Спаси и сохрани and Armour of Peace

«спаси и сохрани» piše na majicama intrigantnog ruskog  dizajnera i umetnika koji se zove гоша рубчинский. njegovi modeli sa ćiriličnim natpisima prikazani su pre neki dan na paris fashion weeku. moram da priznam da do prošle sedmice nisam ni znala da on postoji. prvi put sam videla njegovo ime na instagram profilu sjajnog čoveka kome već duže vremena nameravam da posvetim barem jedan post i imam veliku tremu od toga. adrian joffe je taj čovek. imam čast da i on prati moj instagram profil. ali, da se vratim na priču o goši. adrian mu je posvetio čak tri fotografije. kada sam otišla na gošin instagram u prvom mahu bila sam u čudu. pitala sam se kakve veze joffe ima sa time?! na brzinu sam konsultovala google, bila sam u nekoj vremenskoj stisci… i dalje mi ništa nije bilo jasno. tako odevenih mladića bilo je u srbiji devedesetih ohoho: upasane majice u trenerke, pantalone, prevelike jakne… kada su se adrian joffe i njegova životna i poslovna partnerka rei kawakubo pojavili na gošinoj reviji znala sam da moram pronaći vremena za mladog rusa. rei i adrian ne poklanjaju svoju pažnju i poverenje tek tako. komentari na gošinom instagramu (za sada tamo stoje tek dve fotografije, a broj radoznalaca poput mene se povećava iz sata u sat) sve brojniji takođe. ljude najviše zanima šta znači: «спаси и сохрани». odgovaraju im: “save and survive”. omg, goša, baš si izazvao pometnju, mi ćirilični i pravoslavni smo nekakva teška egzotika i nepoznanica u ovom ludom svetu. da, pomoć gospoda nam treba svima. luđe je nego devedesetih. tada smo barem imali nadu. a šta sada imamo?

na jednom drugom mestu danas sam napisala da nam treba pank, a onda posle panka zen. jedan posto ljudi kontroliše nas preostalih 99%. religiozan čovek uzda se u boga i spasenje. a ko nije religiozan u šta da se uzda? ja sam uvek verovala u ono što je jedan drugi rus rekao, da će lepota spasiti ovaj svet. počinjem da sumnjam da lepota neće biti dovoljna. da će trebati malo i našeg besa. i revolta. i ulice. i ponovnog čitanja majakovskog. i gledanja rodčenkovih radova. mogli biste do 28. februara još stići u beograd na izložbu “ruske avangarde”. i podsećanje na svaku drugu avangardu. ona, kao ni proleteri (što marx reče) nema domovinu. ovo je sukob nas 99% protiv onog jednog procenta. i ta borba biće teža nego svaka prethodna, jer je taj 1% snažan dinosaurus, a mi smo mravi. no, možda neki meteor prođe opet…

ovo je goša, kažu prijatelj svih moskovskih skejtera, rođen je 1984, ne ide za trendovima, svoj je. btw on nije u potpunosti novo ime na modnoj sceni, već duže vremena njegovi modeli imaju svoje zapaženo mesto u dover street marketima. zanima me šta sledi nakon ove njegove priče o devedesetima, o godinama kada je odrastao i nesumnjivo ih je i romantizovao. obično romantizujemo svoje odrastanje…

«спаси и сохрани» is written on shirts of an intriguing russian designer and artist called гоша рубчинский. his models with cyrillic inscriptions were shown a few days ago at the paris fashion week. i have to admit that until the last week i wasn’t aware of him. i saw his name for the first time on an instagram profile of a great guy i have been intending to devote at least one post to, and i’m quite jittery about doing that. that man is adrian joffe.  he has honored me by following my instagram. but let’s go back to gosha. adrian has devoted as much as three photographs to him. when i saw gosha’s  instragram i was amazed at first. i wondered what does adrian has to do with him? i was in a rush, so i hastily consulted google… still nothing was clear to me.  there were a lot of young men in serbia in the 1990’s dressed like that: shirts tucked in track suits, trousers, oversized jackets… when adrian joffe and his life and business partner rei kawabuko appeared on gosha’s show, i knew i had to find some time for the young russian. rei and adrian don’t give their attention and trust to someone so easily. the number of comments on gosha’s instagram (there are only two photos for now, while the number of those curious like me is rising by the hour) is growing as well. people are mostly interested in what does «спаси и сохрани» mean? the answer is ‘save and survive’. omg  gosha, you have really caused a confusion, we who use cyrilic and are orthodox are a kind of exotic  and unknown in this mad world. yes, we all need lord’s help. it’s crazier than during the 1990’. at least we had hope back then. what do we have now?

i wrote elsewhere today that punk is what we need, and after punk, zen. one percent of people controls the other 99%. a religious man puts his hope in god and salvation. what should those not religious put their hope into?  i have always believed in what another russian said – that the beauty shall save this world. i’m starting to doubt beauty will be enough. some of our rage (anger) will be needed too. and revolt. and the streets. and reading mayakovsky again. and seeing works by rodchenko. you could visit ‘russian avant-garde’ exhibition in belgrade by february 28th. and to be reminded of any other avant-garde.  it, similarly as the proletariat (as marx said), doesn’t have a homeland. the us 99% versus the one percent. that struggle will be as hard as those before, because the 1% is a strong dinosaur, and we are ants. perhaps a meteor will pass by again…

this guy gosha, a friend of all moscow skaters, they say, was born in 1984, he doesn’t follow trends, he is  his own. he isn’t a new name in fashion either, his models have had a distinctive place in dover street market  for some time now. i’m interested what follows after his story about the 1990’s, the years he grew up in and has indubitably romanticized. growing up usually tends to be romanticized…  

gosha rubchinskiy

pfw aw2016, photo: yannis vlamos / indigitalimages.com

rei on gosha’s show via @lily.templeton

a rei i njena kuća comme des garçons mladići sa buketima cveća na glavama i u naručju, u vreme kada ništa nije ružičasto. ali, možda je vreme da muškarci, konačno, otkriju svoju žensku stranu ličnosti… comme des garcons = comme des filles? njihovi sakoi izgledaju kao oklopi, šareni, ali oklopi. kao vitezi nekada. ili samuraji. oklopi potrebni da se današnji čovek brani u borbi sa spoljašnjim svetom. oružje? cveće? u svakom slučaju, to nije bitka sa vetrenjačama… neprijatelj je stvaran. ali, rei kaže da je to “armour of peace.” flower-power. lepota koja će spasiti svet. lepota koja dolazi iz prirode. ono izvan čoveka…

and rei and her fashion house comme des garcons…boys with flower bouquets on their heads and in their arms, in times when nothing is pink. but, maybe it’s time for men to finally uncover their feminine sides… comme des garcons = comme des filles? their jackets look like armors, colorful ones, but still armors. as knights used to wear. or samurai. as armors present-day people need for defense against the outer world. weapons? flowers? anyhow, that fight is not lead against the windmills… the enemy is real. but rei sais it’s an ‘armor of peace’. flower-power. beauty shall save the world. beauty that comes from the nature. the one that comes from beyond the humans…

photo by mitchell sams

Comme des Garçons Homme Plus AW16

photo by virginie khateeb

i konačno on: yohji yamamoto!!! opet mlađi od svih. i opet dosta dodirnih tačaka sa onom koja mu je nekada bila i poslovni i životni drug. sa onom koja je ostala mlada (duhom, samo se to i računa)  kao i on. čak je na jednom modelu izvezen lik koji podseća na nju. on garderobu oduvek doživljava kao štit od spoljnog sveta. i svoj duh. i ne mogu tu ništa ni gladne korporacije.

a ponela bih sve iz njegove muške kolekcije!

ovo su poruke njegove kolekcije, pa čitajte:

and finally him: yohji yamamoto!!! again, younger than all the others. and again a lot of touching points  to the one who used to be his business and life partner. to the one who remained young (in spirit, that is all that counts,) as did he.  there is even a knitted figure on one of the models that resembles her. he always thinks of clothes as a shield against the outer world. and his spirit. no hungry corporation could do anything about that.

i would wear anything from his men’s collection!

these are the messages of his collection, here you go, read them:

Yohji Yamamoto AW16

photos chloé le drezen

Yohji Yamamoto AW16

da li je ovo rei?

Yohji Yamamoto AW16

Yohji Yamamoto AW16

Yohji Yamamoto AW16

a ovako je izgledala pozivnica:

Oglasi

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Filed under art, design, fashion

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