black and fashion

ovde gde ja živim crna boja je simbol tuge, žalosti, bola, smrti. moj doživljaj crne je: dostojanstveni, elegantni, ponosni minimalizam. i naravno, ne postoji jedna crna, široka je njena paleta… a o njenom tretmanu kroz istoriju i na različitim stranama sveta, da i ne govorim… različiti smo… mi nekada, i mi ovde i  vi tamo…

japan fashion now – formalism and revolution : rei kawakubo and yohji yamamoto – in praise of shadows : symbolism of the color black by patricia mears

black has been the power color for many centuries in europe. for example, during the 1600s it was worn by members of the spanish nobility and their catholic hierarchy, as well as the burgomasters and protestant extremists of the northern lowlands. black, especially when combined with a billowing silhouette, moved among academics and monks, and widows and nuns, to signal scholarship, piety, and sexual inaccessibility. black robes, academic or clerical, all but erased the corporeal body. (note the similar effect the chador has on women in some islamic countries.) by the nineteenth century, it shrouded those in the arena of anti-establishment intellectuals. black clothes, especially if they were tattered, were not the uniform of the immaculately groomed dandy but rather that of romantic artists, the bohemians, and, a century later, the beatniks, and the punks.

Jaks.

kazimir maljevič sa studentima

the roots – the seed (2.0) ft. cody chesnutt

zinedine zidane and yohji yamamoto

diane pernet, uvek u crnom

rei kawakubo (photo by irving penn)

rick owens and michele lamy

 ann demeulemeester and patti smith

boris bidjan saberi

maxwell osborne, public school, black apple

rog walker (photo bee walker)

bee walker

knjiga o crnoj boji, prevedena i na srpski, izdanje službenog glasnika, 2010

mišel pasturo podseća da se reč “boja“ – color vezuje za latinski glagol cerare – sakriti, obuhvatiti, zataškavati.  “boja je ono što krije, pokriva, obmotava. boja je materijalna realnost, sloj, druga koža, površina koja skriva telo. na to, uostalom upućuje i grčka reč khroma (boja) od khros – koža, telesna površina; ili u nemačkom jeziku farbe (od starogermanske reči farwa – oblik, koža, omotač).” (ivana maksić u časopisu “polja” o jednoj drugoj knjizi mišela pasturoa)tako nekako i yamamoto misli o ženskoj odeći: 

 ”my favourite method is hiding body, covering body. for me, it can be male or female, but when people are wearing something baggy they look so sexy. because i imagine what’s inside. so like today, short hotpants and, this like (makes a gesture of a low cut top)… young people are showing too much. it’s so direct. no sexual attraction. so please hide.”

                                                                                                        (yamamoto)

Oglasi

2 thoughts on “black and fashion

  1. Jos jedan plezir si pruzila ovim postom.Nebrojeno puta sam (i jos uvek) razmisljala na ovu temu koja vuce duboke politicke, socijalne i religijske korene, kao sto si lepo objasnila. No, na nasu srecu uvek ce biti crne te cemo uvek moci sebe pronaci u istoj na ovaj ili onaj nacin.

    xx

    Liked by 1 person

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