Tag Archives: china fashion

g(old) ili šta sve možeš u kini kada si star, a tako mlad…

ne mora da bude kao u tinovoj “svakidašnjoj jadikovki”. mislim posebno na onaj deo kada kaže da je mučno, najmučnije, biti već star, a tako mlad…

evo šta sve možeš u kini kada si star, a  mlad:

možeš da postaneš filmski ili modni star, npr.

dame imaju prednost:

h u a n g   y a n z h e n  (黄炎贞)

74 godine. šta kažeš?  ova lepa žena  na harliju zove se huang yanzhen. zovu je goddess granny. u njenom životu nije sve bilo bajno, sa 18 godina su je udali, danju je radila teške poslove u polju, a uveče se bavila glumom… tek sada ostvaruje svoje snove, poput putovanja na tibet i šetanja modnom pistom. kaže da su godine samo brojke i da nikada nije kasno da ostvariš svoje snove.

What style she has! She dons a green and metallic coat, teaming it up with large oval sunglasses and cherub earings

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fotografisao ju je ding guoliang, poznat u kini pod imenom xiaoyejiexi. njegove fotografije preuzela sam sa sajta  what’s on weibo koji je kreirala sinolog i japanolog iz holandije, manya koetse i sa shanghaidaily.com.
btw. ovo dole je ding guoliang sa svojim 85. godišnjim dedom, bivšim farmerom koji je ceo život uzgajao pirinač i bambus, a od koga je unuk sada napravio modnu ikonu. ding guoliang smatra da i stari ljudi zavređuju pažnju i da je i njima potrebno malo uzbuđenja u životu. ja se slažem.

 

d e s h u n   w a n g

 

81-godišnji deshun wang postao je poznat široj javnosti nakon što se pretprošle godine pojavio na nedelji mode u pekingu kao model na reviji kineskog dizajenera hu sheguanga i pokazao besprekoran torzo i neverovatnu energiju. ovaj pozorišni i filmski glumac sa 44 je počeo da uči engleski, sa 49 godina ostavio je sve i otišao u peking gde je živeo kao skitnica. u pedesetoj je prvi put je ušao u fitnes klub, a sa 57 se vratio na scenu i stvorio svoj jedinstveni umetnički program „living sculpture performance“. poručuje: „niko ne može da vas spreči da uspete osim vas samih. kada dođe vreme da zasijate, budute najsjaniji!“

 

evo ga u glavnoj ulozi u filmu seven days koji je režirao xing jian. pogledaj. film je odličan. ima i zvaničnu potvrdu sa filmskog festivala u montrealu 2016.

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Filed under art, china, east, fashion, wildsidefashion

for fashion lovers, not for followers

kada se zovete leaf greener već skrećete pažnju na sebe (pravo ime ye zi). ona zna svašta nešto o modi, jer ima ohoho iskustva u tom svetu i igra se u njemu samouvereno i kao devojčica. leaf greener je rođena u beijingu, živi u šangaju i ostatku sveta. unuka je nekadasnjeg ambasadora kine u londonu. ova digital fashion kraljica vrhunski je stilista i kreativni konsultant. studirala je istoriju umetnosti i modni dizajn. godinama je radila u kineskim izdanjima vodećih modnih magazina, a sada je nezavisna, osnovala je svoj mobile magazina leaf (na u kini veopma popularnoj weChat app). promoviše i pruža podršku talentovanim mladim kineskim dizajnerima. svoj sopstveni stil opisuje kao: twisted chic, playful-meets-old-fashioned.

a ovo je njen šangaj:

ovako ju je video adam katz sinding

I feel like I'm a rule-breaker. Chinese people hate it when you wear high heels and socks, but I love it.

na svom youtube kanalu farfetch u serijalu “the unfollowers” slavi individualce u svetu mode. naslov ovog posta je njihov moto. leaf greener se zasluženo našla tu.

njen moto je: live simple, dress cool.

Leaf Greener.

jpmv

‘i don’t really feel like i’m involved with trends, i just wear something for myself. i just like this stuff, i will wear it, that’s it. i don’t like being “trendy trendy”. if i could choose one item of clothing to wear for ever and ever and ever it would be pyjamas. i want to live in morocco in pyjamas.” (leaf)

Leaf Greener, All Over Press.

all over press

recommend us a book that changed your life? fight club by chuck palahniuk. i love the writing: “we’re the middle children of history, man. no purpose or place. we have no great war. no great depression. our great war is a spiritual war. our great depression is our lives. we’ve all been raised on television to believe that one day we’d all be millionaires, and movie gods, and rock stars, but we won’t. you are not your job. you’re not how much money you have in the bank. you’re not the car you drive. you’re not the contents of your wallet. you’re not your fucking khakis. you’re the all-singing, all-dancing crap of the world. (leaf greener)

adam katz sinding

leaf greener

fashion encourages creativity. i enjoy the optimism and fantasy that comes with it. the pure energy drives us to live and create things beyond what we imagine we could.

but at the end of the day, its all material goods. i don’t have anything in my wardrobe that I can’t live without because you only really need your soul.

(leaf greener)

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Filed under Adam Katz Sinding, farfetch, leaf, leaf greener, shanghai, the unfollowers

yin chao. yang?

yin chao

yin caho – jedan od najpoznatijih kineskih modnih fotografa. vlasnik studija super studio, sarađuje sa vodećim modnim časopisima i brendovima.  volim atmosferu istoka na njegovim fotografijama.to  što ne beži od nje…

 

harmony 

east to the west in ‘harmony’. schön magazine, june 2013

elle vietnam,  march 2013, editorial: going east

 

harper’s bazaar china november 2013, exotic escape

 

yin chao – model, 

harper’s bazaar chinasource: superyinchao.compublished: february 2015

harper’s bazaar china, march 2015

eastern twins, cosmopolitan china, april 2015

 

when the world knows beauty as beauty, ugliness arises
when it knows good as good, evil arises
thus being and non-being produce each other
difficult and easy bring about each other
long and short reveal each other
high and low support each other
music and voice harmonize each other
front and back follow each other
therefore the sages:
manage the work of detached actions
conduct the teaching of no words
they work with myriad things but do not control
they create but do not possess
they act but do not presume
they succeed but do not dwell on success
it is because they do not dwell on success
that it never goes away

(tao te ching)

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masha ma

masha ma!!! nedavno je the guardian objavio sjajan intervju sa njom. rođena je 1985. u pekingu. odrasla je sa bakom koja je uspela od očiju jurišnika kulturne revolucije da sačuva poneki lični lepi predmet, poput kutije za nakit, jer joj je esteika značila tako mnogo. tako je i odgajala unuku. roditelji su joj radili van kine. masha ma već sa 16 godina zna šta želi i to što želi ima sreće da ima šanse i da realizuje i odlazi u london na studije. i to tamo gde će steći najbolje modno obrazovanje. na central saint martins. sa samo 12 godina u elle magazinu se divila alexanderu mcqueenu, a 2007. u londonu sarađuje upravo sa njime. masha je sitna, polovina lica joj je zaklonjena kosom, ali njen stav je pobednički, engleski joj je snažan i ako biste je samo slušali ne biste pogodili da dolazi iz kine. po okončanju studija i osvajanja modnog londona i pariza vraća se u kinu, u šangaj i odatle nastavlja svoju modnu misiju. jednom nedeljno putuje za pariz. ima široko opšte obrazovanje i veliku radoznalost. znala sam da će mi se svideti sve što radi kada sam pročitala da voli kafku, oscara wilda… a njena priča kako je upoznala danteovo delo dovela me je do suza od smeha. elem, kinezi su u njenoj ranoj mladosti, u svom prevodu danteoovog “pakla” (a verovatno i ostalih dela sa zapada) dali sebi popriličnu slobobodu, pa je “pakao” na kineskom mashi zazvučao kao neka lepršava literatura, samo su je zbunjivale ilustracije sandra botticellija koje su bile u dubokom kontrastu sa sadržajem prevoda…

sandro botticelli, abyss of hell, dante, inferno

the chinese translation made the text sound like a happy sunday outing, but the drawings depicted a bloody nightmare. i stared at the pages for hours trying to understand what was going on. something was very wrong.” (masha ma)

sandro botticelli, dante

“i’ve always been attracted to the darker side of things.” (masha ma)

Masha Ma 2014-2015 Fall Autumn Winter Womens Runway Looks - Paris France Catwalk Fashion Show - Samurai Kimono Robe Wrap Layers Ruffles Drapery Masks Outerwear Coat Cloak Bell Sleeves Dovetail Wide Leg Roll Up Fold Chunky Knit Crochet Lace Peek-a-Boo Crop Top Midriff Straps Embellishments Pierce Through Embroidery Flowers Florals Dress Skirt Frock

f/w 2014

“i’m currently reading the castle by franz kafka again. you need to keep an open mind and have common knowledge. people think designers always read fashion magazines and art books. that’s so ’90s.” (masha ma)

ap photos/zacharie scheurer, masha ma, pfw f/w 2014

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masha ma

masha ma

“not be to the best, just to be better”. it’s a mantra she says she’s stuck to since. “fashion at this level is brutal. but if you have that goal to keep improving, if you always give yourself something to work towards, i think you’ll manage to stay alive.” (masha ma)

Masha Ma at Paris Fall 2014

Masha Ma at Paris Fall 2014 (Details)

masha ma 

“i always had this fundamental fear that I was never going to be able to cut my ear off like van gogh” masha ma

Masha Ma | AllegraNoir.com

Masha Ma at Paris Fall 2014 (Backstage)

“working alongside mcQueen has taught me to do fashion for fashion’s sake and to put my emotions into making the dresses.” (masha ma)

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još jedan od njenih omiljenih pisaca…

masha ma

“anyone can be a designer. i want to build a brand – an international brand from china, based in china and made in china. the problem is ‘made in china’, that’s the concept we need to change, rather than desperately trying to [come up with] artificial hoo-hah designs and calling them avant-garde. 

ma says she designs for the woman “who is never shouting for attention but never silenced either”

 masha ma

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palermo, china, summer, vogue italia, poetry

vruće junsko popodne u palermu. gotovo ništa ne radi. vreme sieste. pisala sam o tome na svom drugom blogu već. šetnja uz malu pomoć šešira. granita siciliana. i brioche con gelato. i junsko izdanje vogue italia!

u glavi scene iz wendersovog fila “palermo shooting”… i one kada campino fotografiše trudnu millu jovovich…

sedim na stepeništu prelepopg teatra massimo i listam… kako dobar osećaj, čak i pod užarenim suncem! vogue italia i ja mislimo slično. kineska moda je u ekspanziji. dobroj ekspanziji. donosi ono nešto novo što je nedostajalo. svež vazduh sa istoka. kao početkom osamdesetih prošlog veka što je duvao dobar vetar iz japana. volim istok. volim spoj istoka i zapada.dodir mirnoće i nemira. dodir koji daje lepotu nesavršenosti. na stepeništu zgrade koja, popout toliko toga sa zapada, atakuje na simetriju po svaku cenu, listala sam stranice časopisa na kojima se slavi asimetrično u vizuelnim poemama.

vogue italia june 2015, photo by mario sorrenti, models: gia tang, jing wen, fernanda ly 

The China Issue

vogue italia, june 2015, model fei fei sun, editorial: mert alas & marcus piggott (mert je rođen u turskoj, a marcus u velsu, rade zajedno već ohohoj)

Vogue Italia giugno 2015

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“the first time i left china was in the fall of 2010, to do a fashion show in london. i only knew a few words in other languages, so i always carried a small dictionary. i didn’t even understand my agent when he spoke. In addition to the language barrier, i remember it was freezing cold and I ran from one casting to another. i was alone. i had a city map to find my way, but it was in english. one day, at an intersection, i realized that I was completely lost. i didn’t know where to go and I was terrified I wouldn’t make it to the casting, which was very important to me. i was about to cry. at that moment i put my hands in my pockets to keep warm, and found a note written by my boyfriend before i left… it is thanks to that coincidence that i am here today”  (…) what was written in the note she found in her pocket? “be brave, baby!”(fei fei sun)

vogue it

visaul poems, tekst koji je napisala sofia mattioli o novoj kineskoj fotografiji između sna i realnosti

uopšte, u ovom broju dominiraju varijante reči “poezija“, a to je upravo ono što nam iz kine stiže kroz modu.

model estelle chen, photo by miles aldridge

Fanta-Mongolia

predstavljen je hu sheguang poreklom iz mongolije i njegova razigrana mašta koja spaja ruralnu i savremenu kinu. imao je upečatljiv nastup na poslednjoj pekinškoj nedelji mode.

Vogue Italia giugno 2015

i pri kraju ovog broja intervju sa umetnicom wang fen koja odnedavno živi sa svojim šestogodišnjim sinom u berlinu i odatle vodi digitalni porodični život sa svojim partnerom. to je čuveni umetnik ai wei wei koji ne može da napusti beijing. wang fen ima 37 godina, scenarista i reditelj je i stoji iza velikog broja filmova koji prate život koji ai weiwei  vodi u tom svojevrsnom zatočeništvu u kini.

Still image: Wang Fen

in the era of internet, films have become like coffee: to be made and consumed quickly. and i don’t want coffee.” – wang fen

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chen man, east and west

all reality is a phantom, all phantoms are real.” (chen man  陳漫 , beijing, china)

chen man je fotograf, grafički dizajner i slikar. iz kine, iz pekinga. rođena 1980. u mongoliji. lepa (radi i kao model), obrazovana, uspešna, autentična i ima šta da kaže. pogledaj prvo video dole. dobro ga pogledaj:

 chen man: east-west” at l.a. louver, 2014

kada kažemo kina danas , većina nas pomisli na zemlju koja se vrtoglavo brzo i snažno otvorila prema svetu. prema materijalnom, zapadnom svetu, pre svega. i pomislimo kako više ne nose ama baš svi kinezi ista odela, ne voze bicikl, ne jedu pirinač i ne drže samo restorane i prodavnice nepotrebnih, jeftinih stvari, ako uspeju da odu iz kine. chen man je jedna od onih iz ove velike i magične zemlje koja će nas podučiti da je kina mnogo, mnogo više od ovih stereotipa. chen man o ovim našim stereotipima govori i sa ironijom i sa razumevanjem. živi između kine i usa. između istoka i zapada. između tradicije i novog. i zna, vrlo dobro zna da smo svi različiti. i da smo svi isti. i da novac ne rešava sva. nigde. pa, ni u kini. ističe da je presedan uticaj na nju imaju drevne kineske filozofije, mnogo više nego zapadna kultura i materijalizam, čiji uticaj, međutim, ne poriče. njen stil je eklektički, odražava mnoštvo uticaja pod kojima stvara i živi…

chen man je odrasla u skromnom delu pekinga, u jednoj o donih uskih, pretrpanih, sporednih ulica. već sa dve godine crtala je miševe koji su carevali po kući, a kako su roditelji zapazili da su ti crteži prilično dobri odveli su je kod jednog starog majstora tradicionalnog slikarstva da je podučava. majka je bila lekarka, a otac grafički dizajner koji je pravio revolucionarne postere ogromnih dimenzija. “new york times” je za chen rekao da je pionir vizuelne revolucije u kini. izlaže širom sveta. sarađuje sa najvećim časopisima i brendovima. i govori! ona nije nemi fotograf.

Chen Man<br><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /> 12 Chinese Colors: Eosin 1, 2011<br><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /> c-print<br><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /> 76 3/4 x 51 1/4 in. (195 x 130 cm)<br><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /> Edition of 7, 3 A.P.

chen man, 12 chinese colors: eosin 1, 2011

 

as nothing more than a simple person, i have no power to change the future of mankind or myself. i sincerely hope that communication between people on a spiritual level will see great developments, and not just in numbers or statistics, but something we can all see with the naked eye. not just in form either, but a true balance of idealism and materialism, and worldly recognition of the true beauty of traditional chinese life. only if the majority of people live life in this manner will the world be a beautiful and peaceful place to live, people will have clean air to breath and fresh water to drink, and mankind will be able to attain an ideal and harmonious future.  (chen man, interview)

 

Чен Ман Лонг Ливе Домовина

chen man, long live the motherland, shanghai no. 1, 2010

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“after all, nobody knew how to appreciate picasso’s paintings until after his death. sometimes an artist’s job is to stir up controversy. i’d rather my work be criticised than neglected.” (chen man)

Avant-garde magazine covers photographed by Chen Man for i-D magazine.

Avant-garde magazine covers photographed by Chen Man for i-D magazine.

whatever the weather issue, i-d magazine celebrates 2012 – the year of the dragon with these portraits, photographed by chen man

sites:

http://www.chenmaner.com

http://chenman.vincentshi.com/

 the new generation should stop imitating western, japanese and korean culture, heritage from “old china,” political pop, the played-out symbols of the cultural revolution, and so forth. it’s about time for the new generation to build their own aesthetic and moral language.

(chen man for jing daily“)

here are two kinds of beauty – natural beauty and inner beauty. i believe the combination of natural beauty and inner beauty is what human should strive for, otherwise we may as well go back to being tribal. what people perceive and believe to be “environmentally friendly” determines the fate of our world. our world has become driven by materialism, and therefore it’s ever more important to promote the ideological conception of “harmony” – using minimal resources and maximum intelligence to create a better world. this is what our world needs. my goal is to present this ideological concept of “harmony” with visuals in my work to make it more understandable for people.

(ibidem)

self china magazine, may 2015, sophie marceau by chen man

Outside Inside the Dream, 2012 Copyright Chen Man. Courtesy of L.A. Louver

outside inside the dream, 201o, chen man

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qiu hao

moja drugarica je pre nekih 6 godina radila kao predavač u jednoj visokoj školi za modni dizajn u kini. sećam se da je na moje pitanje kakvi su studenti rekla da su vredni, da će uraditi sve što zadaš, ali se ne upuštaju u osvajanje slobode, što je i suština kreiranja čegagod, pa i mode. bila je razočarana. danas kada gledam kako se modna scena u kini budi, kako je osvežavajuća, nova, drugačija u odnosu na zapadnu, baš kao što je osamdesetih godina 20. veka bila japanska, setim se saveta koje je dao yohji yamamoto: “počni sa kopiranjem i kopiraj, kopiraj, kopiraj. na kraju procesa kopiranja pronaći ćeš sebe.” i to je zaista tako.

dame i gospodo: qiu hao!

nosilac kineske kreativne modne avangarde, čovek koji će zasigurno napraviti čudo na svetskoj modnoj sceni. shvata važnost dobrog obrazovanja, pa je jedna od stanica na njegovom putu i nezaobilazni  central saint martins u londonu.

rođen je 1978. u gradu taicang, jedan sat zapadno od  šangaja. prvo je studirao unutrašnji i prostorni dizajn. osnovao svoju etiketu “qiuhao”, osvojio prestižnu woolmark nagradu. njegove kolekcije prikazane su u parizu, tokiju, sidneju, stokholmu, singapuru. forbs ga je 2010. godine stavio na listu 25 najuticajnijih kineza u svetu mode.

photo by matthieu belin | http://www.matthieubelin.com (gore i dole) 

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‘don’t ask me about inspiration, image is a simple way of saying complicated things.’ (qiu hao)

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TO THE GARDEN, THE WORLD

Walt Whitman

To THE garden, the world, anew ascending,
Potent mates, daughters, sons, preluding,
The love, the life of their bodies, meaning and being,
Curious, here behold my resurrection, after slumber;
The revolving cycles, in their wide sweep, having
         brought me again,
Amorous, mature—all beautiful to me—all wondrous;
My limbs, and the quivering fire that ever plays through
         them, for reasons, most wondrous;
Existing, I peer and penetrate still,
Content with the present—content with the past,
By my side, or back of me, Eve following,
Or in front, and I following her just the same.
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za ove bele kao oblaci modele ipak znamo inspiraciju. kako qiu hao često leti avionom inspiracija je bilo avionsko ćebe. ovi modeli se obmotavaju oko tela žene kao najfiniji omotač od oblaka.

ključne reči za qiu hao:

– minimalizam

– dekonstrukcija

– avangarda

-suptilnost

-mekoća tkanina

-inovativno

-intrigantno

-misteriozno

-dobar ukus

-bezvremensko

-manje je više

-istočnjačka filozofija

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qiu hao izgleda kao dečak, kao poslednji kineski car u bertolučijevom filmu dok je mlad. najčešće je u crnom. kaže da je to sigurna boja. 

o5 photo (up & down) by matthieu balin, francuz sa adresom u šangaju

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http://www.qiuhaoqiuhao.com/

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posebno volim što imamo sličan ukus za poeziju, pa ćeš tako na njegovom sajtu uz opis njegovih kolekcija i izložbi naći stihove whitmana, dylana thomasa… citate sartra… ali i njegova sopstvena razmišljanja koja ushićuju.

the moment of existence naziv je njegove prve solo izložbe koju je qiu hao održao 2013. u šangaju u aroundspace gallery. u press materijalu za izložbu stajalo je:

s’existence précède l’essence——jean-paul sartre

existentialists believe that the meaning of human existence can’t be discovered through rational thinking; they rather emphasize the individuality, freedom and subjective human experience.

a central proposition of existentialism is that there is not an ultimate goal in our world. we often find ourselves living in a hostile world; we cannot avoid making choices of our characteristics, goals and opinions; even no choice is a “choice.”

kombinovao je svilu, papir od pirindža, jagnjeću kožu. konjsku dlaku… suptilno, neočekivano, mistično…

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do you see the flickering light?

i have been running all the way and i think it’s time to slow down. let others race ahead if they win – but i’d rather give it up. as time flies, win or lose – all is rendered meaningless. i slowed my steps for the beautiful things while you raged on and missed the beautiful moments.

the flickering light – do you see it?

 

the moment od existence

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 “chinese fashion does not necessarily mean flaring colors and silk dragons”. qiu hao

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                                    light breaks where no sun shines;
                                    where no sea runs, the waters of the heart
                                    push in their tides;
                                    and, broken ghosts with glow-worms in their heads,
                                    the things of light
                                    file through the flesh where no flesh decks the bones.
                                                                               dylan thomas

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Guo Pei

za guo pei (郭培) kažu da je orijentalna coco chanel (iako ona lično više voli diora od chanel) i kineski odgovor na visoku modu.  njeni modeli podsećaju na bogatu kinesku istoriju pre kulturne revolucije. nedvosmisleno je inspirisana kineskom tradicijom. kada je počinjala moda u kini nije ni postojala. stvara strasno i sa nekom čudesnom lakoćom, kao dete koje se igra. njene haljine su raskošne i tajanstvene kao putevi svile u romanu alessandra bariccoa. kao zabranjeni grad. jedan je od prvih i najvećih kineskih modnih dizajnera. gledali smo njene modele na olimpijadi u pekingu. omiljeni dizajner joj je issey miyake. ceni rad svoje sunarodnice ma ke. kaže da, iako ono što radi se poklapa sa popularnom kulturom, ona nije deo popularne kulture. niti to želi. ova kreatorka je, pre svega, u potrazi za svojim individualnim izrazom. nije ultimativno fokusirana na osvajanje zapadnog tržišta i to je oslobađa u stvaranju.

“od olimpijskih igara 2008. godine shvatila sam koliko sam ponosna što sam kineskinja. svojom zadnjom kolekcijom želela sam da pokažem ovo osećanje. želela sam da pričam o svojoj zemlji, njenoj kulturi i ljudima”

rodila se 1967. godine, a izgleda tako mladoliko. i puna je energije. ono čime me je kupila je ovo što je rekla:

 ” ne bavim se odnosima sa javnošću. fokusirana sam na ljudske odnose. moj san je dа stvaram lepu odeću. biznis nije moj pokretač.”

“ja dizajniram priče. kreacije su moje reči. pričam priče kroz svaki komad odeće koji kreiram i to je moj pravi izraz.”

slavni model carmen dell’orefice (rođena 1931. godine!!!) nosi model  guo pei  iz njene kolekcije “arabian 1002th night“.

photo – lucy mcnally

pročitaj ovo:

http://www.newyorksocialdiary.com/across-the-nationacross-the-world/2013/shanghai-social-diary-7

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ma ke

omg, od kako sam danas otkrila da me ke postoji na ovom svetu ne mogu da prestanem da obavljam rudarsko-geološke poslove po internetu. kopam, kopam, kopam, a ne mogu da odlučim šta me od onoga što iskopavam više oduševljava. braćo i sestre, kinezi su (ponovo) tu. ovog puta “made in china” nije pojam za loš kvalitet i kratkotrajnost. ziggy chen, uma wang, ono dvoje genijalnih mladih ljudio oko old lyric… evo i ma ke, to je onaj najbolji spoj starog i novog u kineskoj kulturi, najbolji spoj istoka i zapada… osamdsetih su to bili japanci (i ostali, jer su kvalitetni), a sada su to na zapadu kinezi. ubeđena sam u to.

exception de mixMind 例外 je jedan od najstarijih avadgardnih kineskih modnih brendova. postoje od 1996. godina. iza brenda stoje bivši supružnici dizajnerski dvojac ma ke i mao jihong. ma ke ( (mǎ kě 马可) je 2006. pokrenula artističku etiketu wuyong. wuyong znači beskoristan. ona stvara od onoga što su ljudi odbacili, objekata i tkanina koje su postale beskorisne ljudima. (ona kaže: “u ovo doba teškog komercijalizma stvari koje ne postižu instant rezultate olako se proglašavaju beskorisnim. previše smo fokusirani na kratkoročni dobitak. korisnost stvari sada često se razlikuje od njihove dugoročne, prave vrednosti.”). to što je nekome olako postalo nepotrebni  ona posvećeno preobražava u neverovatne lepe nosive stvare. ma ke se, dakle, artistički bavi idejom održivosti u modi,  ali i njenom etičkom stranom. ona ima antikonzumerski odnos prema modi. povratak prirodi, poetski pristup življenju, briga o prirodi, o ljudima… anti-moda. koristi ekološki pristup u stvaranju, prednost daje ručnoj proizvodnji, naturalnom u stvaranju, sporom ritmu, verna je tradicionalnom načinu tkanja, veza, bojenja tkanine… i tradiciji uopšte, dajući joj novo ruho u dodiru sa savremenošću… rođena je 1971. u gradu changchu. školovala se u kini i naravno u londonu, na čuvenom central saint martinsu. kineska prva dama kada je putovala u rusiju nosila je exception de mixmind model i od tog momenta postali su veoma traženi, ne samo u kini. mislim da ma ke nije posebno preoduševljena zbog toga. prva wuyong kolekcija (“the earth”) debitovala je na paris fashion weeku, spring/summer 2007, a njena druga kolekcija za wuyong (qing pin) pojavila se na pariskoj nedelji mode 2008.  njen studio je u gradu  zhuhai,  južnoj obali guandong provincije. učestvuje u svim procesima stvaranja odeće… kažu da je njena radionica kao svetilište, mesto za meditaciju i rad… prepuno zelenila, mira, tišine, svetlosti… nerado se pojavljuje u medijima. jednom je nekom novinaru rekla: “ako ste pojeli ukusno jaje, zašto je potrebno da vidite kokošku?”

ona je, zaista, nešto posebno. istinski talenat.

2007. je dobila nagradu za najboljeg azijskog modnog dizajnera, elle style awards. 

u maju 2008. njen rad za etiketu wuyoming predstavljen je u londonu, u victoria & albert muzeju.

http://www.mixmind.com.cn/

 

 

ma ke

ma ke : wu yong chinese fashion

ma ke

kolekcija iz 2008.

njen sjajan site za label wuyong: http://www.wuyonguseless.com/

mao jihong (sasvim desno) u društvu yamamota

Ma Ke

za portal buymedesign.com dala je ovaj neverovatno zanimljiv intervju:

interview in december from hong kong

Buymedesign – TL magazine: You said that “Wuyong” (Useless) is not about fashion and cut. Could you explain the concept?

Ma Ke: Wuyong cares about the wearers’ inner feeling much more than the experience of appearance . It values the spiritual state of mind that the clothing could bring along, more than being “sexy and chic or pretty and elegant” . It is like the difference between western and Chinese painting: the western oil painting is fully filled with pigments on the canvas, while the Chinese water-ink painting leaves most space on the paper for further imagination . Wuyong is purely a self-expressing creation without any other purpose . The clothes are like the worn piece of dusty jacket that can present neither your prestige nor your good figure, but it carries memories through the ages .

Buymedesign – TLm: Could you describe how you work and the materials you use?
Ma Ke: I work with some folk craftsmanship practitioners from the remote countryside of southern China, and I love to create with original materials. We work in a natural and eco-friendly way, which is slow but joyful, similar to the lifestyle of our ancestors. I enjoy what hand-making brings along: a process of self-refinement, a fully devoted state of mind, the touch of the fabric texture, the color changing when the white shirt is put into dyeing . There is nothing astonishing; the work is happening naturally like the fruit falls when it is ripe .

Buymedesign – TLm: What are your inspirations? 

Ma Ke: Nature gives me endless inspiration . It fulfills your heart with all the niceness, so much so that you have a strong desire to share with others . I am also inspired by every ethnic group that has kept its traditional lifestyle and lead a rich spiritual life . They are still part of nature, with which they have kept an intimate relation from generation to generation . Relatively speaking, I am more familiar with Chinese and Asian culture, but what I care about, without geographic boundary, is the common spirit these generic ethnic groups are sharing .

TLm: Jia Zhangke’s documentary about Wu Yong showed footage from garment factories in Guangdong . Do you feel you have a social responsibility as a Chinese designer?

Ma Ke: As a designer, I believe that I have the three following responsibilities:

– Ecological responsibility (the responsibility to the future) . The designer must be responsible for any damage caused by the production process to the ecosystem . He must not work for purely commercial interests and to the detriment of the environment, and must preserve natural resources . The designer must also consider the recyclability of his designs in the interest of long-term sustainable development, and not create disposable products .

– Ethical responsibility (the responsibility to the present) . A designer’s sensibility and creativity should be used as a social role to raise awareness . They mustn’t simply be out to please clients . They shouldn’t over-design, instead they ought to express properly, and not provoke unnecessary desires and promote blind consumption in the pursuit of profit . The most admirable quality in the social role of the designer is honesty . You should not sell your soul for fame or profit .
– Responsibility to pass on cultural heritage (the responsibility to the past) . We are living in a world of the abundant wisdom of generations past, which we should protect and pass on to future generations, instead of cutting off the tradition in our own time . Our cultural inheritance is not to be put in museums, but to interpenetrate our daily lives, to revitalize old traditions through living creativity .

 

Fashion in Motion: Ma Ke Wuyong - Victoria and Albert Museum

Fashion in Motion: Ma Ke Wuyong - Victoria and Albert Museum

Fashion in Motion: Ma Ke Wuyong - Victoria and Albert Museum

IMG_1127

Winter - 2012 - 例外

www.mixmind.com

Autumn--無題木頭 - 2012 - 例外

Ma Ke

Spring - 2011 - 例外

Ma Ke Wuyong

Ma Ke Wuyong

tradicija sa juga kine koja je uticala na ma ke:

2007. nagrađivani kineski reditelj jia zhangke snimio je film o njoj “useless“.( zhangke je dobitnik zlatnog lava u veneciji, zlatne palme u kanu, ove godine je bio član kanskog žirija…)

a ovde je i ceo film:

http://v.youku.com/v_show/id_XNzQ0ODI0NDA=.html

a ovo je intrevju koji je ma ke dala za portal ecofashionworld.com:

Eco Fashion World: Where are you now? Can you describe the environment that surrounds you as you’re answering these questions?
Ma Ke: Right now, I am in my design workshop, located in Zhuihai, a beautiful and peaceful city in Southern China. The workshop is embraced by shades of greenery and trees with hundreds of years of history. In the summer afternoon, you can hear the cicada singing and feel the gentle breeze coming through from the widow.

 

EFW: How did you get started doing eco fashion?
Ma Ke: Maybe I was born an ecologist. Since I was a child, I’ve loved being in nature, surrounded by animals. My first professional idol was the British female zoologist Jane Goodall when I was seven or eight years old. After reading the story of her orangutan studies in the African jungle, I was eager to become a zoologist like her. I’ve had many animal companions since I was a child, and now I am living with seven grown dogs and three new-born puppies in my workshop. Living with animals brings me a profound understanding of how close and interdependent human beings are with nature. It is very important for establishing my view of creation.

EFW: What are your design and artistic inspirations?
Ma Ke: Nature gives me endless inspiration. You should fill you heart with beauty in the first place, thus you will have a strong desire to share with others.

EFW: How do you operate your eco fashion business?
Ma Ke: I don’t think about ecology when I am doing my works. It’s already integrated into my blood; I follow my heart. I also never think about business, as life is more than business. There are fewer necessities in our life than we think.

EFW: Has the international recognition that you’ve received in the past years changed something for you?

Ma Ke: The change in me derives from my growth and exceeding my own limits, it comes from my ongoing thinking, practice and exploration. It has nothing to do with outside recognition.

EFW: What do you think about the production of fashion in China today? Will other designers be inspired to get into sustainable production in the short term, or do you think China has to go through the same cycle as western countries have in the 20th century?
Ma Ke: The fashion industry’s history in China is much shorter than that in the West, it’s only 30 years old. However, China has a rich costume and cloth culture. Our traditional wisdom should lead Chinese people towards a different development from the Western industrial pattern. We have seen the disadvantages that have been brought about in the industrial society; China doesn’t have to follow the same old way.

EFW: How would you describe the difference between your two collections, Exception and Wuyong?
Ma Ke: EXCEPTION provides everyday clothing, practical but not conventional, it’s like the fresh air. WUYONG is a way of sharing my thinking and understanding of the world, it’s soul-refinement.

EFW: Who would you like to see wearing your clothes? Do you have any style icons?
Ma Ke: Anyone who shares my values and who loves these cloths. I don’t have any style icons.

EFW: How do you see your collection evolving in the future?
Ma Ke: Let it be. I don’t make plans or figures. The value of WUYONG does not show on its own, but its benefit to society is my biggest satisfaction. There should always be some people who enjoy doing what is not profit driven.

EFW: Would you share any of your favorite sustainable tips?
Ma Ke: I admire vegetarians who practice earnestly for their self-cognition instead of some “concept”. They are sincere to themselves and others.

EFW: Is there anything else that you would like to share with us?
Ma Ke:
If you agree with me, please join in and make a difference. Words are meaningless in front of our actions.

USELESS-1.jpg

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