silencio, por favor: paul harnden – shoeMaker(s)

paul harnden

#thepoetryofmaterialthings #handmade

https://vimeo.com/95197238

(pogledaj obavezno ovaj video!)

može li odeća da nosi tišinu? (i obuća, of course. za nečujne korake…) odeneš se, obuješ i – tišina! u tebi. oko tebe. dobro ti je…

pretpostavljam, jedan od preduslova je da je (i)  onaj ko je stvara predan tišini.

paul harnden zasigurno jeste.

i moju reč intropia prišivam mu.

i posvećenost.  zanatstvu. on je taj – maker.

nezainteresovan za svakodnevna, svakovekovna dešavanja. za njega kao da se industrijska revolucija nije ni desila. u principu mnogo držim do duha vremena, ali je jasno zašto me ovakvi posvećeni osobenjaci fasciniraju. navući na noge cipele koje je stvorio paul harnden i obući njegovu odeću na sebe i zakoračiti u “godinu potopa” margaret atwood… u pravu rEvoluciju. ili u polje. a onda navući njegove floralne komade za proslavu. kadgod. svi su oni pravljeni da traju. ne jednu, pola sezone, dok je u trendu, dok je u modi, dok je in, dok se lajkuje i šeruje, nego za godine i decenije. i duže, sa puno pažnje, ručno stvarano… i za amiše i za urbane duše. za radnike i za umetnike. (ok, za one sa lovom, ali tako je to…)

iako mu to, sigurna sam, nije namera, p a u l   h a r n d e n je jedan od onih koji podstiču. edukuju, menjaju… jedan od onih koji nam baš trebaju.

galliano voli da nosi ono što paul stvara. meni se svidelo to što je rekao za njega da je “v e r y   g r e t a   g a r b o“…

o ovom povučenom od javnosti stvaraocu iz brajtonu (rođenom u kanadi) zna se koliko on dopušta da se zna. postoji tek jedan intervju i to samo u papirnom izdanju some/things magazina,,,( broj iz septembra 2011, razgovor vodio derek thomson). i odlomci tog razgovora po internetu.  nešto video zapisa njegovih i o njemu. i fotografije njegovih kreacija, od cipela do šešira. (toliko od toga bih volela da nosim. jer, znaš, ponekad i materijalne stvari prave poeziju... ali, ne nosim ih. jer život u nekim zemljama, poput ove moje, tek je kod prozaičnosti stao…)

neko je primetio da postoji sličnost između josepha beuysa i njega. složila bih se i tu. i baš mi se sviđa što ne posećuje partije i sva ta kao obavezna, oficijalna smaranja. prodaje po probranim mestima (dover street market u londonu, autumn sonata, shanghai… ). cenim da bi se njegovi šeširi svideli i mačku dr seussa. i neobičnom (sjajnom!) kineskom umetniku sa imenom luo xu (o kome se spremam da pišem)…

pravi i muziku i kratke filmove…. i nameštaj. i fotografiše. a nosi ga na pr. i richard serra.

i diane keaton, kojoj je jedan od omiljenih kreatora.

diane keaton, vanity fair cover photographed by annie leibovitz, steal her style vickiarcher

diane keaton za vanity fear, annie leibovitz

Paul Harnden at work

paul  harnden stvara

Paul Harnden Shoemakers - Google 検索

sve te cipele… 

Paul Harnden Red Shoe. My life would be complete if only I owned a pair of these!!!!

paul harnden

paul harnden

Paul-Harnden-womens-jacket.

Paul Harnden:Paul Harnden (ポールハーンデン) コート/買取実績/ナチュラル系ブランド宅配買取専門店ドロップ[drop]

Paul Harnden - Wool Twill 4 Button Blazer Jacket by Evergreen Consignment

Paul Harnden Shoemakers Women's Black Jacket 50% Wool 50% Linen

This is Paul Harnden's view of the world.

http://www.paulharndenshoemakers.com

https://vimeo.com/82275312

Paul Harnden Shoemakers www.autumn-sonata.com

autumn sonata, shanghai

http://www.song.at/songsong/paul-harnden/

screening: let them believe (2014), paul harnden and stuart pitkin, 3rd october, 19:30, 20:30.

let everything that’s been planned come true
let them believe
and let them have a laugh at their passions
because what they call passion actually is not some emotional energy
but just a friction between their souls and the outside world
and most important let them believe in themselves
let them be helpless like children
because weakness is a great thing and strength is nothing
when a man is just born he is weak and flexible
when he dies he is hard and insensitive
when a tree is growing it is tender and pliant
but when it is dry and hard it dies
hardness and strength are death’s companions
pliancy and weakness are expressions of the freshness of being
because what has hardened will never win.

 

 

Oglasi

not building a wall but making a brick or mount mogan fashion week

obavezno neka (bilo koja) murakamijeva knjiga. i pitanje. da mi odgovori. onako uzgred. o čemu razmišlja dok trči po danu nalik ovom vetrovitom? i peljevin! kog vraga radi u budističkom manastiru dok pada kiša?da li bi došao kada bih ga pozvala na ovu nedelju mode?

//

necessarily a book (any) by murakami. and  a question. to be answered. casually, by the way. what is he thinking about while running on a windy day, like the one today? and pelevin! what the hell is he doing in a buddhist monastery while it’s raining? would he come had i invited him to the forthcoming fashion week?

i lao ce. preko planine mogan (200 km od šangaja) 4d mapiranje njegovih mudrosti. da se vide iz aviona. i odande. sa onog sveta.

glava mi je kao košnica ovih dana.  kakofonija. a lepo me brian eno upućuje: “ne zidanje zida, već izrada cigle“/ “zaobilazne strategije”. preko preče, naokolo bliže. zato zaobilazne strategije. da bi se stiglo.

zamišljam nedelju modu tamo daleko, u brdama i gorama, po vetru i kiši, daleko od instant-poznatih, bliceva, selfija, neophodnih, suvišnih… u miru. i skladu. da u prvom redu sede lame, čuvari kozjeg stada, proizvođači kašmira i berači čaja, posvećeni i zaljubljeni u lepo i dobro.  zephy lou & kian zhang iz old lyric / autumn sonata su glavni selektori te nedelje mode. jedini dozvoljeni video zapis bi smeo da radi abbas kiarostami. i barem dva dana morala bi (zbog scenografije i svežine posle) da pada kiša. tamo na dalekom istoku, na planini mogan… scenografiju bi radio shengxuan zhu.

kod njega bismo i odseli. i bili bismo pažljivi gosti… hodali bismo kao gejše, jedva čujno. i svi bismo se neusiljeno osmehivali.

//

and lao tze. 4d mapping of his wisdoms over the mogan mountain (200 km from shanghai). to be seen from the plane. and from over there. from the other world.

my had is like a bee hive these days. cacophony. and brian eno has been guiding me : ‘not building a wall, but making a brick’/the oblique strategies.

i’m imagining a fashion week far away, in the mountains and valleys, in the wind and rain, far away from instant – celebrities, camera flashes, selfies, the unnecessary, over the top… in peace. and harmony.  lamas, goat shepherds, tea pickers sitting in the first row, in love with beauty and goodness. zephy lou & kian zhang from old lyric/ autumn sonata are the main selectors of that fashion week.  the only videa allowed  would have to be made by abbas kiarostami. and there would have to rain for at least two days (for the scenery and the freshness in the aftermath). there, in the far east, on the mogan mountain… scenography would be made by shengxuan zhu.

we would have stayed in his place too. and we would have been careful guests… we would have been walking as geisha’s, soundlessly. and we would have smiled casually.

mogan mount, , zhejiang province, china

http://www.kreuzzz.com

reviju šešira i kapa ateljea kreuzzzz bismo videli na otvaranju. započela bi napolju, a onda bi, uz pomoć onih koji imaju moć, pljusnula kiša. i abbas kiarostami bi uradio sjajan posao… on zna:

in the total darkness, poetry is still there, and it is there for you…  abbas kiarostami
//

the opening runway show would have been that of hat atelier kreuzzz. it would have begun outside, and then, with the help of those who have the power, the rain would start pouring…. and abbas kiarostami would have done a great job…he knows: in the total darkness, poetry is still there, and it is there for you… abbas kiarostami

Abbas Kiarostami: ABBAS KIAROSTAMI RAIN (23) 2007

abbas kiarostami, rain, 2007

muzikу posle vetra i kiše dobijaju oni: david sylvian, brian enoryuichi sakamoto.

prostor i vreme između kreuzzz-a i kraja prepuštam, sa puno poverenja, zephy i kian, ali na kraju moraju biti junya watanabe, comme des garçons i yohji yamamoto. 

//

the music after the rain and wind i leave to them: david sylvian, brian eno and ryuchi sakamoto.

time and space between the kreuzzz and the end i leave, with much confidence to zephy and kian, but in the end there has to be junyaa watanabe, comme des garçons and yohji yamamoto.

Junya Watanabe, Comme des Garcons and Yohji Yamamoto

junya watanabe, comme des garçons & yohji yamamoto. 

 

dame i gospodo, drugovi i drugarice, koze, ovse, psi, berači čaji, viktore peljevinu and co. bio bi to mount mogan fashion week.

//

ladies and gentleman, comrades, goats, sheep, dogs, tea pickers, victor pelevin and co. it would have been mount mogan fashion week.

autumn sonata

kad jednom odem u šangaj… potražiću onaj čudesno dvojac  iz nekadešnjeg carstva old lyric, zephy lou & kian zhang, na novom mestu, još lepšem (stogodišnja  trospratna zgrada sa preko 200 metara kvadratnih)… tamo gde je njihova autumn sonata. na adresi:  72 wuyuan road, shanghai. dok su bili old lyric pisala sam o njima. ovo.

u međuvremenu sanjam. sanjarim. i šetam ovde:

http://kian0538.tumblr.com

i ovde:

https://www.facebook.com/autumnsonatashanghai/?fref=ts

i ovde:

http://www.setbyus.com/instagram/user/zephyrance

a jednog dana izšetaću iz snova i kucnuću na ovo staklo ovde…

 

a ti kuda ti šetaš ove jeseni? da li si gledao bergmanovu “jesenju sonatu” iz godine kada se zephy i kian nisu ni rodili?

one day god may want to use me,
and release me from my prison.
i feel so left out of everything.
i’m always homesick.
but when i do come home,
i realise it must be something else
that i want… (autumn sonata, bergman)

autumn sonata“, ingmar bergman, 1978

zephyrance 爱德华时代少女什么的。。👶

zephy lou &

kian zhang

zephyrance Happy Birthday dear @kian0538 ❤️

jacket: by walid

šta sve možete da nađete u autumn sonata kraljevstvu:

garment reproduction of worker

coat&dress: deepmoss limited collection for autumn sonata