Monthly Archives: Kolovoz 2015

Shanghai mood

wong kar-wai je rođen u šangaju… možda i ja. možda imam kose oči i crnu, crnu kosu. i znam to onda kada sam leptir koji sanja da je čovek.

in the mood for love“, wong kar-wai (花樣年華)

kada slušam ovu muziku koju je komponovao shigeru umebayashi čovek sam koji sanja da je leptir. . . i osećam bol za nečim što bih mogla da budem. što sam u snu tek. sa oba kažiprsta prislonjenim uz slepoočnice izdužujem uglove očiju.  i evo: kosooka sam!

dreaming of dreamy skies…

Amy Wang, Shanghai society girl and fashion designer (late 1930s)

ovo je amy wang, modna dizajnerka iz šangaja. vreme: krajem tridesetih godina 20. veka. haljina (ili je bluza?) ima mnoge elemente tradicionalnog, a frizura i cigareta u ruci govore o vesternizaciji kine… sinoć smo u nekom društvu pokušavali da se prisetimo da li su kinezi išli u neke velike osvajačke poduhvate van svoje zemlje. rekoh: velike. znam za neke manje, po komšiluku. evo i sada, stvaraju svet kod svoje velike kuće. odlaze u beli svet, čak i do nas jadnih, pa se vraćaju u svoje gnezdo… ili grešim. nisam nikakav istoričar. na jednog govornika engleskog danas dolazi tri govornika kineskog? (pročitah u odličnoj jezičkoj istoriji sveta nikolasa ostlera”carstvo reči”.) i pitanje sa tim u vezi: živi li latinski negde još osim u starim knjigama i, na obično nečitkim, lekarskim receptima?

LIU WEN |A-Z of Beauty ✖

liu wen, a-z beauty by daniel sannwald

a ovo je blog o mestima gde se moda i umetnost dodiruju. i da, volim istočnjačku modu. ima ukus dobro čuvane tajne. volim kako šušti svila. a put svile očaravajući.  gledala sam na filmu i u knjigama hiljadugodišnju, bogatu tradiciju mode u kini… nije mao vladao celom njihovom istorijom i nisu nosili samo one bezlične stvari… kada je u januaru ove godine posetila kinu ona koja vedri i oblači modnim nebom, ona koja je odlučila da se i starleta poznata samo po tome što je poznata nađe na koricama modnog carstva “vogue”, anna wintour,  hladno i fiskalno je konstatovalaa: “honestly, i see a lot of pretty things in china, but nothing i could call ‘modern chinese style’ has emerged yet”… a da li je kineskoj modnoj industriji zapadno tržište uopšte i potrebno? ili je obrnuto? kakogod, ja kada bih mogla, kada bih živela u nekoj zemlji u kojoj od svog rada može pošteno da se živi,  kupila bih rado modele nekih kineskih modnih dizajnera…

već sam na ovom blogu pisala o vezi šangaja i mode. evo ovde.

iz šangaja dolazi i kreatorka judy hua.

http://www.judyhua.com

a ako vas put nanese u šangaj evo i adrese: judy hua showroom 
1f, building 7, 50 moganshan lu, putuo district, shanghai

judy najviše poštuje kreatore kao što su: yohji yamamoto, rei kawakubo, issey miyake… meni je već i to dovoljno da mi se dopadne.

 

Judy Hua

judy hua

iz šangaja dolazi i rachelle jim, inače po obrazovanju arhitekta.

ovo je njen site:

http://www.rachellejim.com

ja volim ove njene modele:

Construction of this series is influenced by Shanghai tailoring of the 1930’s, with earthen palette inspired by art deco architecture of the foreign concessions. The signature silhouette is characterized by a pair of padded hips with a strange sense of allure and beauty. The gentle protrusions accentuate a svelte waistline, creating an illusion of desirable feminine proportions.

Construction of this series is influenced by Shanghai tailoring of the 1930’s, with earthen palette inspired by art deco architecture of the foreign concessions. The signature silhouette is characterized by a pair of padded hips with a strange sense of allure and beauty. The gentle protrusions accentuate a svelte waistline, creating an illusion of desirable feminine proportions.

Rachelle Jim F/W 2012 in Numéro China #23 November 2012 by John-Paul Pietrus

jedanput ide stari amidža

ko neki sedi mandarin…

(đura jakšić, otac i sin)

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hat maker, mad hatter, nick fouquet

photo by rodney smith

the hatter opened his eyes very wide on hearing this; but all he SAID was, `why is a raven like a writing-desk?’

`come, we shall have some fun now!’ thought alice. `i’m glad they’ve begun asking riddles.–i believe I can guess that,’ she added aloud.

`do you mean that you think you can find out the answer to it?’ said the march hare.

`exactly so,’ said alice.

`then you should say what you mean,’ the march hare went on.

`i do,’ alice hastily replied; `at least–at least i mean what i say–that’s the same thing, you know.’

`not the same thing a bit!’ said the hatter. `you might just as well say that “i see what i eat” is the same thing as “i eat what I see”!’

`you might just as well say,’ added the march hare, `that “i like what I get” is the same thing as “i get what I like”!’ 

alice in wonderland, chapter VII, a mad tea-party

photo ashley noelle

luda čajanka kod šeširdžije i zeca sa alisom, bez vremena, nije kerolova imaginacija. pogledaj video dole.

(trenutačno) mesto radnje: 853 lincoln blvd, venice, california. ludi šeširdžija ima ime: nick fouquet.

ovo je njegova adresa u sajber spejsu (in cyber space people become place?): www.nickfouquet.com

nick menja mesta u stvarnom životu. još kao veoma mlad bio je radoznao poput alise. njegov život je avantura. zavlačio se svugde. od rodnog new yorka (1983. rođen) do juga francuske , pa opet preko amerike do australije, maroka, nepala, perua, novog zelanda, brazila, ekvadora… ko zna kuda će sve još da se zaputi. pravi šešire od dabrovog krzna, od nedavno i panama šešire od palmolike biljke toquilla, kojima ne odolevaju ni tasya van ree,bob dyalan, madonna, diane keaton, bono vox,  pharrell williams… kaže da u izradi svojih šešira ne mari za pravila, izmislio je svoja. kao jedan drugi zec, radovićev plavi, i francuski razgovara. i surfuje. pravi keramiku, razume se poprilično u održivi razvoj, model je…

photo michael dubler

photo by ashley noell

IMG_9819-Edit

nick fouquet za the baxter blog

a ovako je nick fouquet sam sebe predstavio na svom rođenom sajtu:

-Who is NICK FOUQUET? 

 Nick Fouquet is part human part animal. French with a Huck Finn spirit. Part Native American and part psychedlic adventurer.

And I will always be a gentleman. 

 –What is the NICK FOUQUET Brand? 

 The Nick Fouquet Brand is an extention of my souls and my creativity. It’s an unconscious free streaming flow of my designs that come from travel, art, love, family and self. It’s a psycedelic bourgeoisie bohemian experience. 

 –How did you start making hats? 

 I honeslty did not know hat making was my thing. I didn’t know what my thing was. It found me. I graduated with a BA in Environmental Science and Sustainable Development. My future was looking more like forestry or a recluse in the high mountains of Colorado as a field worker. I had always identified with colors, design and natural aesthetics, which I derived from my travels and working for other designers and ultimatley implemented into my work. 

-What materials do you use for your hats? 

 I use 100% Beaver fur felt which is sustainably harvested few hat makers use it. 

 –Who or what is your biggest inspiration? 

 Travel, gutter punks, Tom Sawyer, Keith Richards, The Sappeurs in the Congo, my Dad’s Style and love. 

 –What kind of hat would you make your inspiration? 

 I would make my inspiration a distressed western style hat with leather binding, a boro hat band, and would sprinkle it with turquoise and silver trimmings and have a bullet hole in the side of the crown. His name is Ralph Lauren. 

 –What makes you happy? 

 When I realize I’m in the moment of something…

 –What is the sexiest way to wear a hat?

 with confidence.

HWTF_nickfouquet28

HWTF_nickfouquet18

photos jessie webster

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yiqing yin. a medusa of modern times…

“to me fashion is not only about a garment but also striving to create an emotion, to tell a story and to relate to others.” (yiqing yin)

yiqing yin, photo by  laurence laborie

 www.yiqingyin.com

još jednom zdravo istoku. pozdrav suncu! yiqing yin je rođena u pekingu, ali od svoje 4. godine živi u sidneju, njena porodica je pobegla iz kine jer je njen otac podržao studente na tjenamenu. posle su prešli u pariz koji yiqing yin polako osvaja. 2010. je dobila nagradu za dizajn grada pariza, a kolekcija za koju je nagrađena zvala se “egzil”… njeno ime ne znači tek tako: “posle oluje dolazi sunce”… školovala se u parizu na école  nationale supérieure des arts décoratifs.

jedna njena kolekcija zove the dreamer… volim takve nazive. poetične. one koji kazuju da tu ima nešto više od pohoda na tržište i trendove. yiqing yin je prvo nastupila kao individualac. za sebe. i za sve srećnice koji mogu da priušte sebi njene senzualne modele načinjene od najluksuznijih materijala, ali i od obične medicinske gaze… i njenih snova. sada je kreativni direktor francuskog branda léonard.

yiqing yin ima zanimljivu putanju po kojoj hoda u svetu mode i zaista joj je mesto na blogu (ili bilo gde gde se to čini) koji slavi susret umetnosti i mode. pogledaj samo fotografiju iznad. možeš li svesti to samo na odevni predmet? zvanična potvrda toga da je u ovom kreatoru stanar i artista je i njeno učešće 2013. na venecijanskom bijenalu. la biennale di venezia je te godine odala počast putu svile. šest umetnika iz italije i sa istoka su učestvovali na izložbi “silk map“.

njena instalacija “in-between” počiva na njenoj dirljivoj rečenici: “when a million silk threads come together as blood...”

jiqing yin ključne reči:

drapiranje, drapiranje, drapiranje

romantika i senzualnost

zen

skulpturnost

soft armour

tradicija i avangarda

dekonstrukcija

fascinacija podvodnim svetom i  uopšte prirodom

 

“the creative power of nature fascinates me,it is fragility, it is organic forms, the impact of light and its mineral surfaces … i try to bring all these elements together in my collections by playing with the aesthetics of movement and draping, creating nature-inspired forms that transform the garment itself.” (yiqing yin)

“when i work on a silhouette, i build it according to the body shape, like an armour or fluid shell,” she says, adding that the woman who wears her clothes is nonchalant, “aflâneuse; a medusa of modern times with a casual state of mind who feels at great ease with her self.” (yiqing yin)

“when i drape a garment, i don’t know where it’s going to end up.” (yiqing yin)

 

odavde

my clothes are for someone who wants to affirm her identity, who is not afraid of being individual and who likes to play with her appearances. she wants to communicate something special. she is feminine but also very strong… (yiqing yin)  “she has her head in the clouds but her feet on the ground – she’s a free wanderer. she’s a goddess who walks in the real world with a distance from everybody else. she’s extremely sensual – but with a wild side. my designs provide a soft armor for her…” (yiqing yin)

audrey tautou, cannes festival 2013, photo reuters

silk map,  venezia 2013. yiqing yin

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emma, light, wabi sabi…

“defining wabi sabi in physical terms is like explaining the taste of a piece of chocolate by its shape and color.” – wong & hirano

emma bradstreet, photographer – yuvali theis

 

emma bradstreet dolazi iz londona, a diplomirala je 2014. modni dizajn na kingston univerzitetu. njen dreamspace, njen stil je minimalistički i zasnovan na japanskoj estetici.  kolekcija sa kojom je diplomirala zove se: “wabi-sabi“… osvojile su me na prvi pogled fotografije njenih modela prepune nežne svetlosti koju je znalački zabeležilo senzibilno fotografsko oko koje ima yivali theis. srećan joj ulazak u svet modnih kreatora. njeni počeci obećavaju.

ring the bells that still can ring.

forget your perfect offering.

there is a crack, a crack in everything.

that’s how the light gets in.

—leonard cohen

emma.lookbook_15.JPG

 

sa njenog sajta #

“inspired by the japanese aestheticwabi sabi’, emma bradstreet’s graduate collection celebrates the beauty of things imperfect, impermanent and incomplete.

the word ‘wabi’ connotes rustic simplicity, freshness, quietness and an understated elegance. it can refer to quirks and uniqueness arising from the construction process. the word ‘sabi’ by contrast relates to beauty or serenity that comes with age, when an object’s wear and tear is evidenced and its impermanence exposed.

inspired by cracks, crevices and all other marks that time and weather leave behind,
‘imperfect, impermanent, incomplete’ is embodied by asymmetric shapes, rough textures, subtle hues and natural materials.

strongly influenced by menswear, the collection features a range of timeless and classic silhouettes, focusing on the reinvention of traditional pieces through unconventional fabric choices and a tendency to flaunt the unwritten rules of tailoring. an asymmetric lapel or an angled shirt placket, each working detail leads to a new interpretation of a classic tailored garment.

using a combination of clever cutting, contemporary fabrication and minimalist design, this collection incorporates british tradition, skill and quality where good design is about enduring quality and understated detail.”

emma.lookbook_8.JPG

Emma Bradstreet x Yuvali Theis www.yuvalitheis.com

 

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