omg, od kako sam danas otkrila da me ke postoji na ovom svetu ne mogu da prestanem da obavljam rudarsko-geološke poslove po internetu. kopam, kopam, kopam, a ne mogu da odlučim šta me od onoga što iskopavam više oduševljava. braćo i sestre, kinezi su (ponovo) tu. ovog puta “made in china” nije pojam za loš kvalitet i kratkotrajnost. ziggy chen, uma wang, ono dvoje genijalnih mladih ljudio oko old lyric… evo i ma ke, to je onaj najbolji spoj starog i novog u kineskoj kulturi, najbolji spoj istoka i zapada… osamdsetih su to bili japanci (i ostali, jer su kvalitetni), a sada su to na zapadu kinezi. ubeđena sam u to.
exception de mixMind 例外 je jedan od najstarijih avadgardnih kineskih modnih brendova. postoje od 1996. godina. iza brenda stoje bivši supružnici dizajnerski dvojac ma ke i mao jihong. ma ke ( (mǎ kě 马可) je 2006. pokrenula artističku etiketu wuyong. wuyong znači beskoristan. ona stvara od onoga što su ljudi odbacili, objekata i tkanina koje su postale beskorisne ljudima. (ona kaže: “u ovo doba teškog komercijalizma stvari koje ne postižu instant rezultate olako se proglašavaju beskorisnim. previše smo fokusirani na kratkoročni dobitak. korisnost stvari sada često se razlikuje od njihove dugoročne, prave vrednosti.”). to što je nekome olako postalo nepotrebni ona posvećeno preobražava u neverovatne lepe nosive stvare. ma ke se, dakle, artistički bavi idejom održivosti u modi, ali i njenom etičkom stranom. ona ima antikonzumerski odnos prema modi. povratak prirodi, poetski pristup življenju, briga o prirodi, o ljudima… anti-moda. koristi ekološki pristup u stvaranju, prednost daje ručnoj proizvodnji, naturalnom u stvaranju, sporom ritmu, verna je tradicionalnom načinu tkanja, veza, bojenja tkanine… i tradiciji uopšte, dajući joj novo ruho u dodiru sa savremenošću… rođena je 1971. u gradu changchu. školovala se u kini i naravno u londonu, na čuvenom central saint martinsu. kineska prva dama kada je putovala u rusiju nosila je exception de mixmind model i od tog momenta postali su veoma traženi, ne samo u kini. mislim da ma ke nije posebno preoduševljena zbog toga. prva wuyong kolekcija (“the earth”) debitovala je na paris fashion weeku, spring/summer 2007, a njena druga kolekcija za wuyong (qing pin) pojavila se na pariskoj nedelji mode 2008. njen studio je u gradu zhuhai, južnoj obali guandong provincije. učestvuje u svim procesima stvaranja odeće… kažu da je njena radionica kao svetilište, mesto za meditaciju i rad… prepuno zelenila, mira, tišine, svetlosti… nerado se pojavljuje u medijima. jednom je nekom novinaru rekla: “ako ste pojeli ukusno jaje, zašto je potrebno da vidite kokošku?”
ona je, zaista, nešto posebno. istinski talenat.
2007. je dobila nagradu za najboljeg azijskog modnog dizajnera, elle style awards.
u maju 2008. njen rad za etiketu wuyoming predstavljen je u londonu, u victoria & albert muzeju.
kolekcija iz 2008.
njen sjajan site za label wuyong: http://www.wuyonguseless.com/
za portal buymedesign.com dala je ovaj neverovatno zanimljiv intervju:
Buymedesign – TL magazine: You said that “Wuyong” (Useless) is not about fashion and cut. Could you explain the concept?
Ma Ke: Wuyong cares about the wearers’ inner feeling much more than the experience of appearance . It values the spiritual state of mind that the clothing could bring along, more than being “sexy and chic or pretty and elegant” . It is like the difference between western and Chinese painting: the western oil painting is fully filled with pigments on the canvas, while the Chinese water-ink painting leaves most space on the paper for further imagination . Wuyong is purely a self-expressing creation without any other purpose . The clothes are like the worn piece of dusty jacket that can present neither your prestige nor your good figure, but it carries memories through the ages .Buymedesign – TLm: Could you describe how you work and the materials you use?Ma Ke: I work with some folk craftsmanship practitioners from the remote countryside of southern China, and I love to create with original materials. We work in a natural and eco-friendly way, which is slow but joyful, similar to the lifestyle of our ancestors. I enjoy what hand-making brings along: a process of self-refinement, a fully devoted state of mind, the touch of the fabric texture, the color changing when the white shirt is put into dyeing . There is nothing astonishing; the work is happening naturally like the fruit falls when it is ripe .
Buymedesign – TLm: What are your inspirations?
Ma Ke: Nature gives me endless inspiration . It fulfills your heart with all the niceness, so much so that you have a strong desire to share with others . I am also inspired by every ethnic group that has kept its traditional lifestyle and lead a rich spiritual life . They are still part of nature, with which they have kept an intimate relation from generation to generation . Relatively speaking, I am more familiar with Chinese and Asian culture, but what I care about, without geographic boundary, is the common spirit these generic ethnic groups are sharing .
TLm: Jia Zhangke’s documentary about Wu Yong showed footage from garment factories in Guangdong . Do you feel you have a social responsibility as a Chinese designer?
Ma Ke: As a designer, I believe that I have the three following responsibilities:
– Ecological responsibility (the responsibility to the future) . The designer must be responsible for any damage caused by the production process to the ecosystem . He must not work for purely commercial interests and to the detriment of the environment, and must preserve natural resources . The designer must also consider the recyclability of his designs in the interest of long-term sustainable development, and not create disposable products .
– Ethical responsibility (the responsibility to the present) . A designer’s sensibility and creativity should be used as a social role to raise awareness . They mustn’t simply be out to please clients . They shouldn’t over-design, instead they ought to express properly, and not provoke unnecessary desires and promote blind consumption in the pursuit of profit . The most admirable quality in the social role of the designer is honesty . You should not sell your soul for fame or profit .
– Responsibility to pass on cultural heritage (the responsibility to the past) . We are living in a world of the abundant wisdom of generations past, which we should protect and pass on to future generations, instead of cutting off the tradition in our own time . Our cultural inheritance is not to be put in museums, but to interpenetrate our daily lives, to revitalize old traditions through living creativity .
tradicija sa juga kine koja je uticala na ma ke:
2007. nagrađivani kineski reditelj jia zhangke snimio je film o njoj “useless“.( zhangke je dobitnik zlatnog lava u veneciji, zlatne palme u kanu, ove godine je bio član kanskog žirija…)
a ovde je i ceo film:
a ovo je intrevju koji je ma ke dala za portal ecofashionworld.com:
Eco Fashion World: Where are you now? Can you describe the environment that surrounds you as you’re answering these questions?
Ma Ke: Right now, I am in my design workshop, located in Zhuihai, a beautiful and peaceful city in Southern China. The workshop is embraced by shades of greenery and trees with hundreds of years of history. In the summer afternoon, you can hear the cicada singing and feel the gentle breeze coming through from the widow.
EFW: How did you get started doing eco fashion?
Ma Ke: Maybe I was born an ecologist. Since I was a child, I’ve loved being in nature, surrounded by animals. My first professional idol was the British female zoologist Jane Goodall when I was seven or eight years old. After reading the story of her orangutan studies in the African jungle, I was eager to become a zoologist like her. I’ve had many animal companions since I was a child, and now I am living with seven grown dogs and three new-born puppies in my workshop. Living with animals brings me a profound understanding of how close and interdependent human beings are with nature. It is very important for establishing my view of creation.
EFW: What are your design and artistic inspirations?
Ma Ke: Nature gives me endless inspiration. You should fill you heart with beauty in the first place, thus you will have a strong desire to share with others.
EFW: How do you operate your eco fashion business?
Ma Ke: I don’t think about ecology when I am doing my works. It’s already integrated into my blood; I follow my heart. I also never think about business, as life is more than business. There are fewer necessities in our life than we think.
EFW: Has the international recognition that you’ve received in the past years changed something for you?
Ma Ke: The change in me derives from my growth and exceeding my own limits, it comes from my ongoing thinking, practice and exploration. It has nothing to do with outside recognition.
EFW: What do you think about the production of fashion in China today? Will other designers be inspired to get into sustainable production in the short term, or do you think China has to go through the same cycle as western countries have in the 20th century?
Ma Ke: The fashion industry’s history in China is much shorter than that in the West, it’s only 30 years old. However, China has a rich costume and cloth culture. Our traditional wisdom should lead Chinese people towards a different development from the Western industrial pattern. We have seen the disadvantages that have been brought about in the industrial society; China doesn’t have to follow the same old way.
EFW: How would you describe the difference between your two collections, Exception and Wuyong?
Ma Ke: EXCEPTION provides everyday clothing, practical but not conventional, it’s like the fresh air. WUYONG is a way of sharing my thinking and understanding of the world, it’s soul-refinement.
EFW: Who would you like to see wearing your clothes? Do you have any style icons?
Ma Ke: Anyone who shares my values and who loves these cloths. I don’t have any style icons.
EFW: How do you see your collection evolving in the future?
Ma Ke: Let it be. I don’t make plans or figures. The value of WUYONG does not show on its own, but its benefit to society is my biggest satisfaction. There should always be some people who enjoy doing what is not profit driven.
EFW: Would you share any of your favorite sustainable tips?
Ma Ke: I admire vegetarians who practice earnestly for their self-cognition instead of some “concept”. They are sincere to themselves and others.
EFW: Is there anything else that you would like to share with us?
Ma Ke: If you agree with me, please join in and make a difference. Words are meaningless in front of our actions.