Monthly Archives: Listopad 2015

haider ackermann – you live your life as if it’s real

https://i1.wp.com/www.interviewmagazine.com/files/2010/12/29/img-haider-ackermann-1_112155637108.jpg

photo: haider ackermann in new york, november 2010

http://haiderackermann.be

po meni, haider ackermann je dizajner koji je sebe najbolje stilizovao. romantičarski, avangardno, stylish, nonšalantno, perfekcionistički, nomadski, mistično, poetski, divlje, smireno, dekadentno,dečački, muževno, aristokratski i klošarski… da sam muškarac volela bih tako da izgledam. zapravo i ja kao žena volela bih da nosim stvari koje on lično nosi. udobno, nabrano, sofisticirano, nemarno… sa utiskom spremnosti i za gradsku vrevu i za oluju u pustinji. za ostanak i za beg. sa osećajem slobode… razigrano…

i wanted to give women the luxury of just letting things go, of just being free.” (haider)

rođen je 1971. u kolumbiji i već kao devetomesečna beba usvojen je od strane francuske porodice kartografa i humanitaraca koji su pre njega već usvojili jednu devojčicu iz vijetnama i dečaka iz koreje. živeli su na raznim mestima, u etiopiji, čadu, alžiru, francuskoj, holandiji… zamišljam koliko to mora da je bio šaren i uzbudljiv život… nije ni čudo što je takav kakav je… nadasve egzotičan!  svoj!

u antverpenu je upisao modni dizajn na prestižnoj kraljevskoj akademiji lepih umetnosti… nije završio studije, ali se 2001. uspešno predstavio na pfw.

“my private life is not that interesting. i just want to communicate with my défilé. i like reading though i barely have time for it. let me have a cosy dinner with my friends, leave me alone. let me dream. the day when i can’t dream anymore, that’ll be the day when everything falls apart.”(haider za joyce.com)

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i spent my childhood in africa and i didn’t know that you could make a living out of fashion until i was about 12. in algeria where i lived the islamic women wear a black shawl called a chador which was very mysterious to me and ultimately gave me inspiration. i would watch the women go by trying to imagine what they looked like beneath the shawl. the desire to understand what is beneath the clothing is the origin for my fashions and the reason why i became part of this world. unfortunately, no matter how much time goes by i still don’t come closer to understanding. (laugh). (haider ackermann)

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haider ackermann photo mauro gonzalez

you can only design what you know.” (haider)

i’m looking for a luxury that’s a bit négligé, that can be rich but doesn’t look rich. i would love for my clothes to be timeless, for people to build a sense of intimacy with them over time. i’ve tried over the years to tell a story, with each collection a different chapter. and you hope the reader will follow you and see where the novel’s going.(4 w magazine)

for me at the moment, a woman’s manly side is what’s sexy. and i’m not talking about androgyny. i think that a woman standing strongly, fighting to be desired, is very sexual.(w magazine)

Haider Ackermann en 2003

photo giovanni giannoni

when men are being admired, when all those men are immaculate and perfectly dressed, it makes me want to be one of them. i would like to be proper dressed and i would like to be exact and sharp in my appearance. but i am not one of those men. when i dress, i want to put the garment on and everything is here with me. it’s basically a part of who i am. i’m not an anxious person. i have to feel at ease to feel comfortable. (—)  when you see the violence that is going on in the world, especially nowadays when you see what is happening in tunisia and elsewhere, i think there is also a big urge for certain beauty. it puts our lives in balance. because otherwise, where would we be? it’s a gift nowadays, to escape with beauty.(haider, interview with eugene rabkin, style zeitgeist)

photo by roberto frankenberg

 what’s had the greatest influence on your career?
h.a. the erect posture of an ethiopian woman whose legs were so long she reached the sun. (no rules)

photo by jerome bonnet

obrati pažnju i na soundtrack!

and sometimes when the night is slow,
the wretched and the meek,
we gather up our hearts and go,
 a thousand kisses deep.

(leonard cohen)

Isssue Haider Ackermann - Cover

naslovna časopisa a magazin koji je haider ackermann uredio, koji je otkrio njegovu melanholičnu stranu

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thuy

pita me drugarica zašto toliko volim daleki istok… ni sebi nisam pokušala to da objasnim. u mom pačvork sistemu vrednosti ljubav baš i nije objašnjiva kategorija. osećam to što ljubim, ne ulazeću na teren znanja. iskreno, mislim da znanje nije ni namenjeno mi. nam. komegod… ali, hajde da pokušam da objasnim. njoj. mojoj drugarici. volim svet istoka jer mi je odavde, iz mene, iz mog posmatračkog ugla to svet bliži skladu nego naš zapadnjački. bliži prihvatanju života, postojanja takvog kakvo postojanje jeste. sa manje pritisaka, buke, neprihvatanja…  i više blagosti i smirenosti. manje reči i više osmeha. možda je sve to samo moja iluzija, ali meni tako izgleda. sa sazrevanjem postajem veći poštavalac lepote nesavršenosti, tišine, vertikalne zrake sunca, zelenog, jutra, asimetrije, minimalizma, bistre vode… postojanja samog po sebi. sve manje me zanima i gde sam bila i kuda idem. prepuštam se. sadašnjem. i volim detinju zaigranost i začuđenost istočnjaka. više nego pretencioznu ozbiljnost i zabrinutost sa predumišljajem zapadnjaka. osim ako zapadnjaci nisu italijani… ili španci. sa siestama i fiestama.

u nizu nedelja mode širom planete bila je i nedelja mode u vijetnamu… i čistoća, bistrina, razigranost su me (o5) očarali. mene koja baš nisam zaluđena za kolorit. ali, ovo veselo, estetizovano. sveže. starinsko i novo. čedno, a lascivno šareno. i skroz sofisticirano.

vidi samo ovo: thuy design house – ” lung lieng ” collection:

thuydesignhouse.com

 

 

a ovo dole je thuy guyen – osnivač i kreativni direktor thuy design house… ona je po osnovnoj vokaciji slikarka (rođena u hanoju) koja se obrazovala u ukrajini. rođena je 1981. i ima četvoro dece. najviše voli svilu i brokat. a gore je čudesni vijetnamski brokat… kako to da ne poželim uz svoju kožu?

ellevn-decor-homes-thuynguyen-2

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for fashion lovers, not for followers

kada se zovete leaf greener već skrećete pažnju na sebe (pravo ime ye zi). ona zna svašta nešto o modi, jer ima ohoho iskustva u tom svetu i igra se u njemu samouvereno i kao devojčica. leaf greener je rođena u beijingu, živi u šangaju i ostatku sveta. unuka je nekadasnjeg ambasadora kine u londonu. ova digital fashion kraljica vrhunski je stilista i kreativni konsultant. studirala je istoriju umetnosti i modni dizajn. godinama je radila u kineskim izdanjima vodećih modnih magazina, a sada je nezavisna, osnovala je svoj mobile magazina leaf (na u kini veopma popularnoj weChat app). promoviše i pruža podršku talentovanim mladim kineskim dizajnerima. svoj sopstveni stil opisuje kao: twisted chic, playful-meets-old-fashioned.

a ovo je njen šangaj:

ovako ju je video adam katz sinding

I feel like I'm a rule-breaker. Chinese people hate it when you wear high heels and socks, but I love it.

na svom youtube kanalu farfetch u serijalu “the unfollowers” slavi individualce u svetu mode. naslov ovog posta je njihov moto. leaf greener se zasluženo našla tu.

njen moto je: live simple, dress cool.

Leaf Greener.

jpmv

‘i don’t really feel like i’m involved with trends, i just wear something for myself. i just like this stuff, i will wear it, that’s it. i don’t like being “trendy trendy”. if i could choose one item of clothing to wear for ever and ever and ever it would be pyjamas. i want to live in morocco in pyjamas.” (leaf)

Leaf Greener, All Over Press.

all over press

recommend us a book that changed your life? fight club by chuck palahniuk. i love the writing: “we’re the middle children of history, man. no purpose or place. we have no great war. no great depression. our great war is a spiritual war. our great depression is our lives. we’ve all been raised on television to believe that one day we’d all be millionaires, and movie gods, and rock stars, but we won’t. you are not your job. you’re not how much money you have in the bank. you’re not the car you drive. you’re not the contents of your wallet. you’re not your fucking khakis. you’re the all-singing, all-dancing crap of the world. (leaf greener)

adam katz sinding

leaf greener

fashion encourages creativity. i enjoy the optimism and fantasy that comes with it. the pure energy drives us to live and create things beyond what we imagine we could.

but at the end of the day, its all material goods. i don’t have anything in my wardrobe that I can’t live without because you only really need your soul.

(leaf greener)

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Filed under Adam Katz Sinding, farfetch, leaf, leaf greener, shanghai, the unfollowers

dramatic and poetic hats

umislila sam da nemam odgovarajuči oblik glave za šešire,a umisliti ovako nešto nije baš dobra rekreacija. o, da, volela bih da ih nosim. treba se samo usuditi. i nositi ono što želiš i kako želiš, sa stavom i ubeđenjem da je to dobro. najbolje. makar ispao mad hatter…  samopozdano i stylish kao tasya van ree što ih nosi… kakogod, ja volim ideju šešira na glavama. muškim i ženskim. šešire klasične i šešire ekscentrične. danas su tema ovi potonji – eksentrični. kao što giles deacon reče; dramatični i romantični.i poetični, dodajem! u “alisi” ludi šeširdžija kaže ovo:

giles deacon o stephenu jonesu, 2009, izložba: hats: an anthology by stephen jonesvictoria and albert museum

elem, o stephenu jonesu (1957) bih koju reč da kažem. on je eksentrični & avangardni kreator onoga što ukrašava glavu. od kako je elsa schipaparelli 1937. u saradnji sa salvadorom dalijem kreirala cipelu-šešir stephen jones je jedan od najboljih njenih sledbenika. osim za revije deacona stvarao je šešire za gaultiera, vivienne westwood,diora, galliana, rei kawakubo, marc jacobsa… mnoge, mnoge poznate ličnosti, muzičari, glumci… nosile su i nose njegove ludo dobre i nezaboravne kreacije.

helena bonham carter nosi jonesov labud-šešir

stephen jones (o5) za gilesa deacona

stephen jones milliners | Stephen Jones:

comme [des garçons] is fantastic and i love rei. she is someone that everyone simply looks towards. her and Vivienne are incredible because they’ve somehow done their own thing and carried on doing it, producing the most extraordinary things that make us dream. i believe that’s the purpose of fashion – if not we should all run around wearing gap t-shirts, which are fine, but, you know… i need my visual input to be a bit stronger than that. (stephen jones for dazed)

Comme des Garçons Homme Plus - Autumn/Winter 2007-2008  (c) POPEYE August, 2007.  Photography: Rrosemary  Styling: Keisube Baba Hair & Make-up: To

comme des garçons, aw2008 , photography: rrosemary

wash and go by stephen jones

motwary: in your opinion, what makes a great hat?

jones: god knows! for me, I think it has to have an element of fantasy to it, or the person who wears it must feel some kind of fantasy. it doesn’t matter whether it is a big thing you do for a fashion show or whether it’s a baseball cap. it has to turn you into somebody. it applies whether you are young or old, a man or a woman—it’s got to have some magic to it.

motwary: is there is a methodology or philosophical frame- work within which you work?

jones: yeah—what’s a good hat? my philosophy is that whatever i do is about trying to make fantasy come true.

(stephen jones for the kinsky)

Stephen Jones Millinery for Christian Dior fall 2009 haute couture in Paris:

za diora 2009

http://www.stephenjonesmillinery.com

hat or fascinator?

hat, definitely today. i think it’s the fashion for a bigger hat, something more substantial. a fascinator is fine for a dress, maybe for the evening, and now is almost like a head decoration but i think what I’ve seen around is everyone wearing hats. (stephen jones za vogue)

stephen jones i naša đurđa stojiljković za galliana

stephen jones:hats are totally about escapism. of course, they can keep you warm, or keep you dry, or keep the sun off your face, but they’re predominantly about escaping, about being somebody else.”

John Galliano - Autumn/Winter 2004-2005  (c) Photography: Etienne Tordoir/ Catwalkpictures.com

galliano, a/w 2005, photography: etienne tordoir

knjiga o njemu, fotografija na omotu nick knight

stephen-jones-hats

za vivienne westwood

stephen jones for a. f. vandervorst a/w 2015

thom browne and stephen jones, ss 2016

Breathtaking: 'It was supposed to be romantic but also dramatic,' Deacon said after the show

giles deacon and stephen jones ss 2013

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red hair and october

3. oktobra 1943. rođen je on, a 11. oktobra 1942. ona. mesto rođenja tokyo. on je yohji yamamoto, a ona je rei kawakubo. nekada su stvarali zajedno… zajedno ostavili pariz bez daha. kao i ovog (njihovog) oktobra… slučajnost je da su oboje kose svojih modela zamislili crveno. i ispričali, svako na svoj način, sasvim odvojeno, priču lišenu svake banalnosti. o istoku i zapadu, o ženama i moći, o vešticama. o nerazumevanju i koliko razumevanje drugih nije ni važno… o magiji i pticama… budi se istok i zapad. oktobar je crven i ovog puta. revolucije najčešće iznevere, rei i yohji nikada. be sure.

2th october 2015, 20:30h, hotel de ville, paris

yohji yamamoto S/S 2016 backstage, photographs by elise toide, hair styling by eugene souleiman

yohji yamamoto S/S 2016 backstage, photographs by elise toide, hair styling by eugene souleiman

yohji yamamoto ss 2016, vogue 

red isn’t a colour, it’s a light. (yohji yamamoto)

october 3, 2015, 5:00 pm, paris, le centorial

he is very inspiring and we decided that we were twin brothers. and the fact that he was born in japan and me in germany, doesn’t interfere with much. we made a film together twenty years ago. and during that year we saw each other nearly all the time and it’s from there that our friendship dates back from. he is serious, a real worker and he works in the narrative. he’s a psychologist, he’s someone who knows art history, who knows lots of photography and painting…and with all of this knowledge, he fabricates something in his clothes which makes us feel good inside! he taught me that dressing up, becomes part of our identity, and that it helps us, and comforts us and sometimes it drives us a little. It’s always a peak into the future and i find it really interesting to see clothes that you might see out on the street in a year’s time.  (wim wenders o svom prijatelju yamamotu)

julien8

courtesy of julien d’Ys / hair stayling

#SuzyPFW: Comme des Garçons - Witch Hunt

#SuzyPFW: Comme des Garçons - Witch Hunt

_CDG0517 (1)

Comme Des Garçons SS16

photography virginie khateeb

blue witches, comme des garçons

witches. these are strong women that are often misunderstood by the world.” (adrian joffe / dazed )

“i was thinking about witches. witches in the original sense of the word, in the sense of a woman having power. the original witches were benevolent but because people didn’t understand them they bullied them. we’re left with a bad image of them.”   (rei kawakubo, dazed)

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