Tag Archives: Comme des Garçons

Sky of blue and sea of green / In our yellow submarine

nikada nisam volela ni jesen,ni zimu, a onda sam ih naprečac zavolela pre dve godine. sada kada razmislim to nije bila ljubav, nego pokušaj prihvatanja realnosti. ali, realnost mi nikada nije išla od ruke, pa je tako bilo i sa ova dva godišnja doba. ova jesen me je definitivno udaljila od mog pokušaja. jesen i zima su meninovnosti, a proleće i leto su mogućnosti. obećanje slobode, nada… pogađaš, neminovnost mi je potpuno odbojna. znam da oni koji ljube jesen i zimu imaju neki drugi rezon, neka njima dovoljno valjana opravdanja…

meni ove sive, kišne jeseni sa sve kraćim i kraćim danima treba kao vazduh, kao voda, kao šum mora, kao malickovi, sorrentinovi i wong kar waijevi  filmovi,više žute. osunčane žute, po mogućnosti…

julie eilenberger, danska dizajnerka sa adresom u londonu…

u ovo mekano, veselo i udobno dvojca portugalskog porekla, takođe sa londonskom adresom – marques almeida ( marta marques & paulo almeida, suzy menkes ih je opisala kao anti-fancy fashionbih se ušuškala sad, pa sve dok ne grane sunce, “proljeće kad stigne /23. ožujak, travanj /stolicu iznesem na verandu…

a sumorne jesenje  i zimske dane (kao i bilo koje druge) može da spasi od besmisla jedino igra. (kao što reče schiller: “čovek se igra samo kada je u punom značenju reči čovek, a u potpunosti je čovek samo onda kada se igra.”)kao npr. ova igra (i svetlost istoka): origami. kao comme des garçons. (photo by sophie delaporte)

i želelea bih ovo žuto iz anrwerpena:

dries van noten

 

Oglasi

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Filed under antwerp, art, design, east, fashion, wildsidefashion

plamenorečiti

znaš, sutra je dan rođenja vladimira majakovskog (19. jul 1893-14. аpril 1930.).  njega koji je glasno udario šamar javnom ukusu. a onda podviknuo i nebu: “ehej! nebo! skini kapu! ja dolazim!i otišao mu.

od gruzije do neba…

а u autobiografiji mlad, junoša, zapisao:

nikada nisam imao odela. imao sam dve bluze najodvratnijeg izgleda. oprobani način — doterivanje pomoću kravate. nema no­vaca. uzmem od sestre komad žute trake. zavežem je. urnebes. znači, kravata je najupadljivija i najlepša stvar kod čoveka. očevidno — što veća kravata, to veći urnebes. a pošto su razmere kravate ograni­čene, dovijam se: sašijem košulju-kravatu, odnosno kravatu-košulju.

utisak neodoljiv.

majakovski + comme des garcons men’s beauty spring 2016

išaranih lica i čudno obučenih, s rotkvicama u reverima i drvenim kašikama umesto maramice u gornjem džepu kaputa. šetali su oni “plamenorečiti“, po moskvi i petrogradu, ‘jedva lavirajući između istine, lepote i policije’(majakovski), raznosili svoju veru u poeziju i avijaciju po uspavanim ruskim prostorima.prožeti gađanjem prema postojećem, svoj protest su utopili u egzaltirano prihvatanje revolucije.” (nana bogdanović: futurizam marinetija i majakovskog, prosveta, beograd, 1963)

 

андрей шемшурин, давид бурлюк, владимир маяковский. 1914, москва. © государственный музей в.в. маяковского, москва

išarana lica… yohji yamamoto ss 2016

 

plitka filozofija na dubokim mestima

majakovski

postaću ne tolstoj,
no nešto mnogo gore,
jedem,
pišem,
i ludim od toplog svoda.
ko još nije filozofirao nad morem?
voda.
ko vrag ljut beše
okean prošlo veče,
danas –
golubica na jajima,
pun smirenja.
kolika razlika!
sve teče…
sve se menja.
a ima voda svoje vreme:
plima, oseka,
jedno po jedno.
samo kod stjeklova
voda ne izlazi iz teme.
i to nepravedno.
crknuta riba usamljena sred vode.
ko slomljena krilca –
peraja trag.
i pliva tako, i ode vragu.
u susret trom, fokinog tela,
brod iz meksika,
a mi – tamo sada.
drukčije i ne može.
podela rada.
kažu – kit.
može biti.
vrsta ribljeg bednog –
trostrukog obima.
samo kod demjana brci su spolja,
a kit ih unutra ima.
godine – galebi.
poređaju se i u more se zariju
kljukajući se ribom nemilice.
pa se sakriju.
u samoj stvari, gde su te ptice?
ja sam se rodio, sisao isprva
živeo, radio, i starost ce doći…
evo, i život kao azorska ostrva
će proći.

 

 владимир маяковский & алекса́ндр миха́йлович ро́дченко

srećan ti rođendan, majakovski!!!

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not building a wall but making a brick or mount mogan fashion week

obavezno neka (bilo koja) murakamijeva knjiga. i pitanje. da mi odgovori. onako uzgred. o čemu razmišlja dok trči po danu nalik ovom vetrovitom? i peljevin! kog vraga radi u budističkom manastiru dok pada kiša?da li bi došao kada bih ga pozvala na ovu nedelju mode?

//

necessarily a book (any) by murakami. and  a question. to be answered. casually, by the way. what is he thinking about while running on a windy day, like the one today? and pelevin! what the hell is he doing in a buddhist monastery while it’s raining? would he come had i invited him to the forthcoming fashion week?

i lao ce. preko planine mogan (200 km od šangaja) 4d mapiranje njegovih mudrosti. da se vide iz aviona. i odande. sa onog sveta.

glava mi je kao košnica ovih dana.  kakofonija. a lepo me brian eno upućuje: “ne zidanje zida, već izrada cigle“/ “zaobilazne strategije”. preko preče, naokolo bliže. zato zaobilazne strategije. da bi se stiglo.

zamišljam nedelju modu tamo daleko, u brdama i gorama, po vetru i kiši, daleko od instant-poznatih, bliceva, selfija, neophodnih, suvišnih… u miru. i skladu. da u prvom redu sede lame, čuvari kozjeg stada, proizvođači kašmira i berači čaja, posvećeni i zaljubljeni u lepo i dobro.  zephy lou & kian zhang iz old lyric / autumn sonata su glavni selektori te nedelje mode. jedini dozvoljeni video zapis bi smeo da radi abbas kiarostami. i barem dva dana morala bi (zbog scenografije i svežine posle) da pada kiša. tamo na dalekom istoku, na planini mogan… scenografiju bi radio shengxuan zhu.

kod njega bismo i odseli. i bili bismo pažljivi gosti… hodali bismo kao gejše, jedva čujno. i svi bismo se neusiljeno osmehivali.

//

and lao tze. 4d mapping of his wisdoms over the mogan mountain (200 km from shanghai). to be seen from the plane. and from over there. from the other world.

my had is like a bee hive these days. cacophony. and brian eno has been guiding me : ‘not building a wall, but making a brick’/the oblique strategies.

i’m imagining a fashion week far away, in the mountains and valleys, in the wind and rain, far away from instant – celebrities, camera flashes, selfies, the unnecessary, over the top… in peace. and harmony.  lamas, goat shepherds, tea pickers sitting in the first row, in love with beauty and goodness. zephy lou & kian zhang from old lyric/ autumn sonata are the main selectors of that fashion week.  the only videa allowed  would have to be made by abbas kiarostami. and there would have to rain for at least two days (for the scenery and the freshness in the aftermath). there, in the far east, on the mogan mountain… scenography would be made by shengxuan zhu.

we would have stayed in his place too. and we would have been careful guests… we would have been walking as geisha’s, soundlessly. and we would have smiled casually.

mogan mount, , zhejiang province, china

http://www.kreuzzz.com

reviju šešira i kapa ateljea kreuzzzz bismo videli na otvaranju. započela bi napolju, a onda bi, uz pomoć onih koji imaju moć, pljusnula kiša. i abbas kiarostami bi uradio sjajan posao… on zna:

in the total darkness, poetry is still there, and it is there for you…  abbas kiarostami
//

the opening runway show would have been that of hat atelier kreuzzz. it would have begun outside, and then, with the help of those who have the power, the rain would start pouring…. and abbas kiarostami would have done a great job…he knows: in the total darkness, poetry is still there, and it is there for you… abbas kiarostami

Abbas Kiarostami: ABBAS KIAROSTAMI RAIN (23) 2007

abbas kiarostami, rain, 2007

muzikу posle vetra i kiše dobijaju oni: david sylvian, brian enoryuichi sakamoto.

prostor i vreme između kreuzzz-a i kraja prepuštam, sa puno poverenja, zephy i kian, ali na kraju moraju biti junya watanabe, comme des garçons i yohji yamamoto. 

//

the music after the rain and wind i leave to them: david sylvian, brian eno and ryuchi sakamoto.

time and space between the kreuzzz and the end i leave, with much confidence to zephy and kian, but in the end there has to be junyaa watanabe, comme des garçons and yohji yamamoto.

Junya Watanabe, Comme des Garcons and Yohji Yamamoto

junya watanabe, comme des garçons & yohji yamamoto. 

 

dame i gospodo, drugovi i drugarice, koze, ovse, psi, berači čaji, viktore peljevinu and co. bio bi to mount mogan fashion week.

//

ladies and gentleman, comrades, goats, sheep, dogs, tea pickers, victor pelevin and co. it would have been mount mogan fashion week.

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Спаси и сохрани and Armour of Peace

«спаси и сохрани» piše na majicama intrigantnog ruskog  dizajnera i umetnika koji se zove гоша рубчинский. njegovi modeli sa ćiriličnim natpisima prikazani su pre neki dan na paris fashion weeku. moram da priznam da do prošle sedmice nisam ni znala da on postoji. prvi put sam videla njegovo ime na instagram profilu sjajnog čoveka kome već duže vremena nameravam da posvetim barem jedan post i imam veliku tremu od toga. adrian joffe je taj čovek. imam čast da i on prati moj instagram profil. ali, da se vratim na priču o goši. adrian mu je posvetio čak tri fotografije. kada sam otišla na gošin instagram u prvom mahu bila sam u čudu. pitala sam se kakve veze joffe ima sa time?! na brzinu sam konsultovala google, bila sam u nekoj vremenskoj stisci… i dalje mi ništa nije bilo jasno. tako odevenih mladića bilo je u srbiji devedesetih ohoho: upasane majice u trenerke, pantalone, prevelike jakne… kada su se adrian joffe i njegova životna i poslovna partnerka rei kawakubo pojavili na gošinoj reviji znala sam da moram pronaći vremena za mladog rusa. rei i adrian ne poklanjaju svoju pažnju i poverenje tek tako. komentari na gošinom instagramu (za sada tamo stoje tek dve fotografije, a broj radoznalaca poput mene se povećava iz sata u sat) sve brojniji takođe. ljude najviše zanima šta znači: «спаси и сохрани». odgovaraju im: “save and survive”. omg, goša, baš si izazvao pometnju, mi ćirilični i pravoslavni smo nekakva teška egzotika i nepoznanica u ovom ludom svetu. da, pomoć gospoda nam treba svima. luđe je nego devedesetih. tada smo barem imali nadu. a šta sada imamo?

na jednom drugom mestu danas sam napisala da nam treba pank, a onda posle panka zen. jedan posto ljudi kontroliše nas preostalih 99%. religiozan čovek uzda se u boga i spasenje. a ko nije religiozan u šta da se uzda? ja sam uvek verovala u ono što je jedan drugi rus rekao, da će lepota spasiti ovaj svet. počinjem da sumnjam da lepota neće biti dovoljna. da će trebati malo i našeg besa. i revolta. i ulice. i ponovnog čitanja majakovskog. i gledanja rodčenkovih radova. mogli biste do 28. februara još stići u beograd na izložbu “ruske avangarde”. i podsećanje na svaku drugu avangardu. ona, kao ni proleteri (što marx reče) nema domovinu. ovo je sukob nas 99% protiv onog jednog procenta. i ta borba biće teža nego svaka prethodna, jer je taj 1% snažan dinosaurus, a mi smo mravi. no, možda neki meteor prođe opet…

ovo je goša, kažu prijatelj svih moskovskih skejtera, rođen je 1984, ne ide za trendovima, svoj je. btw on nije u potpunosti novo ime na modnoj sceni, već duže vremena njegovi modeli imaju svoje zapaženo mesto u dover street marketima. zanima me šta sledi nakon ove njegove priče o devedesetima, o godinama kada je odrastao i nesumnjivo ih je i romantizovao. obično romantizujemo svoje odrastanje…

«спаси и сохрани» is written on shirts of an intriguing russian designer and artist called гоша рубчинский. his models with cyrillic inscriptions were shown a few days ago at the paris fashion week. i have to admit that until the last week i wasn’t aware of him. i saw his name for the first time on an instagram profile of a great guy i have been intending to devote at least one post to, and i’m quite jittery about doing that. that man is adrian joffe.  he has honored me by following my instagram. but let’s go back to gosha. adrian has devoted as much as three photographs to him. when i saw gosha’s  instragram i was amazed at first. i wondered what does adrian has to do with him? i was in a rush, so i hastily consulted google… still nothing was clear to me.  there were a lot of young men in serbia in the 1990’s dressed like that: shirts tucked in track suits, trousers, oversized jackets… when adrian joffe and his life and business partner rei kawabuko appeared on gosha’s show, i knew i had to find some time for the young russian. rei and adrian don’t give their attention and trust to someone so easily. the number of comments on gosha’s instagram (there are only two photos for now, while the number of those curious like me is rising by the hour) is growing as well. people are mostly interested in what does «спаси и сохрани» mean? the answer is ‘save and survive’. omg  gosha, you have really caused a confusion, we who use cyrilic and are orthodox are a kind of exotic  and unknown in this mad world. yes, we all need lord’s help. it’s crazier than during the 1990’. at least we had hope back then. what do we have now?

i wrote elsewhere today that punk is what we need, and after punk, zen. one percent of people controls the other 99%. a religious man puts his hope in god and salvation. what should those not religious put their hope into?  i have always believed in what another russian said – that the beauty shall save this world. i’m starting to doubt beauty will be enough. some of our rage (anger) will be needed too. and revolt. and the streets. and reading mayakovsky again. and seeing works by rodchenko. you could visit ‘russian avant-garde’ exhibition in belgrade by february 28th. and to be reminded of any other avant-garde.  it, similarly as the proletariat (as marx said), doesn’t have a homeland. the us 99% versus the one percent. that struggle will be as hard as those before, because the 1% is a strong dinosaur, and we are ants. perhaps a meteor will pass by again…

this guy gosha, a friend of all moscow skaters, they say, was born in 1984, he doesn’t follow trends, he is  his own. he isn’t a new name in fashion either, his models have had a distinctive place in dover street market  for some time now. i’m interested what follows after his story about the 1990’s, the years he grew up in and has indubitably romanticized. growing up usually tends to be romanticized…  

gosha rubchinskiy

pfw aw2016, photo: yannis vlamos / indigitalimages.com

rei on gosha’s show via @lily.templeton

a rei i njena kuća comme des garçons mladići sa buketima cveća na glavama i u naručju, u vreme kada ništa nije ružičasto. ali, možda je vreme da muškarci, konačno, otkriju svoju žensku stranu ličnosti… comme des garcons = comme des filles? njihovi sakoi izgledaju kao oklopi, šareni, ali oklopi. kao vitezi nekada. ili samuraji. oklopi potrebni da se današnji čovek brani u borbi sa spoljašnjim svetom. oružje? cveće? u svakom slučaju, to nije bitka sa vetrenjačama… neprijatelj je stvaran. ali, rei kaže da je to “armour of peace.” flower-power. lepota koja će spasiti svet. lepota koja dolazi iz prirode. ono izvan čoveka…

and rei and her fashion house comme des garcons…boys with flower bouquets on their heads and in their arms, in times when nothing is pink. but, maybe it’s time for men to finally uncover their feminine sides… comme des garcons = comme des filles? their jackets look like armors, colorful ones, but still armors. as knights used to wear. or samurai. as armors present-day people need for defense against the outer world. weapons? flowers? anyhow, that fight is not lead against the windmills… the enemy is real. but rei sais it’s an ‘armor of peace’. flower-power. beauty shall save the world. beauty that comes from the nature. the one that comes from beyond the humans…

photo by mitchell sams

Comme des Garçons Homme Plus AW16

photo by virginie khateeb

i konačno on: yohji yamamoto!!! opet mlađi od svih. i opet dosta dodirnih tačaka sa onom koja mu je nekada bila i poslovni i životni drug. sa onom koja je ostala mlada (duhom, samo se to i računa)  kao i on. čak je na jednom modelu izvezen lik koji podseća na nju. on garderobu oduvek doživljava kao štit od spoljnog sveta. i svoj duh. i ne mogu tu ništa ni gladne korporacije.

a ponela bih sve iz njegove muške kolekcije!

ovo su poruke njegove kolekcije, pa čitajte:

and finally him: yohji yamamoto!!! again, younger than all the others. and again a lot of touching points  to the one who used to be his business and life partner. to the one who remained young (in spirit, that is all that counts,) as did he.  there is even a knitted figure on one of the models that resembles her. he always thinks of clothes as a shield against the outer world. and his spirit. no hungry corporation could do anything about that.

i would wear anything from his men’s collection!

these are the messages of his collection, here you go, read them:

Yohji Yamamoto AW16

photos chloé le drezen

Yohji Yamamoto AW16

da li je ovo rei?

Yohji Yamamoto AW16

Yohji Yamamoto AW16

Yohji Yamamoto AW16

a ovako je izgledala pozivnica:

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majakovski i rei

kada je rei kawakubo snimala 1989. za svoj kultni six magazine u gruziji da li je znala da je vladimir majakovski rođen tamo, u mestu bagdadi? pošto je diplomirala lepe umetnosti i književnost za pretpostaviti je da je znala. a majakovski… nije da nije mario za modu.  i za pariz…

a oboje su marili samo za korake ispred. futuristi! prvo dekonstrukcija. a posle nje rekonstrukcija! revolucija! kao dečaci… kao oblak u pantalonama…

kako je došla na ideju da snima editorijal u gruziji u tom burnom i odsudnom momentu njihove istorije, kada su brojali poslednje trenutke u sssr-u? uoči nezavisnosti… kada su sovjetske trupe ušle da zavedu red…

i šta li su ti ljudi u okolini tbilisija mislili kada im je usred tog ludila stigla modna japansko-francuska ekipa? da li su bili željni svake pažnje iz njima dalekog i stranog sveta ili su bili zbunjeni kao deca… začuđeni, šokirani, kako neko mari za modu, a okolo je haos i život je težak. jer, ti ljudi ne izgledaju kao oni kojima je život pesma… danas sam videla spot jedne pevačice snimljen sa izbeglicama u pokretu… može svašta da se kaže. misli… u rei verujem. kao što kreira beskompromisno verujem da je iznad politike i manipulacije. da su razlozi bili etičko-estetski. i puni pitanja. почему? i želim da mislim da ih nije zaboravila. i da nije olako donosila zaključke o celoj toj sovjetsko-gruzijskoj priči ni tada, ni sada. eto, ja želim da verujem da je meni  neznanac  koga toliko volim i poštujem bezgrešno biće.

🙂 oh, da, to je tako lako.

svi modeli su meštani, a ne profesionalni manekeni! i nose i svoju garderobu, ne samo comme des garçons… 

i rei i majakovski u duši bez ijedne sede vlasi. eto, i to im je zajedničko.

bagdadi (gruzijski: ბაღდათი), gruzija, njegovo rodno mesto…

Vuc8_big

влади́мир маяко́вский ( 1893–1930)

ja volim sve njegove pesme. strasne. snažne. duboke. britke. jake. surove. i velike kao njegove oči. i/ili usne.  strong and beautiful!

volela bih da rei čita ovu pesmu. jednom, dvaput, stoput. japanski, francuski, kojigod hoće prevod.

i da gleda ove oči gore.

pitka filozofija na dubokim mestima

postacu ne tolstoj,
no nešto mnogo gore,
jedem,
pišem,
i ludim od toplog svoda.
ko još nije filozofirao nad morem?
voda.
ko vrag ljut beše
okean prošlo veče,
danas –
golubica na jajima,
pun smirenja.
kolika razlika!
sve teče
sve se menja.
a ima voda svoje vreme:
plima, oseka,
jedno po jedno.
samo kod stjeklova
voda ne izlazi iz teme.
i to nepravedno.
crknuta riba usamljena sred vode.
ko slomljena krilca –
peraja trag.
i pliva tako, i ode vragu.
u susret trom, fokinog tela,
brod iz meksika,
a mi – tamo sada.
drukčije i ne može.
podela rada.
kažu – kit.
može biti.
vrsta ribljeg bjednog –
trostrukog obima.
samo kod demjana brci su spolja,
a kit ih unutra ima.
godine – galebi.
poređaju se i u more se zariju
kljukajući se ribom nemilice.
pa se sakriju.
u samoj stvari, gde su te ptice?
ja sam se rodio, sisao isprva
živeo, radio, i starost ce doći
evo, i život kao azorska ostrva
će proći.

vladimir majakovski

Маяковский

 comme des garcons, photographer: brian griffin. stylist: rei kawakubo. location: soviet georgia in winter 1989

killheji: Comme des Garçons fashion shoot in Tblisi, Georgia, 1989

rei kawakubo, soviet georgia, 1989, photos: bruan griffin

‘for the voice’ by vladimir mayakovsky – el lissitzky

mayakovsky

six magazine

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deyan sudjic – f is for fashion

u danima kada mi tako snažno nedostaje poezija, koja kao da je proterana sa ovih prostora, na blagoslovenom i prokletom prostoru interneta otkrih rad ovog fenomenalnog čoveka. deyan sudjic mu je ime. i stid me je što ga tek sada otkrih. kada živim na kraju svih svetova…

deyan sudjic je, po korenima, naše gore list. arhitekta po obrazovanju i uticajni teoretičar po zvanju. osnivač čuvenog magazina blueprint,  direktor venecijanskog bijenala arhitekture 2002, dugogodišnji kritičar the observera, autor mnogih značajnih knjiga o arhitekturi i ne samo o arhitekturi, (na žalost, nisu prevedene na srpski, koliko ja znam… naša čuvena ignorancija i kaskanje…) direktor je muzeja dizajna u londonu… i ono što je u granicama ovog bloga koji se, pre svega, bavi modom: dakle, deyan sudjic se bavi i promišljanjem mode.  autor je čuvene knjige o rei kawakubo i comme des garçons , koju je rizzoli objavio 1990. i o paulu smithu 2013: hello, my name is paul smith: fashion and other stories.

deyan sudjic

among the huge amount of printed matter, is an edifying monograph of comme des garçons by deyan sudjic. sudjic provides what has been described as “the most comprehensive review of the fashion house to date”, through decoding kawakubo’s design principals in an honest and straight-forward way, while attempting to illustrate her ability to bridge fine art, fashion and commerce. (husk magazine)

limited edition, rizzoli, 1990

 

fashion has been of interest to you, too. you were recently involved in the rizzoli book hello, my name is paul smith, and in 1990 you published rei kawakubo and comme des garçons.

yes, actually, in my extreme youth, paul smith called up one day and said, “you must come see tokyo.” we got on a plane and went. he took me around the city and showed me the shrines and shops. then one evening we had dinner with rei kawakubo. paul managed to ambush her with a rubber chicken. she actually laughed. i spent six months following her around as she made a collection. we went to gifu, where they make textiles. i later ended up with her at one of her paris collection shows, where she had john malkovich and julian sands among the models. it was quite an impressive evening.

(surface magazine)

cityvillain: Rei Kawakubo by Deyan Sudjic:

rei, photography by deyan sudjic

 

ovo je svijet koji konzumira svoj izlaz iz depresije, a luksuz, moda i umjetnost highlighti su modernog dizajna, dok je moda najrazvijenija forma manipulacije u kojoj su njezini konzumenti voljni platiti za nepostojanost, kaže sudjic ujedno i autor monografije o najvećoj umjetnici u modi rei kawakubo, osnivačici comme des garcones: – arhitekti možda ne misle da je moda bitna, no to je jedna od najvećih industrija i jako je važna. nisam prvi kritičar kojeg zanima moda. i velikog adolfa loosa je zanimala. pronašao sam i njegov tekst o tome zašto nijemci nose prebijele hlače. (deyan sudjic u intervjuu za jutarnji list)

book

“by the time she graduated,” writes deyan sudjic in his 1990 monograph on comme des garçons, “the country had decisively emerged from the ranks of the developing world. the ferment of those years provided unique opportunities for the members of a generation that was ready to make the most of them. they enjoyed the fruits of an economic success story which enabled japan to look at the outside world in more objective terms, to make its own creative contribution and, in the process, to assert its own identity as a mature, modern state.” (dazed digital)

“the initial absence of colour in kawakubo’s clothes helped to trigger a new bout of the preoccupation with black that has been a recurrent theme at the margins of fashion from the 1940s and earlier,” writes deyan sudjic in his 1990 monograph, rei kawakubo and comme des garcons. “though black has enjoyed a continuing vogue since its adoption by the grandees of the spanish royal court in the late 16th century, in modern times, and for women in particular, it has been a sign of a bohemian rejection of more traditional ideas about fashion.” (independent)

deyan sudjic

rizzoli, 2013, www.paulsmith.co.uk

“what we try and show is both the creativity of fashion and also how it’s done. i think paul smith is an unusual fashion designer in that he’s not afraid to show what’s under the magic.” (deyan sudjic)

deyan sudjic & paul smith, photo by thim whitby

the london magazine

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dramatic and poetic hats

umislila sam da nemam odgovarajuči oblik glave za šešire,a umisliti ovako nešto nije baš dobra rekreacija. o, da, volela bih da ih nosim. treba se samo usuditi. i nositi ono što želiš i kako želiš, sa stavom i ubeđenjem da je to dobro. najbolje. makar ispao mad hatter…  samopozdano i stylish kao tasya van ree što ih nosi… kakogod, ja volim ideju šešira na glavama. muškim i ženskim. šešire klasične i šešire ekscentrične. danas su tema ovi potonji – eksentrični. kao što giles deacon reče; dramatični i romantični.i poetični, dodajem! u “alisi” ludi šeširdžija kaže ovo:

giles deacon o stephenu jonesu, 2009, izložba: hats: an anthology by stephen jonesvictoria and albert museum

elem, o stephenu jonesu (1957) bih koju reč da kažem. on je eksentrični & avangardni kreator onoga što ukrašava glavu. od kako je elsa schipaparelli 1937. u saradnji sa salvadorom dalijem kreirala cipelu-šešir stephen jones je jedan od najboljih njenih sledbenika. osim za revije deacona stvarao je šešire za gaultiera, vivienne westwood,diora, galliana, rei kawakubo, marc jacobsa… mnoge, mnoge poznate ličnosti, muzičari, glumci… nosile su i nose njegove ludo dobre i nezaboravne kreacije.

helena bonham carter nosi jonesov labud-šešir

stephen jones (o5) za gilesa deacona

stephen jones milliners | Stephen Jones:

comme [des garçons] is fantastic and i love rei. she is someone that everyone simply looks towards. her and Vivienne are incredible because they’ve somehow done their own thing and carried on doing it, producing the most extraordinary things that make us dream. i believe that’s the purpose of fashion – if not we should all run around wearing gap t-shirts, which are fine, but, you know… i need my visual input to be a bit stronger than that. (stephen jones for dazed)

Comme des Garçons Homme Plus - Autumn/Winter 2007-2008  (c) POPEYE August, 2007.  Photography: Rrosemary  Styling: Keisube Baba Hair & Make-up: To

comme des garçons, aw2008 , photography: rrosemary

wash and go by stephen jones

motwary: in your opinion, what makes a great hat?

jones: god knows! for me, I think it has to have an element of fantasy to it, or the person who wears it must feel some kind of fantasy. it doesn’t matter whether it is a big thing you do for a fashion show or whether it’s a baseball cap. it has to turn you into somebody. it applies whether you are young or old, a man or a woman—it’s got to have some magic to it.

motwary: is there is a methodology or philosophical frame- work within which you work?

jones: yeah—what’s a good hat? my philosophy is that whatever i do is about trying to make fantasy come true.

(stephen jones for the kinsky)

Stephen Jones Millinery for Christian Dior fall 2009 haute couture in Paris:

za diora 2009

http://www.stephenjonesmillinery.com

hat or fascinator?

hat, definitely today. i think it’s the fashion for a bigger hat, something more substantial. a fascinator is fine for a dress, maybe for the evening, and now is almost like a head decoration but i think what I’ve seen around is everyone wearing hats. (stephen jones za vogue)

stephen jones i naša đurđa stojiljković za galliana

stephen jones:hats are totally about escapism. of course, they can keep you warm, or keep you dry, or keep the sun off your face, but they’re predominantly about escaping, about being somebody else.”

John Galliano - Autumn/Winter 2004-2005  (c) Photography: Etienne Tordoir/ Catwalkpictures.com

galliano, a/w 2005, photography: etienne tordoir

knjiga o njemu, fotografija na omotu nick knight

stephen-jones-hats

za vivienne westwood

stephen jones for a. f. vandervorst a/w 2015

thom browne and stephen jones, ss 2016

Breathtaking: 'It was supposed to be romantic but also dramatic,' Deacon said after the show

giles deacon and stephen jones ss 2013

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red hair and october

3. oktobra 1943. rođen je on, a 11. oktobra 1942. ona. mesto rođenja tokyo. on je yohji yamamoto, a ona je rei kawakubo. nekada su stvarali zajedno… zajedno ostavili pariz bez daha. kao i ovog (njihovog) oktobra… slučajnost je da su oboje kose svojih modela zamislili crveno. i ispričali, svako na svoj način, sasvim odvojeno, priču lišenu svake banalnosti. o istoku i zapadu, o ženama i moći, o vešticama. o nerazumevanju i koliko razumevanje drugih nije ni važno… o magiji i pticama… budi se istok i zapad. oktobar je crven i ovog puta. revolucije najčešće iznevere, rei i yohji nikada. be sure.

2th october 2015, 20:30h, hotel de ville, paris

yohji yamamoto S/S 2016 backstage, photographs by elise toide, hair styling by eugene souleiman

yohji yamamoto S/S 2016 backstage, photographs by elise toide, hair styling by eugene souleiman

yohji yamamoto ss 2016, vogue 

red isn’t a colour, it’s a light. (yohji yamamoto)

october 3, 2015, 5:00 pm, paris, le centorial

he is very inspiring and we decided that we were twin brothers. and the fact that he was born in japan and me in germany, doesn’t interfere with much. we made a film together twenty years ago. and during that year we saw each other nearly all the time and it’s from there that our friendship dates back from. he is serious, a real worker and he works in the narrative. he’s a psychologist, he’s someone who knows art history, who knows lots of photography and painting…and with all of this knowledge, he fabricates something in his clothes which makes us feel good inside! he taught me that dressing up, becomes part of our identity, and that it helps us, and comforts us and sometimes it drives us a little. It’s always a peak into the future and i find it really interesting to see clothes that you might see out on the street in a year’s time.  (wim wenders o svom prijatelju yamamotu)

julien8

courtesy of julien d’Ys / hair stayling

#SuzyPFW: Comme des Garçons - Witch Hunt

#SuzyPFW: Comme des Garçons - Witch Hunt

_CDG0517 (1)

Comme Des Garçons SS16

photography virginie khateeb

blue witches, comme des garçons

witches. these are strong women that are often misunderstood by the world.” (adrian joffe / dazed )

“i was thinking about witches. witches in the original sense of the word, in the sense of a woman having power. the original witches were benevolent but because people didn’t understand them they bullied them. we’re left with a bad image of them.”   (rei kawakubo, dazed)

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Filed under art, fashion, paris, passion, tokyo

melankoli

u novembru (pravo doba za melanholiju?) 2012. godine turski vogue je objavio sjajan editorial “melankoli“… angažovani fotograf je bila šveđanka lina scheynius, stilista sebastian kaufmann, a model rubi aldridge. sebastian je znalački odabrao: comme des garçons, rick owens, marni, alexander mcqueen … lina scheynius je unela to nešto skandinavsko melanholično, ono što je lars von trier elaborirao u filmu sa istim nazivom.

she dwells with beauty – beauty that must die;
and joy, whose hand is ever at his lips
bidding adieu; and aching pleasure nigh,
turning to poison while the bee-mouth sips:
ay, in the very temple of delight
veil’d melancholy has her sovran shrine,
though seen of none save him whose strenuous tongue
can burst joy’s grape against his palate fine;
his soul shall taste the sadness of her might,
and be among her cloudy trophies hung.  (john keats, ode on melancholy)

Art Department Lina Scheynius for Vogue Turkey

the history of melancholia
includes all of us.
me, i writhe in dirty sheets
while staring at blue walls
and nothing.
i have gotten so used to melancholia
that
i greet it like an old
friend.
i will now do 15 minutes of grieving
for the lost redhead,
i tell the gods.
i do it and feel quite bad
quite sad,
then i rise
CLEANSED
even though nothing
is solved.
that’s what i get for kicking
religion in the ass.
i should have kicked the redhead
in the ass
where her brains and her bread and
butter are
at …
but, no, i’ve felt sad
about everything:
the lost redhead was just another
smash in a lifelong
loss …
i listen to drums on the radio now
and grin.
there is something wrong with me
besides
melancholia. (charles bukowski, melancholia)

“melancholy is the happiness of being sad.” (victor hugo)

melancholia

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pfw ss15

dok je trajao ovogodišnji pfw s/s 15 bila sam na sredozemnom moru sa afričke strane. krajičkom oka sam pratila ono što se dešavalo. michele lamy je, naravno, u pravu:

oni od kojih sam najviše očekivala i potvrdili su očekivanja (yamamoto, rick owens, rei kawakubo, ann demeulemeester, issey miyake, hussein chalayan, vivienne westwood…). stara avangarda, dakle još mora da živi, a po prirodi stvari ne sme da postane mainstream i trebalo bi da umire mlada… eh… najviše na sebi rade najduže prisutni… pomiču granicu svoje, naše, vaše… a ostali i vrli novi svet idu na tzv. sigurno. yamamoto se u 71. godini uhvatio u koštac sa sopstvenim tabuima i rešio da istraži šta to eksplicitnije imaju žensko telo i tkanina… ko je do sada vukao napred i sada to čini. od koga to do sada nismo dobili, nećemo ni od sada. stvari su tako dosadno predvedive. pogledaj ono što nikako nije dosadno:

rick owens

Comme des Garçons SS15

yohji yamamoto

georgia-pendlebury-michael-dumler-pfw-ss15

georgia pendlebury photo by michael dumler, pfw ss15, obrati pažnju na poruku!

u prvim redovima sedeli su i bivali najviše fotografisani kardashians & west. uobičajeno dosadni, nemaštoviti, kičasti i oličenje vulgarizacije novca. “car je go!” niko ni da šapne…

ubedljivo najzanimljivija osoba na ovom fw bila je lily gatins 30. septembra je na svom fb profilu napisala: “fashion is f***** dead!! paris is officially commercial. london, germany, copenhagen , korea , japan and china. i hope u you are ready.”

njeni pratioci komentarisali su da tako nije samo u modi, sve je prekomercijalizovano, ustajalo, sad & boring…

pogledaj kako je izgledala žena koja je neprikosnoveno dominirala na pfw ss15. to je osoba sa stilom i stavom, ne kardashians žene. lily gatins:

photo by daniel bruno grandl

photos by victor kruit

Photo: Repost @lereport Lily Gatins wearing Micol Ragni for Comme Des Garcons show. ♠️Photo by @mikerzepecki #micolragni #cymatics #pfw #cdg #commedesgarcons #wow

photo by @mikerzepecki

photos yana mironova

photo amina attar

lily je zaboravila švedsku u onom nabrajanju gore. a evo šta su šveđani ponudili na pfw:

photo johan sandberg 

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