u danima kada mi tako snažno nedostaje poezija, koja kao da je proterana sa ovih prostora, na blagoslovenom i prokletom prostoru interneta otkrih rad ovog fenomenalnog čoveka. deyan sudjic mu je ime. i stid me je što ga tek sada otkrih. kada živim na kraju svih svetova…
deyan sudjic je, po korenima, naše gore list. arhitekta po obrazovanju i uticajni teoretičar po zvanju. osnivač čuvenog magazina blueprint, direktor venecijanskog bijenala arhitekture 2002, dugogodišnji kritičar the observera, autor mnogih značajnih knjiga o arhitekturi i ne samo o arhitekturi, (na žalost, nisu prevedene na srpski, koliko ja znam… naša čuvena ignorancija i kaskanje…) direktor je muzeja dizajna u londonu… i ono što je u granicama ovog bloga koji se, pre svega, bavi modom: dakle, deyan sudjic se bavi i promišljanjem mode. autor je čuvene knjige o rei kawakubo i comme des garçons , koju je rizzoli objavio 1990. i o paulu smithu 2013: hello, my name is paul smith: fashion and other stories.
among the huge amount of printed matter, is an edifying monograph of comme des garçons by deyan sudjic. sudjic provides what has been described as “the most comprehensive review of the fashion house to date”, through decoding kawakubo’s design principals in an honest and straight-forward way, while attempting to illustrate her ability to bridge fine art, fashion and commerce. (husk magazine)
limited edition, rizzoli, 1990
fashion has been of interest to you, too. you were recently involved in the rizzoli book hello, my name is paul smith, and in 1990 you published rei kawakubo and comme des garçons.
yes, actually, in my extreme youth, paul smith called up one day and said, “you must come see tokyo.” we got on a plane and went. he took me around the city and showed me the shrines and shops. then one evening we had dinner with rei kawakubo. paul managed to ambush her with a rubber chicken. she actually laughed. i spent six months following her around as she made a collection. we went to gifu, where they make textiles. i later ended up with her at one of her paris collection shows, where she had john malkovich and julian sands among the models. it was quite an impressive evening.
rei, photography by deyan sudjic
ovo je svijet koji konzumira svoj izlaz iz depresije, a luksuz, moda i umjetnost highlighti su modernog dizajna, dok je moda najrazvijenija forma manipulacije u kojoj su njezini konzumenti voljni platiti za nepostojanost, kaže sudjic ujedno i autor monografije o najvećoj umjetnici u modi rei kawakubo, osnivačici comme des garcones: – arhitekti možda ne misle da je moda bitna, no to je jedna od najvećih industrija i jako je važna. nisam prvi kritičar kojeg zanima moda. i velikog adolfa loosa je zanimala. pronašao sam i njegov tekst o tome zašto nijemci nose prebijele hlače. (deyan sudjic u intervjuu za jutarnji list)
“by the time she graduated,” writes deyan sudjic in his 1990 monograph on comme des garçons, “the country had decisively emerged from the ranks of the developing world. the ferment of those years provided unique opportunities for the members of a generation that was ready to make the most of them. they enjoyed the fruits of an economic success story which enabled japan to look at the outside world in more objective terms, to make its own creative contribution and, in the process, to assert its own identity as a mature, modern state.” (dazed digital)
“the initial absence of colour in kawakubo’s clothes helped to trigger a new bout of the preoccupation with black that has been a recurrent theme at the margins of fashion from the 1940s and earlier,” writes deyan sudjic in his 1990 monograph, rei kawakubo and comme des garcons. “though black has enjoyed a continuing vogue since its adoption by the grandees of the spanish royal court in the late 16th century, in modern times, and for women in particular, it has been a sign of a bohemian rejection of more traditional ideas about fashion.” (independent)
rizzoli, 2013, www.paulsmith.co.uk
“what we try and show is both the creativity of fashion and also how it’s done. i think paul smith is an unusual fashion designer in that he’s not afraid to show what’s under the magic.” (deyan sudjic)
deyan sudjic & paul smith, photo by thim whitby