na svetu ima tako mnogo trivijalnih ljudi (čijeg se društva treba kloniti, kao što nam erich fromm reče), ali srećom postoji i ona neophodna količina posebnih, kreativnih i humanih ljudi koji čine ovaj svet lepšim! boljim! posebno kada imaju i dozu intrigantnosti. jedan od njih je zasigurno i rad hourani. rođen je 1982. godine u jordanu, od oca jordansko/kanadskog porekla i majke sirijke. (od 16. godine živi u montrealu, a sada mu je svet dom.) i već ta priča o njegovom poreklu podstiče maštu i neke lepe slike. ja prvo vidim petru, grad-misteriju. petru brižljivo sakrivenu u stenama i sve njene nijanse ružičaste.
rad hourani sve to nosi u sebi. a ko je on? fotograf, video umetnik i modni dizajner koji je sa 34 godine u samom vrhu svetske mode. mogla sam i samo ove fotografije sa njegovog sajta da postavim i one bi već toliko toga rekle o njemu.
njegove kolekcije su unisex. unisex u njegovom smislu nije tek ona prva asocijacija na androgino. “unisex” u njegovom rečniku je pre svega pitanje: ko je odredio šta bi koji pol trebalo da nosi i šta ne bi trebalo da nosi? i odsustvo granica, ne samo pola, nego i godina, rase, nacije i svih drugih. ovaj samouki mladić je neko ko ne pristaje da robuje zadatim istinama. uopšte ga ne zanimaju modni trendovi. zanima ga osvajanje i pomeranje granica slobode. bavi se i svim tim drugim kreativnim stvarima, jer kao svaki razuman čovek zna da se individualnost osobe ne može izraziti samo kroz odeću. naš stil odevanja mnogo govori o našoj individualnosti, ali tu individualnost gradimo drugim sredstvima.
“i’ve never done a mood board in my life, my inspiration is always a continuation. i evolve by staying the same in style and vision: unisex, timeless, ageless, it’s always been a very clear direction, a very clear process, and very clear timing. i never make my team finish a collection three days before a show; it’s always done in advance and it’s always a very clear point of view.” (rad hourani)
“i started creating with a sense of curiosity and innocence driven by my ‘no-background’ background. no school. no teachers. no telly. no boundaries. no formatting. i like the idea of a world that we could live and shape by ourselves, only by observing. each our own. my visuals have erupted from this world of mine. they are genderless, ageless and limitless. they come from no nation, no race, no religion, yet they could be home anywhere, anytime. they exude the essence of timeless style for anti-conformist individuals.” – rad hourani
“EVERYTHING IS AN ILLUSION” RAD HOURAN
does creating a unisex and timeless aesthetic allow for freedom or does it add an element of constraint?
it’s definitely about freedom. it’s a way of being free of any limitations. unisex does not just define the elimination of gender; it’s also age, race, religion, any boundary that can divide people. the word “unisex” is the base element i took to start my language because i had to create a canvas to fit a man and a woman’s body. i think clothes are some of the first things you express yourself with. when i say unisex, i don’t only mean that you have to be androgynous or gothic; you can be whatever you want to be in a garment that you can adapt to any style you would like to adopt. my designs are to feel ageless, timeless. my clothes have no limits. (rad hourani)
“i never begin by sketching actual clothes. i start by drawing architectural shapes, lines, and patterns. these shapes could be anything—furniture, buildings, anything. and from there, these ideas become a sleeve, a tunic, a heel. i remember as a young boy in jordan, my mother would get all her dresses designed at the atelier. she was always very direct in how she wanted a shoulder raised just slightly, or a hem lengthened just so. though my aesthetic is completely different to her way of dressing, i apply a similar attention to detail as she did in the fitting room.”
the garments, origami folds and geometric insets are, for the most part, produced in a palette of jet-black and/or white. “the two shades represent the masculine and feminine which we all carry inside of us,” explains rad. “i always go back to black. It is powerful—but there’s also the practical aspect. if you are paying several thousands of dollars for a garment, it shouldn’t look dirty in a day, which can be the case with white.”
“my garments are meant to be collector’s items,” he continues. “and i feel very free. i don’t care what anybody thinks. i don’t care about the trends and i am not influenced by the other designers. i am only influenced by myself and the ongoing culmination of my own life experiences.”
as for the silhouettes, if hourani is taking inspiration from architecture, he’s not necessarily following the school of antoní gaudí…not that hourani follows anyone, for that matter. his lines are strict and often vertical to help elongate the body. the result looks “slick”—a word hourani employs often to describe his aesthetic. precision is key and one imagines that each fold, pleat, and drape has been calculated with mathematical exactness. “i build layers like a sculpture,” he says. deconstructing and remapping, he once crafted a garment made of six fabrics and with it, created 22 new shapes. (rad hourani)