Monthly Archives: Svibanj 2014

black and fashion

ovde gde ja živim crna boja je simbol tuge, žalosti, bola, smrti. moj doživljaj crne je: dostojanstveni, elegantni, ponosni minimalizam. i naravno, ne postoji jedna crna, široka je njena paleta… a o njenom tretmanu kroz istoriju i na različitim stranama sveta, da i ne govorim… različiti smo… mi nekada, i mi ovde i  vi tamo…

japan fashion now – formalism and revolution : rei kawakubo and yohji yamamoto – in praise of shadows : symbolism of the color black by patricia mears

black has been the power color for many centuries in europe. for example, during the 1600s it was worn by members of the spanish nobility and their catholic hierarchy, as well as the burgomasters and protestant extremists of the northern lowlands. black, especially when combined with a billowing silhouette, moved among academics and monks, and widows and nuns, to signal scholarship, piety, and sexual inaccessibility. black robes, academic or clerical, all but erased the corporeal body. (note the similar effect the chador has on women in some islamic countries.) by the nineteenth century, it shrouded those in the arena of anti-establishment intellectuals. black clothes, especially if they were tattered, were not the uniform of the immaculately groomed dandy but rather that of romantic artists, the bohemians, and, a century later, the beatniks, and the punks.

Jaks.

kazimir maljevič sa studentima

the roots – the seed (2.0) ft. cody chesnutt

zinedine zidane and yohji yamamoto

diane pernet, uvek u crnom

rei kawakubo (photo by irving penn)

rick owens and michele lamy

 ann demeulemeester and patti smith

boris bidjan saberi

maxwell osborne, public school, black apple

rog walker (photo bee walker)

bee walker

knjiga o crnoj boji, prevedena i na srpski, izdanje službenog glasnika, 2010

mišel pasturo podseća da se reč “boja“ – color vezuje za latinski glagol cerare – sakriti, obuhvatiti, zataškavati.  “boja je ono što krije, pokriva, obmotava. boja je materijalna realnost, sloj, druga koža, površina koja skriva telo. na to, uostalom upućuje i grčka reč khroma (boja) od khros – koža, telesna površina; ili u nemačkom jeziku farbe (od starogermanske reči farwa – oblik, koža, omotač).” (ivana maksić u časopisu “polja” o jednoj drugoj knjizi mišela pasturoa)tako nekako i yamamoto misli o ženskoj odeći: 

 ”my favourite method is hiding body, covering body. for me, it can be male or female, but when people are wearing something baggy they look so sexy. because i imagine what’s inside. so like today, short hotpants and, this like (makes a gesture of a low cut top)… young people are showing too much. it’s so direct. no sexual attraction. so please hide.”

                                                                                                        (yamamoto)

Oglasi

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the world is blue

mi koji nismo iz zemalja koje izlaze na more kao da imamo posebnu žal za plavim. i beskrajnim. aboubakar fofana je iz malija koji takođe nema more. rođen je 1967. u bamaku. umetnik, kaligraf, dizajner tekstila, maker… od njega tekstil kupuju donna karan, urban zen, edun…

aboubakar fofana

aboubakar fofana  je od svoje desete živeo u francuskoj. ali, nije zaboravio zelene listove koji, kao magijom, prave čudesnu indigo plavu.  zato stvara na tom prirodno plavom jeziku. otrgnuo je od zaborava stvaranje plavog prirodnim, organskim, putem, od bilja i plodova… išao je do japana da kod čuvenog akiyama masukazu izučava ono što ovaj japanski majstor  zna o tome. i kaligrafski zanat takođe je učio. i naučio. i razvio. baš kao francuski umetnik yves klein ima interesovanja za orijentalno (obojica su putovali zbog učenja u japan). zajednička im je i ljubav za plavo, naravno! i za beskonačno!  hvatajući beskonačno putovao je od malija, do francuske, do japana i širom sveta tako, nesebično učeći druge ono što sam zna… u svom rodnom maliju osnovao je edukativni centar u koji dolaze oni željni saznanja kako se organski gaji pamuk, kako se od zelenog dobija plavo, tajnu te biljke indigo… afrički simbolizam i misticizam spojio je sa istočnjačkim. i to jako dobro…

aboubakar fofana and masakazu akiyama

interview

les arbres à bleus is a metaphor, its materiality (cotton) and colour (ndigo) proclaiming that it is part of the vegetable world. the indigo plant produces an unimaginable range of blue shades, from palest sky to deepest midnight, the descriptions reflecting the practice of soninké dyers of asking their customers for their preferred shades by looking at the sky. as in a landscape, no two trees are alike. the scarifications on some reflect their distinctive personalities and define their genetic code. they denote their allegiance to a group, a family or community, as much as the different shades of blue reveal their differences. symbolizing the link between heaven and earth, these trees/totems form a symbolic forest. the ‘fruits’ scattered on the ground suggest the abundance and generosity of nature – a garden of eden on a path of discovery. the tree is the most important and sacred symbol in bambara thought – a ladder of salvation, a divine route to knowledge. (cottonglobalthreads)

yves klein

blue has no dimensions; it is beyond dimensions, whereas the other colours are not… all colours arouse specific associative ideas… while blue suggests at most the sea and sky, and they, after all, are in actual, visible nature what is most abstract. (yves klein)

fotografije sa bloga koji vodi sjajna latte lisa

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