dve nove kineske priče

JEWELRY 08

 

priča već zvuči poznato: yirantian guo (郭一然天) rođena i odrasla u kini (1991), studirala u londonu. imam utisak da gotovi svi najbolji kineski modni dizajneri se školuju u londonu. jasno je i zašto. tamo su najbolje škole. a posle školovanja, treba odabrati svoj put… kada dolaziš  iz zemlje koja je tako mnogoljudna zasigurno je teže razviti i sačuvati svoju individualnost. i forsirati upravo to: individualnost, kreativnost, igru, traganje za novim konstrukcijama kroz dekonstrukciju, dekonstrukciju postojećeg, ući u istraživanje koje nikada ne prestaje… ne ići utabanim stazama, već pronaći svoj put stavljanjem postojećih elemenata u nove odnose, jer elementi su znani, tu su oduvek…. jedna od njenih prvih kreacija se i zvala “un” (unconventional combinations). za tu kolekciju inspiraciju je našla u kubizmu, ali kaže da je inspiriše sve oko nje. jer, znaš:

Резултат слика за everything is interesting

yirantian guo ima svoj brand “yirantian“, dizajnira odeću i nakit i evo ovde možeš da pogledaš šta ona radi:

http://yirantian.com

ovo je ona:

 

keywords:  

deconstruction, abstraction and modernism

YIRANTIAN image

YIRANTIAN image

iz kine dolazi i renLi su. i sličan životni put. nakon osnovnih studija u pekingu londonsko školovanje – london college of fashion. i poput ostalih najboljih mladih kineskih dizajnera modele i yuangtian guo i renli su možeš u pekingu i šangaju naći u dong liang studiju… ali, jedna drugačija priča. prirodni, ručno rađeni materijali… jedna nostalgična priča koja bi te pre navela da pomisliš na njeno hrišćansko, englesko, a ne kinesko poreklo. na prvi pogled…

http://www.renlisu.com

na njenom sajtu stoji ovo:

time & memory

in 17ss, creative director renli su inspired by multiple mythical stories about the ocean and angels of bravery.  the first story is from christian mythological stories. according to christian angelic hierarchy, virtues are said to be the chief bestowers of grace and valor. like a guiding light for humans feeling lost and dejected, they watch over nature and encourage humans. the second story is about lin moniang, which is the human name of ma-tsu, the chinese patron goddess hailing from renli’s hometown of fujian province in china. she was a goddess who was said to protect seafarers and fishermen out at sea.  these mythological stories have a common thread of inspiration and hope when times are tough, and this was a focal point of renli’s exploration.  ​

 

“i like humble, quiet, subtle things,i  like to transfer it to the collection: i believe people can feel it.” (renLi su)

keywords:

handmade, organic, comfort, simplicity and beauty

Сродна слика

gore i dole njena kolekcija s/s 2014

Сродна слика

ona je u sredini

 

when i was little i spent a lot of time with my grandparents and it was lovely. especially my granddad who is skilled with traditional chinese instruments and in calligraphy. watching them influenced the way i see eastern culture. the town where i grew up is also heavily influenced by buddhism, so there are many local craft places that produce the outerwear and embroidery for the religion. that has always inspired me. i often visit those hand-crafted places that remind me of home when i’m abroad. (renli su)

Фотографија корисника RENLI SU

Фотографија корисника RENLI SU

ipak, u njenoj  najnovijoj kolekciji (a/w 2017) čitamo jasno kinesku priču.

 

taking inspiration for her new collection from her roots, renLi su’s thoughts returned to her small seaside hometown in china’s fujian province and specifically to the sea; it’s changing shapes, patterns and colours. now based in london, she seeks solace and inspiration in nature, finding it a useful bridge to overcome homesickness and cultural difference as a chinese designer in the west.

(renli su)

 

a ovo je to mesto gde možeš ako si u pekingu ili šangaju da nađeš i ove dve mlade kreatorke koje žive i rade između kine i londona – dong liang studio. samo kratko za prvo predstavljanje. tek da stekneš prvu sliku o ovom magičnom mestu. ja bih volela i da ga lično vidim. na obe adrese.

http://en.dongliangchina.com

what is DONGLIANG? the answer may vary for different people. to designers, it is a buyer shop. to customers, it is a multi-brand store. it has been almost five years since we launched the first DONGLIANG store in beijing in august, 2009. DONGLIANG started off together with chinese fashion industry and grew up with the local fashion forces.  (dongliang studio)

imaju i svoj magazin, crow magazine. i blog!

znaš, tamo se svašta dešava, ne samo prodaja garderobe i revije, nego i  (kvalitetne) izložbe, koncerti, promocije knjiga, umetnika, programa…

npr.

“silence of 4’33”. “

this mini exhibition is inspired by JOHN CAGE’s creation in 1952. we poured the three concrete cube, hand-made the exhibition poster, set the lights… we hope this delicate musical philosophy can be converted into a visual presentation.

DONGLIANG BEIJING Doingliang Studio

No.102, 2-BUILDING, CENTRAL PARK, No.6, CHAOWAI STREET,
CHAOYANG DISTRICT, BEIJING

DONGLIANG SHANGHAI

No.184, FUMIN ROAD, JING’AN DISTRICT, SHANGHAI

na pitanje šta je za nju moda, tasha liu, suosnivač dong liang studija kaže:

a way to find your own identity and individuality.

***

i laku noć…

Oglasi

g(old) ili šta sve možeš u kini kada si star, a tako mlad…

ne mora da bude kao u tinovoj “svakidašnjoj jadikovki”. mislim posebno na onaj deo kada kaže da je mučno, najmučnije, biti već star, a tako mlad…

evo šta sve možeš u kini kada si star, a  mlad:

možeš da postaneš filmski ili modni star, npr.

dame imaju prednost:

h u a n g   y a n z h e n  (黄炎贞)

74 godine. šta kažeš?  ova lepa žena  na harliju zove se huang yanzhen. zovu je goddess granny. u njenom životu nije sve bilo bajno, sa 18 godina su je udali, danju je radila teške poslove u polju, a uveče se bavila glumom… tek sada ostvaruje svoje snove, poput putovanja na tibet i šetanja modnom pistom. kaže da su godine samo brojke i da nikada nije kasno da ostvariš svoje snove.

What style she has! She dons a green and metallic coat, teaming it up with large oval sunglasses and cherub earings

65b5de9egw1f7ix91kam6j2328225b2c

65b5de9egw1f7ix309puyj22zj208npe

fotografisao ju je ding guoliang, poznat u kini pod imenom xiaoyejiexi. njegove fotografije preuzela sam sa sajta  what’s on weibo koji je kreirala sinolog i japanolog iz holandije, manya koetse i sa shanghaidaily.com.
btw. ovo dole je ding guoliang sa svojim 85. godišnjim dedom, bivšim farmerom koji je ceo život uzgajao pirinač i bambus, a od koga je unuk sada napravio modnu ikonu. ding guoliang smatra da i stari ljudi zavređuju pažnju i da je i njima potrebno malo uzbuđenja u životu. ja se slažem.

 

d e s h u n   w a n g

 

81-godišnji deshun wang postao je poznat široj javnosti nakon što se pretprošle godine pojavio na nedelji mode u pekingu kao model na reviji kineskog dizajenera hu sheguanga i pokazao besprekoran torzo i neverovatnu energiju. ovaj pozorišni i filmski glumac sa 44 je počeo da uči engleski, sa 49 godina ostavio je sve i otišao u peking gde je živeo kao skitnica. u pedesetoj je prvi put je ušao u fitnes klub, a sa 57 se vratio na scenu i stvorio svoj jedinstveni umetnički program „living sculpture performance“. poručuje: „niko ne može da vas spreči da uspete osim vas samih. kada dođe vreme da zasijate, budute najsjaniji!“

 

evo ga u glavnoj ulozi u filmu seven days koji je režirao xing jian. pogledaj. film je odličan. ima i zvaničnu potvrdu sa filmskog festivala u montrealu 2016.

for fashion lovers, not for followers

kada se zovete leaf greener već skrećete pažnju na sebe (pravo ime ye zi). ona zna svašta nešto o modi, jer ima ohoho iskustva u tom svetu i igra se u njemu samouvereno i kao devojčica. leaf greener je rođena u beijingu, živi u šangaju i ostatku sveta. unuka je nekadasnjeg ambasadora kine u londonu. ova digital fashion kraljica vrhunski je stilista i kreativni konsultant. studirala je istoriju umetnosti i modni dizajn. godinama je radila u kineskim izdanjima vodećih modnih magazina, a sada je nezavisna, osnovala je svoj mobile magazina leaf (na u kini veopma popularnoj weChat app). promoviše i pruža podršku talentovanim mladim kineskim dizajnerima. svoj sopstveni stil opisuje kao: twisted chic, playful-meets-old-fashioned.

a ovo je njen šangaj:

ovako ju je video adam katz sinding

I feel like I'm a rule-breaker. Chinese people hate it when you wear high heels and socks, but I love it.

na svom youtube kanalu farfetch u serijalu “the unfollowers” slavi individualce u svetu mode. naslov ovog posta je njihov moto. leaf greener se zasluženo našla tu.

njen moto je: live simple, dress cool.

Leaf Greener.

jpmv

‘i don’t really feel like i’m involved with trends, i just wear something for myself. i just like this stuff, i will wear it, that’s it. i don’t like being “trendy trendy”. if i could choose one item of clothing to wear for ever and ever and ever it would be pyjamas. i want to live in morocco in pyjamas.” (leaf)

Leaf Greener, All Over Press.

all over press

recommend us a book that changed your life? fight club by chuck palahniuk. i love the writing: “we’re the middle children of history, man. no purpose or place. we have no great war. no great depression. our great war is a spiritual war. our great depression is our lives. we’ve all been raised on television to believe that one day we’d all be millionaires, and movie gods, and rock stars, but we won’t. you are not your job. you’re not how much money you have in the bank. you’re not the car you drive. you’re not the contents of your wallet. you’re not your fucking khakis. you’re the all-singing, all-dancing crap of the world. (leaf greener)

adam katz sinding

leaf greener

fashion encourages creativity. i enjoy the optimism and fantasy that comes with it. the pure energy drives us to live and create things beyond what we imagine we could.

but at the end of the day, its all material goods. i don’t have anything in my wardrobe that I can’t live without because you only really need your soul.

(leaf greener)

yin chao. yang?

yin chao

yin caho – jedan od najpoznatijih kineskih modnih fotografa. vlasnik studija super studio, sarađuje sa vodećim modnim časopisima i brendovima.  volim atmosferu istoka na njegovim fotografijama.to  što ne beži od nje…

 

harmony 

east to the west in ‘harmony’. schön magazine, june 2013

elle vietnam,  march 2013, editorial: going east

 

harper’s bazaar china november 2013, exotic escape

 

yin chao – model, 

harper’s bazaar chinasource: superyinchao.compublished: february 2015

harper’s bazaar china, march 2015

eastern twins, cosmopolitan china, april 2015

 

when the world knows beauty as beauty, ugliness arises
when it knows good as good, evil arises
thus being and non-being produce each other
difficult and easy bring about each other
long and short reveal each other
high and low support each other
music and voice harmonize each other
front and back follow each other
therefore the sages:
manage the work of detached actions
conduct the teaching of no words
they work with myriad things but do not control
they create but do not possess
they act but do not presume
they succeed but do not dwell on success
it is because they do not dwell on success
that it never goes away

(tao te ching)

masha ma

masha ma!!! nedavno je the guardian objavio sjajan intervju sa njom. rođena je 1985. u pekingu. odrasla je sa bakom koja je uspela od očiju jurišnika kulturne revolucije da sačuva poneki lični lepi predmet, poput kutije za nakit, jer joj je esteika značila tako mnogo. tako je i odgajala unuku. roditelji su joj radili van kine. masha ma već sa 16 godina zna šta želi i to što želi ima sreće da ima šanse i da realizuje i odlazi u london na studije. i to tamo gde će steći najbolje modno obrazovanje. na central saint martins. sa samo 12 godina u elle magazinu se divila alexanderu mcqueenu, a 2007. u londonu sarađuje upravo sa njime. masha je sitna, polovina lica joj je zaklonjena kosom, ali njen stav je pobednički, engleski joj je snažan i ako biste je samo slušali ne biste pogodili da dolazi iz kine. po okončanju studija i osvajanja modnog londona i pariza vraća se u kinu, u šangaj i odatle nastavlja svoju modnu misiju. jednom nedeljno putuje za pariz. ima široko opšte obrazovanje i veliku radoznalost. znala sam da će mi se svideti sve što radi kada sam pročitala da voli kafku, oscara wilda… a njena priča kako je upoznala danteovo delo dovela me je do suza od smeha. elem, kinezi su u njenoj ranoj mladosti, u svom prevodu danteoovog “pakla” (a verovatno i ostalih dela sa zapada) dali sebi popriličnu slobobodu, pa je “pakao” na kineskom mashi zazvučao kao neka lepršava literatura, samo su je zbunjivale ilustracije sandra botticellija koje su bile u dubokom kontrastu sa sadržajem prevoda…

sandro botticelli, abyss of hell, dante, inferno

the chinese translation made the text sound like a happy sunday outing, but the drawings depicted a bloody nightmare. i stared at the pages for hours trying to understand what was going on. something was very wrong.” (masha ma)

sandro botticelli, dante

“i’ve always been attracted to the darker side of things.” (masha ma)

Masha Ma 2014-2015 Fall Autumn Winter Womens Runway Looks - Paris France Catwalk Fashion Show - Samurai Kimono Robe Wrap Layers Ruffles Drapery Masks Outerwear Coat Cloak Bell Sleeves Dovetail Wide Leg Roll Up Fold Chunky Knit Crochet Lace Peek-a-Boo Crop Top Midriff Straps Embellishments Pierce Through Embroidery Flowers Florals Dress Skirt Frock

f/w 2014

“i’m currently reading the castle by franz kafka again. you need to keep an open mind and have common knowledge. people think designers always read fashion magazines and art books. that’s so ’90s.” (masha ma)

ap photos/zacharie scheurer, masha ma, pfw f/w 2014

FEAT-Masha-Ma-Portrait-巴黎时装周-468x417

masha ma

masha ma

“not be to the best, just to be better”. it’s a mantra she says she’s stuck to since. “fashion at this level is brutal. but if you have that goal to keep improving, if you always give yourself something to work towards, i think you’ll manage to stay alive.” (masha ma)

Masha Ma at Paris Fall 2014

Masha Ma at Paris Fall 2014 (Details)

masha ma 

“i always had this fundamental fear that I was never going to be able to cut my ear off like van gogh” masha ma

Masha Ma | AllegraNoir.com

Masha Ma at Paris Fall 2014 (Backstage)

“working alongside mcQueen has taught me to do fashion for fashion’s sake and to put my emotions into making the dresses.” (masha ma)

oscar-wilde-turth-quote

još jedan od njenih omiljenih pisaca…

masha ma

“anyone can be a designer. i want to build a brand – an international brand from china, based in china and made in china. the problem is ‘made in china’, that’s the concept we need to change, rather than desperately trying to [come up with] artificial hoo-hah designs and calling them avant-garde. 

ma says she designs for the woman “who is never shouting for attention but never silenced either”

 masha ma

palermo, china, summer, vogue italia, poetry

vruće junsko popodne u palermu. gotovo ništa ne radi. vreme sieste. pisala sam o tome na svom drugom blogu već. šetnja uz malu pomoć šešira. granita siciliana. i brioche con gelato. i junsko izdanje vogue italia!

u glavi scene iz wendersovog fila “palermo shooting”… i one kada campino fotografiše trudnu millu jovovich…

sedim na stepeništu prelepopg teatra massimo i listam… kako dobar osećaj, čak i pod užarenim suncem! vogue italia i ja mislimo slično. kineska moda je u ekspanziji. dobroj ekspanziji. donosi ono nešto novo što je nedostajalo. svež vazduh sa istoka. kao početkom osamdesetih prošlog veka što je duvao dobar vetar iz japana. volim istok. volim spoj istoka i zapada.dodir mirnoće i nemira. dodir koji daje lepotu nesavršenosti. na stepeništu zgrade koja, popout toliko toga sa zapada, atakuje na simetriju po svaku cenu, listala sam stranice časopisa na kojima se slavi asimetrično u vizuelnim poemama.

vogue italia june 2015, photo by mario sorrenti, models: gia tang, jing wen, fernanda ly 

The China Issue

vogue italia, june 2015, model fei fei sun, editorial: mert alas & marcus piggott (mert je rođen u turskoj, a marcus u velsu, rade zajedno već ohohoj)

Vogue Italia giugno 2015

fei-fei-sun-vogue-italia-june-2015cs

“the first time i left china was in the fall of 2010, to do a fashion show in london. i only knew a few words in other languages, so i always carried a small dictionary. i didn’t even understand my agent when he spoke. In addition to the language barrier, i remember it was freezing cold and I ran from one casting to another. i was alone. i had a city map to find my way, but it was in english. one day, at an intersection, i realized that I was completely lost. i didn’t know where to go and I was terrified I wouldn’t make it to the casting, which was very important to me. i was about to cry. at that moment i put my hands in my pockets to keep warm, and found a note written by my boyfriend before i left… it is thanks to that coincidence that i am here today”  (…) what was written in the note she found in her pocket? “be brave, baby!”(fei fei sun)

vogue it

visaul poems, tekst koji je napisala sofia mattioli o novoj kineskoj fotografiji između sna i realnosti

uopšte, u ovom broju dominiraju varijante reči “poezija“, a to je upravo ono što nam iz kine stiže kroz modu.

model estelle chen, photo by miles aldridge

Fanta-Mongolia

predstavljen je hu sheguang poreklom iz mongolije i njegova razigrana mašta koja spaja ruralnu i savremenu kinu. imao je upečatljiv nastup na poslednjoj pekinškoj nedelji mode.

Vogue Italia giugno 2015

i pri kraju ovog broja intervju sa umetnicom wang fen koja odnedavno živi sa svojim šestogodišnjim sinom u berlinu i odatle vodi digitalni porodični život sa svojim partnerom. to je čuveni umetnik ai wei wei koji ne može da napusti beijing. wang fen ima 37 godina, scenarista i reditelj je i stoji iza velikog broja filmova koji prate život koji ai weiwei  vodi u tom svojevrsnom zatočeništvu u kini.

Still image: Wang Fen

in the era of internet, films have become like coffee: to be made and consumed quickly. and i don’t want coffee.” – wang fen

chen man, east and west

all reality is a phantom, all phantoms are real.” (chen man  陳漫 , beijing, china)

chen man je fotograf, grafički dizajner i slikar. iz kine, iz pekinga. rođena 1980. u mongoliji. lepa (radi i kao model), obrazovana, uspešna, autentična i ima šta da kaže. pogledaj prvo video dole. dobro ga pogledaj:

 chen man: east-west” at l.a. louver, 2014

kada kažemo kina danas , većina nas pomisli na zemlju koja se vrtoglavo brzo i snažno otvorila prema svetu. prema materijalnom, zapadnom svetu, pre svega. i pomislimo kako više ne nose ama baš svi kinezi ista odela, ne voze bicikl, ne jedu pirinač i ne drže samo restorane i prodavnice nepotrebnih, jeftinih stvari, ako uspeju da odu iz kine. chen man je jedna od onih iz ove velike i magične zemlje koja će nas podučiti da je kina mnogo, mnogo više od ovih stereotipa. chen man o ovim našim stereotipima govori i sa ironijom i sa razumevanjem. živi između kine i usa. između istoka i zapada. između tradicije i novog. i zna, vrlo dobro zna da smo svi različiti. i da smo svi isti. i da novac ne rešava sva. nigde. pa, ni u kini. ističe da je presedan uticaj na nju imaju drevne kineske filozofije, mnogo više nego zapadna kultura i materijalizam, čiji uticaj, međutim, ne poriče. njen stil je eklektički, odražava mnoštvo uticaja pod kojima stvara i živi…

chen man je odrasla u skromnom delu pekinga, u jednoj o donih uskih, pretrpanih, sporednih ulica. već sa dve godine crtala je miševe koji su carevali po kući, a kako su roditelji zapazili da su ti crteži prilično dobri odveli su je kod jednog starog majstora tradicionalnog slikarstva da je podučava. majka je bila lekarka, a otac grafički dizajner koji je pravio revolucionarne postere ogromnih dimenzija. “new york times” je za chen rekao da je pionir vizuelne revolucije u kini. izlaže širom sveta. sarađuje sa najvećim časopisima i brendovima. i govori! ona nije nemi fotograf.

Chen Man<br><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /> 12 Chinese Colors: Eosin 1, 2011<br><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /> c-print<br><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /> 76 3/4 x 51 1/4 in. (195 x 130 cm)<br><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /> Edition of 7, 3 A.P.

chen man, 12 chinese colors: eosin 1, 2011

 

as nothing more than a simple person, i have no power to change the future of mankind or myself. i sincerely hope that communication between people on a spiritual level will see great developments, and not just in numbers or statistics, but something we can all see with the naked eye. not just in form either, but a true balance of idealism and materialism, and worldly recognition of the true beauty of traditional chinese life. only if the majority of people live life in this manner will the world be a beautiful and peaceful place to live, people will have clean air to breath and fresh water to drink, and mankind will be able to attain an ideal and harmonious future.  (chen man, interview)

 

Чен Ман Лонг Ливе Домовина

chen man, long live the motherland, shanghai no. 1, 2010

IMG 0165

“after all, nobody knew how to appreciate picasso’s paintings until after his death. sometimes an artist’s job is to stir up controversy. i’d rather my work be criticised than neglected.” (chen man)

Avant-garde magazine covers photographed by Chen Man for i-D magazine.

Avant-garde magazine covers photographed by Chen Man for i-D magazine.

whatever the weather issue, i-d magazine celebrates 2012 – the year of the dragon with these portraits, photographed by chen man

sites:

http://www.chenmaner.com

http://chenman.vincentshi.com/

 the new generation should stop imitating western, japanese and korean culture, heritage from “old china,” political pop, the played-out symbols of the cultural revolution, and so forth. it’s about time for the new generation to build their own aesthetic and moral language.

(chen man for jing daily“)

here are two kinds of beauty – natural beauty and inner beauty. i believe the combination of natural beauty and inner beauty is what human should strive for, otherwise we may as well go back to being tribal. what people perceive and believe to be “environmentally friendly” determines the fate of our world. our world has become driven by materialism, and therefore it’s ever more important to promote the ideological conception of “harmony” – using minimal resources and maximum intelligence to create a better world. this is what our world needs. my goal is to present this ideological concept of “harmony” with visuals in my work to make it more understandable for people.

(ibidem)

self china magazine, may 2015, sophie marceau by chen man

Outside Inside the Dream, 2012 Copyright Chen Man. Courtesy of L.A. Louver

outside inside the dream, 201o, chen man