left.
So let me judge your love affair
In this very room where I have sentenced
Mine to death.
I’ll even wear these old laurel leaves
That he’s shaken from his head.

Just take this longing from my tongue,
All the useless things my hands have done,
Let me see your beauty broken down,
Like you would do for one you love.
Like you would do for one you love.

leonard cohen o nico,1992., “throat culture” :

I gave her that song. She sang it to me a couple times but never recorded it. Nico was very strange. I tried to talk to her and she always replied very mysteriously. No matter what you said she always replied in a curious fashion. It was only after many weeks, after being perplexed by her conversation and paralyzed by her beauty that she told me she was deaf. She responded to everyone with whatever came into her mind because she could hardly hear a thing. Which explains her particularly strange style. But I definitely wrote “Take This Longing” thinking of her.

kad je svet još bio mlad…

 

 

a candid shot of nico during her modeling days.

1959 - filming La Dolce Vita

snimanje “la dolce vita”

nico i fellini

nico i warhol

nico i lou reed

ponekad je na turnejama sa velvetima vozila kamion…

nico i leonard cohen

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identity


yohji yamamoto

“Start copying what you love. Copy copy copy copy. At the end of the copy you will find yourself.”
Yohji Yamamoto 


rodio se ratne 1943. godine i u tom ratu izgubio je oca. prvo je studirao pravo, a onda se sasvim ozbiljno zainteresovao za krojački rad svoje majke. tih je, posvećen, odmeren… ali i nepredvidiv. i strastven. nije tek tako nazvao svoju knjigu “my dear bomb”… nosilac je crnog pojasa u karateu. sarađivao sa pinom bausch. svirao gitaru. bio u ljubavnoj i poslovnoj vezi sa rei kawakubo. otac mlade (i dobre) kreatorke limi. preživeo je bankrot pre nekoliko godina. kada nabraja svoje omiljene umetnike prvo pominje wendersa, onda: bob dylana, pinu bausch, man raya, andy warhola, picassa, klimta…1989. wenders je, po narudžbi centre george pompidou, snimio dokumentarni film o njemu: “notebook on cities and clothes”. a sve je počelo kupovinom jedne jakne i jedne košulje sa potpisom yamamota. wenders koji nije od onih koji puno mare za modu, kaže da se u njima osetio zaštićeno, kao vitez u oklopu i da su mu ta dva komada garderobe pokrenula sećanja na oca. yamamoto, pak, kaže da na svog oca nema nikakva sećanja… magazin interview objavio je razgovor njih dvojice. yamamoto je obećao wendersu da će ga na svojoj sledećoj reviji u berlinu pozvati da prošeta pistom… to bih volela da vidim.

wenders  & yamamoto

iako nisam pušač slažem sa yamamotom kada kaže da se i cigarete i alkohol prodaju legalno u većini zemalja, ali da on koji voli da puši ne sme nigde da puši unutra, nego kao kriminalac mora da izlazi napolje, a alkohol iako menja svest ljudi i pod njegovim uticajem ljudi mogu da učine i zločine slobodno se konzumira svuda…

5CUTS_still
“A gentleman is somebody who knows isolation, sadness and knows how to sacrifice himself.”
-yamamoto
WENDERS: Do you still play guitar?
YAMAMOTO: Not anymore. I no longer have emotion for playing guitar or making music. If I do it again, then maybe the title of the song I play will be “Goodbye.”
WENDERS: Let me know if you change your mind, because I loved your music. I wish I could still play the saxophone but I’ve lost the habit.
YAMAMOTO: The saxophone?
WENDERS: Yes, I used to play the saxophone. But it’s been too long since I’ve played, and if you don’t keep it up, then it’s probably the same as what happens with your fingers and playing guitar—your mouth doesn’t have the feeling for it anymore.
YAMAMOTO: Yes. You have to be dedicated. I also don’t have much time now because Keiko and I recently started living with a baby dog, which is a big responsibility. I cannot go out at night, because none of the coffee shops or restaurants accept animals in Japan.

You live wherever you live,
You do whatever work you do,
You talk however you talk,
You eat whatever you eat,
You wear whatever clothes you wear,
You look at whatever images you see…

YOU’RE LIVING HOWEVER YOU CAN.
YOU ARE WHOEVER YOU ARE.
“Identity”…
of a person,
of a thing,
of a place.
“Identity”,
The word itself gives me shivers.
It rings of calm, comfort, contendedness.
What is it, identity?
To know where you belong?
To know you self worth?
To know who you are?
How do you recognize identity?
We are creating an image of ourselves.
We are attempting to resemble this image…
Is that what we call identity?
The accord
between the image we have created of ourselves
and … ourselves?
Just who is that, “ourselves”?
We live in the cities.
The cities live in us …
time passes.
We move from one city  to another,
from one country to another.
We change languages,
we change habits,
we change opinions,
we change clothes,
we change everything.
Everything changes. And fast.
Everything is copy.
 Images above all…
change faster and faster
and they have been multiplying at a hellish rate
ever since the explosion that unleashed the electronic images.
They are the images that are
now replacing photography.
We have learned to trust the photographic image.
Can we trust the electronic image?
With painting everything was simple.
The original was the original,
and each copy was a copy – a forgery.
With photography and then film that began to get complicated.
The original was a negative.
Without a print, it did not exist,
just the opposite,
each copy was the original.
But now with the electronic,
and soon the digital,
there is no more negative and no more positive.
The very notion of the original is obsolete.
Everything is a copy.
All distinctions have become arbitrary.
No wonder the idea of identity finds itself in such a feeble state.
Identity is out,
out of fashion.
Exactly.
Then what is in vogue,
if not fashion itself?
By definition,
fashion is always in.
Identity and fashion,
are the two contradictory?””
wim wenders & yohji yamamoto

“smatram da je savršenstvo ružno. u stvarima koje ljudi čine, želim da vidim i ožiljke, neuspeh, poremećaj, iskrivljenje. ako je nešto savršeno nije zanimljivo” yohji yamamoto.

pina bausch i yamamoto

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pro et contra

julian schnabel, photo / annie leibovitz

julian schnabel najčešće nosi karo flanelske košulje i pidžame (pidžame su j. crew!), naslikao je sliku “smrt mode”, ali ćete ga videti i na manifestacijama kao što je fashion week, azzedine alaia, jedan od modnih bogova,  mu je blizak prijatelj . kaže da “smrt mode” koju je naslikao 1978. manifestuje ono što misli o modi, da je reč o prolaznoj, ograničenoj, sasvim ljudskoj stvari. ceni rad modnih dizajnera, ali smatra da je pogrešno porediti modu i umetnost. moda je po njemu, dakle nešto ograničeno, a umetnost probija te granice. ali, kaže da se od onog najboljeg u modi može naučiti lekcija o žeđi za lepotom. o tome je pričao u svom filmu “ronilačko zvono i leptir”, koji je istinita priča o uredniku francuskog modnog časopisa “elle” jean-dominique baubyju koji nakon života bonvivana usled iznenadnog moždanog udara zavisi jedino od komunikacije pokretima jednog oka i od svoje mašte, tog leptira u ronilačkom zvonu u kom je zarobljen, leptira koji će ga izvući napolje. po schnabelu mašta i žeđ za lepotom su naša jedina šansa da se spasemo, baš kao i jean-dominiqueu. i podcrtava da lepota kojoj je cilj tek ulepšavanje, a nema dimenziju humanosti i nije lepota!


julian schnabel the death of fashion, 1978.

schnabel & yamamoto

ovaj drugi čovek koji drži takođe do jedinstva lepote i dobrote je chris dercon, sadašnji prvi čovek tate modern. druži se sa muiccia pradom, nosi samo prada cipele, njegova pojava odiše stilom, često nosi lepe šaleve u raznim bojama… nedavno je gostovao u zagrebu i u intervjuu jutarnjem rekao je:

moda i umjetnost imaju puno toga zajedničkog: slavu, promjenu, davanje identiteta, skrivanje. moda je plitka samo naoko, ispod se skriva velika dubina.”

chris dercon

c. dercon i yayoi kusama 

dercon

patti smith and chris dercon

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artist & models 1

umetnici i moda idu ruku pod ruku od… od odavno.  ne znam da li je pisac epa o gilgamešu mario za modu, ili  arhitekta keopsove piramide, ali znam da je npr. oscar wilde jeste. ako ne mislimo na modu usko, kao na jurnjavu za trendovima. on je i rekao: “napokon, šta je moda? sa umetničke tačke gledišta to je obično izraz ružnoće, toliko nepodnošljive da smo prisiljeni da je menjamo svakih šest meseci.”

sofia coppola za louis vuitton

sofia and f. f. coppola

louis vuittonu je 2008. godine pošlo za rukom da i francis ford coppolu privoli da učestvuje u jednoj njihovoj kampanji.  annie leibovitz ga je snimila sa kćerkom u selu izvan buenos airesa. kampanju prati slogan: “inside every story, there is a beautiful journey”…

lou doillon je odradila nekoliko kampanja za vanessu bruno. i još za neke druge…

lou

lou doillon za vanessu bruno

james franco & marina abramović, l’uomo vogue, september 2013, total looks gucci, fashion editor rushka bergman, photo by francesco carrozzini.

treba li bolja kombinacija?

James Franco

nastaviće se.

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