haider ackermann – you live your life as if it’s real

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photo: haider ackermann in new york, november 2010

http://haiderackermann.be

po meni, haider ackermann je dizajner koji je sebe najbolje stilizovao. romantičarski, avangardno, stylish, nonšalantno, perfekcionistički, nomadski, mistično, poetski, divlje, smireno, dekadentno,dečački, muževno, aristokratski i klošarski… da sam muškarac volela bih tako da izgledam. zapravo i ja kao žena volela bih da nosim stvari koje on lično nosi. udobno, nabrano, sofisticirano, nemarno… sa utiskom spremnosti i za gradsku vrevu i za oluju u pustinji. za ostanak i za beg. sa osećajem slobode… razigrano…

i wanted to give women the luxury of just letting things go, of just being free.” (haider)

rođen je 1971. u kolumbiji i već kao devetomesečna beba usvojen je od strane francuske porodice kartografa i humanitaraca koji su pre njega već usvojili jednu devojčicu iz vijetnama i dečaka iz koreje. živeli su na raznim mestima, u etiopiji, čadu, alžiru, francuskoj, holandiji… zamišljam koliko to mora da je bio šaren i uzbudljiv život… nije ni čudo što je takav kakav je… nadasve egzotičan!  svoj!

u antverpenu je upisao modni dizajn na prestižnoj kraljevskoj akademiji lepih umetnosti… nije završio studije, ali se 2001. uspešno predstavio na pfw.

“my private life is not that interesting. i just want to communicate with my défilé. i like reading though i barely have time for it. let me have a cosy dinner with my friends, leave me alone. let me dream. the day when i can’t dream anymore, that’ll be the day when everything falls apart.”(haider za joyce.com)

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i spent my childhood in africa and i didn’t know that you could make a living out of fashion until i was about 12. in algeria where i lived the islamic women wear a black shawl called a chador which was very mysterious to me and ultimately gave me inspiration. i would watch the women go by trying to imagine what they looked like beneath the shawl. the desire to understand what is beneath the clothing is the origin for my fashions and the reason why i became part of this world. unfortunately, no matter how much time goes by i still don’t come closer to understanding. (laugh). (haider ackermann)

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haider ackermann photo mauro gonzalez

you can only design what you know.” (haider)

i’m looking for a luxury that’s a bit négligé, that can be rich but doesn’t look rich. i would love for my clothes to be timeless, for people to build a sense of intimacy with them over time. i’ve tried over the years to tell a story, with each collection a different chapter. and you hope the reader will follow you and see where the novel’s going.(4 w magazine)

for me at the moment, a woman’s manly side is what’s sexy. and i’m not talking about androgyny. i think that a woman standing strongly, fighting to be desired, is very sexual.(w magazine)

Haider Ackermann en 2003

photo giovanni giannoni

when men are being admired, when all those men are immaculate and perfectly dressed, it makes me want to be one of them. i would like to be proper dressed and i would like to be exact and sharp in my appearance. but i am not one of those men. when i dress, i want to put the garment on and everything is here with me. it’s basically a part of who i am. i’m not an anxious person. i have to feel at ease to feel comfortable. (—)  when you see the violence that is going on in the world, especially nowadays when you see what is happening in tunisia and elsewhere, i think there is also a big urge for certain beauty. it puts our lives in balance. because otherwise, where would we be? it’s a gift nowadays, to escape with beauty.(haider, interview with eugene rabkin, style zeitgeist)

photo by roberto frankenberg

 what’s had the greatest influence on your career?
h.a. the erect posture of an ethiopian woman whose legs were so long she reached the sun. (no rules)

photo by jerome bonnet

obrati pažnju i na soundtrack!

and sometimes when the night is slow,
the wretched and the meek,
we gather up our hearts and go,
 a thousand kisses deep.

(leonard cohen)

Isssue Haider Ackermann - Cover

naslovna časopisa a magazin koji je haider ackermann uredio, koji je otkrio njegovu melanholičnu stranu

Oglasi

hussein chalayan

hussein chalayan (kipar, 1970) kao što su se turska, kipar, mediteran i engleska izmešali  u njegovom životu tako je u njegovom stvaranju više nego očita fuzija mode, tehnologije, istorije, filozofije, poezije, politike, arhitekture, muzike…  interdisciplinaran, konceptualan, misleći, narativan, revolucionaran, kritičan, onaj koji eksperimentiše, igra se, istražuje, pomera napred… kao dete hteo je da bude frizer, pa pilot, glumac, arhitekta, pa tek onda modni dizajner. očito je dizajn odeće samo sredstvo putem kojeg priča priču o svom doživljaju sveta. 2005. predstavljao tursku na venecijanskom bijenalu sa filmom absent presence u kom se pojaljuje tilda swinton. voleo bi da radi za kate bush. dva puta je bio dizajner godine u velikoj britaniji.

bjork u njegovoj kreaciji, photo by  inez & vinoodh

before minus now  – Été 2000 collection, haljine od materijala od kojih se prave avioni. a pravio je on haljine koje se razbijaju, od šećernog stakla, haljine koje se pod uticajem led tehnologije menjaju, haljine koje se pod uticajem dostignuća informacione tehnologije pomeraju… sto koji se pretvara po potrebi u haljinu, a potreba je izazvana, nametnuta ratom…  kao zonu najveće pretnje ocenjuje politiku i od te priče kroji i haljine i stav.

HUSEYIN ÇAĞLAYAN (na turskom, u originalu)

panoramic collection, fall/winter 1998

afterwords

 

u intervjuu za hint magazine rekao je:

…you have always had such a passion for technology, art, architecture, film and anthropology, any of which you could have excelled in, yet you chose fashion. why?

i think i wouldn’t have succeeded at all! the point of interest for me is that i chose fashion and my kind of approach to fashion doesn’t often exist. that was my aim always. it’s the fact that i was creating these ideas around clothes. had i done films, i would have just done films. there wouldn’t have been any merging of worlds.

but why clothes?

i was surrounded by women when my parents split up. i was pretty young. they were very strong women, but also quite vulnerable. i have always been interested in the empowerment of women. and i’m obsessed with the body. whatever we create as humans—buildings, vehicles, systems— they’re all amplification of the body. i always wanted to celebrate it and include it in everything i do. my parents pushed me to be an architect, but I thought no, it has to be about the body, so i decided to study fashion.

 

preporučujem da pročitaš ovaj esej o njemu.

 

 

 

tim walker story teller

cess-tilda-swinton-tim-walker-las-pozas-02-rick-owens

tim walker, tilda swinton & rick owens, w magazine

vogue uk, december 2011, tim walker, mongolia

lady gray, tim walker, vogue italia, march, 2010

lady grey

vogue italia march 2011 , dreaming of another world

like a warrior, vohie italia, march 2014

dress lamp tree, vogue l’uomo, 2012 /haljine koje rastu na drvecu… zenski san

the lost explorer, 2010, rediteljski debi tim walkera

i think that the lost explorer is all about film – moving film. as a photographer i think that the two meaningful books are pictures and story teller. but then, as a filmmaker, there’s a totally different process because you’re working with a complete story. when you work as a photographer you’re working more with a mood and with a suggestion of something that enables the viewer to be able to put themselves in to the picture and imagine themselves in that situation: that’s what i think the human element in still photography is. with film you have to be a storyteller and not stray from the story; you have to be very, very specific – that’s what that film was about. (tim walker)

njegova knjiga storyteller

tim walker (1970) ključne reči:

– magično

– bajkovito

– nadrealno

– duhovito

– razigrano

– autentično

– neobično

– bizarno

– čudesno

– strastveno

– pomaknuto

– drugačije

 

vogue italia, october 2011, mechanical dolls

tim walker – floating drive in, florida, 2005

i find the word ‘art’ a little bit self-congratulatory and i find it uncomfortable: i’m a photographer. art isn’t decided at the moment it’s made – a lot of people would disagree with me, but i think time decides what art is. the most unlikely things become art. for me to say, ‘this is art photography,’ i’m just not that sort of person; this is photography, this is me playing with a camera. call it what you will but i would call it photography.

everyone’s talking about things as art and i think time decides. so I can’t answer that – i think time answers that, or we’ll answer that in the passage of time. i think some photographers have become art, someone like dianne arbus, because time has passed and there’s an emotion she’s captured as a photographer. you can call her a photographer but you can also call her an artist. but she would never have called herself an artist. avedon would never have called himself an artist. (tim walker)

cecil beaton, njegov uzor

marilyn monroe, photo by cecil beaton

tim walker, portrait by alison tanner