Monthly Archives: Lipanj 2014

desperadosi sa istoka

bruce springsteen

kakva je to spona koja vezuje usamljenike o kojima peva bruce springsteen sa (divljeg) zapada i dizajnera sa (dalekog) istoka? yang li je uz dream, baby dream stvorio kolekciju a/w 14 the dreamer,  a pre neki dan na nedelji muške mode u parizu yohji yamamoto je na scenu izveo svoje desperadose. da li smo mogli da slutimo da će genijalni istočnjak da nas povede na divlji zapad, da uvede jeans uz usnu harmoniku springsteena? ja ne. i taaako sam prijatno iznenađena. u svetu u kojem sve manje stvari uspeva da me iznenadi pozitivno…

 

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yohji yamamoto spring/summer 2015, photo federica fioravanti

Yohji Yamamoto   Spring/Summer 2015 Collection Runway Show

Yohji Yamamoto   Spring/Summer 2015 Collection Runway Show

Yohji Yamamoto   Spring/Summer 2015 Collection Runway Show

yohji yamamoto s/s 15

photo elise toide

Yohji Yamamoto showroom visit #oldlyric #yohjiyamamoto #paris #showroom #yohjiyamamotopourhomme #ss15

Photo: Yohji Yamamoto showroom visit #oldlyric #yohjiyamamoto #paris #showroom #ss15 #yohjiyamamotopourhomme

yamamoto s/s 2015  oldlyric.com

Screen Shot 2014-03-04 at 11.23.51 AM

yang li, a/w 2014, the dreamer

paradise by the ‘c

bruce springsteen

i search for you on the other side
where the river runs clean and wide
up to my heart the water rise
up to my heart the water risei sink ‘neath the water cool and clear
drifting down, I disappear
i see you on the other side
i search for the peace in your eyes
but they’re as empty as paradise
they’re as empty as paradise
i break above the waves
i feel the sun upon my face
clint EASTwood

 

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style

o svom oduuuuševljenju sajtom style like u  već sam pisala. ovde. da podsetim, majka i kći, elisa goodkind and lily mandelbaum neguju, predstavljaju i slave individualnost, autentičnost i lični stil u ovom suludom vremenu u kojem gradovi i ljudi sve više bezlično  liče  jedni na druge… oh kako volim da svraćam na njihov site… kao da se lično na tren družim sa tim ne-običnim, zanimljivim ljudima koje predstavljaju njih dve. jedan od mojih prelepih izleta od sive stvarnosti. pogotovu ovde i sada. čim izađem na ulicu zapazim gomile žena i muškaraca sa sličnim frizurama, toaletama, aksesoarima… mora da su im i misli slične. to je tužno.  ovaj čovek čije su samo inicijale navele ima taaako dobar stil!!! trenutno ima prvo mesto na mojoj top listi najbolje odevenih ljudi. koreanac rođen u nemačkoj koji živi u new yorku. (baš kao i dizajner siki im) advokat. govori nekoliko jezika. prefinjen ukus. obrazovan. esteta. good looking. s. p. !!! nosi najrađe stvari koje su kreirali: carol christian poell, boris bidjan saberi, paul harnden

His favorite books are: The Hundred Year Old Man Who Climbed Out of the Window and Disappeared by Jonas Jonasson, The Lord of the Rings by J.R.R. Tolkien and The End is My Beginning by Tiziano Terzani. <p>Paul Harnden Jacket</p>

"My black Carol Christian Poell coat and my Boris Bidjan Saberi asymetric leather jacket are my favorite pieces." <p>Carol Christian Poell Boots and Coat, Damir Doma T-shirt, Boris Saberi Pants </p>

 

“the shift to the avant-garde labels that I am wearing right now was in 2007 or 2008. i started hanging out at k.h. comme des garcons everyday. the owner, kurt, he is a crazy dude. the first time i came in he said, ‘sorry, you can’t shop here right now — go home, do your homework, and then come back. kurt always says, ‘these clothes have soul as opposed to mass products.”

"Individualism is not as prevalent [in Korea] as it is in Western countries. I am so happy that I didn't have to go to high school in Korea. It is a very harsh system. When you want to step out and be more unique you will have a hard time." <p>Pants, Boots, Jacket, and Scarf by Boris Saberi, Cardigan by Damir Doma </p>

 

"Maybe I wanted to become a lawyer because of the social culture I grew up in. My dad is a cardiologist. My mom is a psychologist. Koreans joke that you can only study three things: medicine, business, or law." <p>Boris Saberi Suit, Boots by MA+ </p>

 

"Korean culture is based on Confucianism, which is about the value of academic achievement. There is a saying in Korea that is, 'You should treat the teacher equal to the king.'" <p>Boris Saberi Pants, Paul Harnden Jacket</p>

“korean culture is based on confucianism, which is about the value of academic achievement. there is a saying in korea that is, ‘you should treat the teacher equal to the king.'”

"Kurt would just be so rude every time regular people would come into his store. If a girl walked in with a Louis Vuitton bag, Kurt would freak out. He said it is not worth it: 'They do not understand me and I do not understand them.'" Boris Saberi Jacket and Pants, Chrome Hearts and Werkstatt Munchen Jewelery

"The first major shift in the way I dress was the 03-04 collections of Dior Homme by Hedi Slimane. They were so goth, so rock 'n' roll, and so ninja-esque. This was the first time I really got into the dark, edgy, black stuff." <p>Carol Christian Poell Suit, Shirt and Tie by Prada, Homme Dior shoes </p>

"Kurt always says, 'These clothes have soul as opposed to mass products.'" <p>Chrome Hearts and Werkstatt Munchen Jewelry </p>

“you will not find most of these brands [boris saberi, paul harnden] in the vogue magazines. these brands aren’t advertising. they are not giving their clothes for shoots or editorials… i like to be kind of different when  i wear my clothes. people look at you, and they cannot evaluate you. they ask me, ‘oh, are you a jewelry designer?’ i am like, ‘no, i am a lawyer.'”

"The most democratic place in the world is the gym. You are in these sweaty sweatshirts and t-shirts, and you all look the same. When you get out of the gym, and you see a person in their regular clothes, it is a totally different person. That is the moment when you can actually see, 'Oh, clothes make the person.'" <p>Pants, Boots, Jacket, and Scarf by Boris Saberi, Cardigan by Damir Doma, Chrome Hearts and Werkstatt Munchen Jewelry </p>

“the most democratic place in the world is the gym. you are in these sweaty sweatshirts and t-shirts, and you all look the same. when you get out of the gym, and you see a person in their regular clothes, it is a totally different person. that is the moment when you can actually see, ‘oh, clothes make the person.'”

"Food is the second love of my life. I am a real crazy foodie. If it is good I love it and will pay anything for it. But I would mind paying one buck for bad food. I am a highly addictive person. When I like a restaurant I go there easily five times a week. If I like anything I really get into it. You have to be careful if you are like that." <p>Boris Saberi Boots</p>

elisa goodkind.
video edited by andrea cruz

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discord. manje je više!

 

yohji yamamoto se prvi put predstavio sa aksesoarima: 52 komada tašni, novčanika, cipela, marama…  (urađenih u saradnji sa isetan-mitsukoshi holdings). na mnogima su otisnute crno-bele fotografije cvetova koje je načinio sjajni arakawa hiroyuki.  već sam naziv  discord (disharmonija, distorzija…)  i logotip koji čine nesavršene linije, nalik ogrebotinama, upućuju na počast  japanskom wabi-sabi doživljaju estetike, na elegantnu asimetriju, na pogled usmeren na lepotu nesavršenosti… tako različit od našeg, zapadnjačkog poimanja… yamamoto kaže kada je kao student putovao po evropi da mu se nije dopala naša žudnja za simetrijom, u arhitekturi, gotovo svemu…  potreba da se stvari definišu, zaokruže, objasne, razotkriju do kraja…

yohji yamamoto

sam yamamoto ne voli sebe da naziva umetnikom, ali za mene svaki predmet koji je on kreirao je umetničko delo. nedavno sam komunicarala sa devojkom koja živi na drugom kraju sveta i nosi sve te lepe stvari koje dizajniraju i moji omiljeni kreatori i morala sam da je iznenadim, da joj kažem da ne samo da ne posedujem ni jedan odevni njihov predmet, nego da čak in vivo nisam nikada videla nijednu osobu koja ih nosi. što je i razumljivo kada se zna gde živim, u jednoj siromašnoj zemlji skrajnutoj u evropi, u kojoj ni najobrazovaniji ne mogu sebi da priušte luksuzne stvari, već to mogu samo političari, mafijaši, lopovi i tajkuni, a njih alternativna moda baš i ne zanima… ali, rekoh joj da ja zbog toga nisam ni malo tužna, da na kreacije svih tih divnih dizajnera čiji rad neizmerno cenim gledam kao na slike mojih omiljenih slikara. volim npr.  marca chagalla, kazimira malevicha, paula kleea, marka rothkoa…, ali mi je sasvim u redu da ih samo gledam u knjigama, časopisima, online ili u muzejima… bez želje za posedovanjem.  i svaka prilika da vidim negde posredno ili neposredno njihova dela mi greje srce i dušu. čini srećnom… ništa manje nego da ih nekim čudom posedujem i držim na zidovima svog stana…

wabi-sabi…

discord

i’m focused on promoting a ‘cool’ japan and presenting extremely high level cutting-edge japanese aesthetics. basically, it’s a new level of creation seen nowhere else in the world. as a business, these are soft skills, and i think this is about the only thing japan has to export. such being the case, our government is too fixated on promoting anime and characters alone.” (yohji yamamoto)

Yohji Yamamoto Press Conference for “discord,” Whole New Level of Creations

yohji yamamoto press conference for “discord,” whole new level of creations

a tkanine od kojih su sačinjene marame, tkanine od kojih se prave japanska kimona, cvetovi po njima, atmosfera… na tren me podsećaju na nepraviziđenu, neprežaljenu kraljicu kostimogtafije eioko ishioka...

QUEEN'S OF STYLE AGELESS WOMEN

 

QUEEN'S OF STYLE AGELESS WOMEN

eiko ishioka

dissonance

noun

  1. an inharmonious sound or combination of sounds; discord
  2. any lack of harmony or agreement; incongruity
  3. MUSIC a chord that sounds incomplete or unfulfilled until resolved to a harmonious chord

origin of dissonance

middle english dissonaunce ; from late latin dissonantia ; from classical latin dissonans, present participle ofdissonare, to be discordant ; from dis-, apart + sonus, a sound

<discord (D cord)>Asymmetry that TO slips off in dissonant meaning slightly
Factor such as disharmony is expressed.

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